[jemolian]

Niacinamide is the latest hyped up ingredient after ceramides & centella, so i’m not surprised that the percentage is that high anymore, in fact Paula’s Choice as a 20% product. To be honest you don’t need that high topically, you can find some tests for them normally at 5% or less for some of the effect people might normally look for. 

In terms of oral vs topical what effects are you looking to achieve? Because for acne, some people might be eating high doses of pantothenic acid (B5) instead. For B3 or it’s related forms, they might be eating them for anti aging / longevity purposes as they might find it cheaper or similar in terms of effects compared to NR or NMN. 

[jemolian]

Perhaps at that percentage of acids, they hadn’t had any complains regarding irritation. Normally an anti-irritation ingredient is added to reduce the irritation or perhaps the redness, to provide some soothing to the skin. For my own acids even if it’s a low percentage version, i’d normally add one.  

[jemolian]

I’ve not used e-waxes in a long time but have you considered changing your preservative since it might cause instability for some emulsifiers? 

[jemolian]

You can check the formulation guidelines, personally I prefer to add vitamin c types during the cool down. Some derivatives can withstand short periods of heating but there’s not much point in heating them really.

[jemolian]

I believe they actually used the suggested co-emulsifier stated on the PDF. I couldn’t find it. So didn’t continue with it further at that time.

[jemolian]

Unfortunately I’ve not looked too much into the co-emsulsifiers yet to give you an accurate answer.

[jemolian]

Sodium chloride or other salts should stabilize it if you intend not to use a co-emulsifier. They should have the salts included in some of the sample formulas. 

[jemolian]

It looks fine. I think you will still need to use the salt as a stabilizer or a co-emulsifier. It won’t be stable by itself unfortunately. 

[jemolian]

What ingredients do you intend to use with it? Or perhaps you can look into duping the cicaplast. I’ve been intending to do that but it’s not my priority at the moment. 

[jemolian]

Yup, no xanthan. I tested with Sepinov EMT 10 & Sepimax Zen. You should be able to thicken with the oil based thickeners normally, so just that the water based ones won’t be compatible. You can refer to products like the LRP Cicaplast Baume B5, or to the sample formulations in the PDFs. Remember to download in case i move it. 

[jemolian]

Reconfigured as below:

Phase A
7% almond oil
7% olive oil unsaponifiables
3% cetyl alcohol
1% sorbitan stearate

Phase B
64.5% water
5% glycerin
0.3% xanthan gum
3% niacinamide
0.2% sodium phytate

Phase C
1% green tea extract
4% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
3% acetyl glucosamine 
1% Euxyl K903

Would recommend using a green tea liquid extract instead of the powder. If you prefer the powder, you might want to make it into a liquid and ensure that it’s not grainy. Yes, slurry the glycerin & xanthan.

If you are concerned about the almond oil, perhaps don’t heat & hold. If you prefer to heat & hold, perhaps you can add it before emulsification. 

 

[jemolian]

I have saved some of the PDFs and linked via my dropbox as below. You can download it for reference: 

• https://www.dropbox.com/s/vib2p9q7ghi1wde/DS_Abil_EM_90_e.pdf?dl=0
• https://www.dropbox.com/s/8bcn5fa0vc8d78u/ABIL_EM_90_DS_I0719.pdf?dl=0

Generally it’s an W/O emulsifier, somehow i find that the skin feel is slightly draggy. You won’t be able to use a water based thickener with it. 

[jemolian]

The Korean formulators like to do it this way but it’s mainly the Astragalus that is the water since it’s likely a Astragalus water but they had called / registered it as an extract. 

Perhaps in terms of “essence” wise, it’s normally a water product that has a high percentage of an extract or filtrate, though normally filtrate like ferments. An “essence” can be used in the toner / essence step in the Korean multi step routine. 

[jemolian]

If my guess of your “PEG 6 CAPRYLIC CAPRIC TRIGLICERID” is the same as what i think it is, then based on my experience, it dried my skin slightly. I’ve not tried the others you have mentioned. 

[jemolian]

From the results on ulprospector there are some blends, but i didn’t manage to find any when googling, so i’ll probably buy the Phenethyl alcohol separately. 

I’ve tested with the Phenylpropanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin from Making Cosmetics, the fragance wise i’m fine with it but if when using plant oils, you won’t be able to smell it anymore. Not sure if Phenethyl alcohol will be the overwhelmed by plant oils. Also Phenylpropanol make my skin tingle, not sure if Phenethyl alcohol would. I’m hoping not. If not i would have to stick to PE 9010 and perhaps use a booster. 

[jemolian]

How about Phenylpropanol or Phenetyl Alcohol? Though both has a rose fragrance to it. I believe Phenylpropanol is lighter in terms of fragrance based on the comments here:
https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/comment/39535#Comment_39535

[jemolian]

I’d say it depends on the type of ingredient you are intending to aid the penetration. You might be able to find a test online. For example, for Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Glycerin is only second to Propylene Glycol. It depends if you want to have the additional benefits of glycols or diols in your formulation as well. 

[jemolian]

I believe they are edible, if they are food grade. Not sure what you are comparing? 

[jemolian]

I think it’s fine if you split it this way. Remember to try on different skin types, perhaps the people with dry skin might not have the “gloss” issue or a lessened version of it.

I don’t think i’ve seen you mentioned about the split sales though, haha.  

[jemolian]

It depends on the demographic you are marketing to.

If you are marketing to the Koreans, they are fine with the slightly glossy or so called “dewy” look that is normally achieved with makeup. 

For the rest, they might be more concerned about the “absorption”, as the look of the product on the skin might be part of the aspect of said “absorption”. Some people might also regard the “dewy” look as greasy. 

I’d say the only way is to ask the demographic, for example via reddit for their preference in the “finish” of the product. 

[jemolian]

Have you tried 3:2 for 202:68 + 0.6% to 0.8% Aristoflex?

Just thinking how it should go at at the moment. It’s the combo i’d try.  

[jemolian]

You will need to confirm the xanthan is compatible with the BTMS, though i’m not sure about the DuraQuench if it will be, if not you can try replacing it with a non-ionic liquid crystal emulsifier. 

What is the require or restriction for acneic skin anyway? Just curious. 

[jemolian]

@Pattsi there are some covered by this pdf here as i found it when searching for info on triglycerol 
http://www.scientificspectator.com/documents/personal%20care%20spectator/Glycerol%20a%20Moisturizer.pdf

For the PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin or Wilbride S-753, it’s more of a premium version of Glycerin with a less tacky skin feel, though it seems to boost the humectancy if in a higher humidity environment. It seems to have some additional interesting properties like inhibiting the absorption of lipid ingredients. 
http://www.nof.co.jp/cosmeticlounge/english/material/pdf/wilbride_s-753d_(leaflet).pdf

Haven’t tried the others so can’t comment too much on those. 

I think a mix of Gylcerin, Wilbride-s753 & Diglycerin would be a good experiment. 

[jemolian]

I’ll update again. I’ll only receive it in 2 weeks since it can only be sea shipped.  

Hope there will be a Diglycerin thread, perhaps you guys can order, repack and sell it  

[jemolian]

Thanks for the confirmation @helenhelen. I’ve ordered 100ml from China since it’s seems there’s only 1 repacker there. They do have triglycerol but based on the one of the paper i read recently, Glycerin has a better healing rate, followed by Diglycerin, though i can’t find much info on Triglycerol itself to determine how well it performs.