[jemolian]

Probably diamonds? or other gem stones, also sold on FSS.

Ingredients extracted from humans then treated for use, such as Human Fibroblast Conditioned Media (seen this in a Japanese product) or Adipose Derived Adult Stem Cell Conditioned Media (ingredient in the MLM brand, Jeunesse’s serum which is extracted from Human Fat)

[jemolian]

So far i’ve not come across any. Perhaps the only vague mention is this: Hydrating effects of moisturizer active compounds incorporated into hydrogels: in vivo assessment and comparison between devices https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/19250164/

What i’d recommend is to roughly reference the results from the manufacturer with other data from other ingredients. 

TBH, i won’t put too much hope into the moisturization of Aquaxyl since it seems at least to me it’s more of a booster for the growth of certain components of the skin then a strong humectant. 

[jemolian]

Aquaxyl is a humectant type and Xyliance is an emulsifier, so i’m not too sure how to compare the “moisture” effect. They can be used together but personally i feel that Aquaxyl isn’t that moisturizing perhaps compared to other humectants. 

[jemolian]

No, i won’t say middle-aged people, but mainly for people with dry or damaged skin. There’s no age group to ingredients, only the company decides it based on how they want to market it. If based on the ingredients, they don’t look like it’s skewed towards middle-age people. 

[jemolian]

Perhaps this is a common misunderstanding due to the term. 

“Oil-free” is mainly a marketing term, which generally only excludes ingredients that INCI has the word “oil” in them. Normally plant oils or essential oils, and sometimes fragrance oils. 

Other lipids like waxes, butters, esters, ceramides, are still not considered “oils” by naming. 

Lipid content that are in the PC product includes: Ethyl Macadamiate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Triethylhexanoin, Glyceryl Stearate, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol

If you are looking for lipid-free, look for a gel.

Are ingredients such as Ceramide, Cholesterol increasing acne for oily skin? 

It depends on the cause of your acne. Acne can be due to food / diet, hygiene, bacterial, hormonal, etc. 

Personally i don’t really consider breakouts as acne, however no one can really tell you how the ingredients would really react for your skin except by patch testing. 

The purpose of this product is to use moisturizers for oily people. But why use Ceramide, Cholesterol. Ceramide can also signal cells and cell membranes, stimulating lipid synthesis. I think it isn’t very good

The point of adding the Sk-Influx ceramide blend for oily skin people is mainly because some people have oily skin due to dryness or due to weakened skin barrier. So it makes some sense to use these ingredients. 

[jemolian]

For my moisturizer i’m already using Sepitonic M3 which contains minerals, so if i add any more electrolytes i’d have to change to another co-thickener and up the cost to perhaps Sepimax from Ultrez 20, haha. I don’t think there’s any issues if i just use the sodium phytate without other electrolytes.

[jemolian]

Probably because not many people looked into it i guess? But even with the sodium phytate, normally i don’t expect people to use more than 0.2% ? It would still have some moisturization or sebum regulating benefits at lower amounts. 

I’m interested to use it unfortunately it don’t go well with polymerics, which is why i’m using in inositol instead for similar benefits, less the chelating effect. 

[jemolian]

In terms of marketing benefits of sodium phytate, see here 
https://www.ulprospector.com/documents/1197592.pdf?bs=10735&b=332188&st=20&r=na&ind=personalcare

Other similar ingredients that have perhaps the similar benefits would be the materials made from rice bran, which can include inositol or perhaps phytic acid. 

[jemolian]

I don’t think liquid emollients would be very occlusive, perhaps you can consider butters, waxes, silicone crosspolymers, sterols, lanolin? Normally an ingredient that comes as a soft paste or harder texture would be perhaps more occlusive.

[jemolian]

I’ve not tried sorbitan stearate but actually with a formula made with 2% Montanov 202 + 1.5% Cetyl Alcohol, it should be reasonably stable on it’s own as a lotion. If not you can do 1:1:1 for Montanov 202, 68 & Cetyl if you prefer a thicker cream. 

Sometimes the type of gum can make the foaming worse, so you can perhaps reduce it or change it. 

Adding silicones or other alternatives would be fine as well. Perhaps 2% Dimethicone ? 

[jemolian]

I’ve tested Niacinamide for only a short time since i found that i’m allergic to it as it makes my skin itch but based on what others have mentioned here, they find that their pores looks smaller. I think i’ll leave it to the others to add opinions on the topical effects. 

[jemolian]

Niacinamide is the latest hyped up ingredient after ceramides & centella, so i’m not surprised that the percentage is that high anymore, in fact Paula’s Choice as a 20% product. To be honest you don’t need that high topically, you can find some tests for them normally at 5% or less for some of the effect people might normally look for. 

In terms of oral vs topical what effects are you looking to achieve? Because for acne, some people might be eating high doses of pantothenic acid (B5) instead. For B3 or it’s related forms, they might be eating them for anti aging / longevity purposes as they might find it cheaper or similar in terms of effects compared to NR or NMN. 

[jemolian]

Perhaps at that percentage of acids, they hadn’t had any complains regarding irritation. Normally an anti-irritation ingredient is added to reduce the irritation or perhaps the redness, to provide some soothing to the skin. For my own acids even if it’s a low percentage version, i’d normally add one.  

[jemolian]

I’ve not used e-waxes in a long time but have you considered changing your preservative since it might cause instability for some emulsifiers? 

[jemolian]

You can check the formulation guidelines, personally I prefer to add vitamin c types during the cool down. Some derivatives can withstand short periods of heating but there’s not much point in heating them really.

[jemolian]

I believe they actually used the suggested co-emulsifier stated on the PDF. I couldn’t find it. So didn’t continue with it further at that time.

[jemolian]

Unfortunately I’ve not looked too much into the co-emsulsifiers yet to give you an accurate answer.

[jemolian]

Sodium chloride or other salts should stabilize it if you intend not to use a co-emulsifier. They should have the salts included in some of the sample formulas. 

[jemolian]

It looks fine. I think you will still need to use the salt as a stabilizer or a co-emulsifier. It won’t be stable by itself unfortunately. 

[jemolian]

What ingredients do you intend to use with it? Or perhaps you can look into duping the cicaplast. I’ve been intending to do that but it’s not my priority at the moment. 

[jemolian]

Yup, no xanthan. I tested with Sepinov EMT 10 & Sepimax Zen. You should be able to thicken with the oil based thickeners normally, so just that the water based ones won’t be compatible. You can refer to products like the LRP Cicaplast Baume B5, or to the sample formulations in the PDFs. Remember to download in case i move it. 

[jemolian]

Reconfigured as below:

Phase A
7% almond oil
7% olive oil unsaponifiables
3% cetyl alcohol
1% sorbitan stearate

Phase B
64.5% water
5% glycerin
0.3% xanthan gum
3% niacinamide
0.2% sodium phytate

Phase C
1% green tea extract
4% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
3% acetyl glucosamine 
1% Euxyl K903

Would recommend using a green tea liquid extract instead of the powder. If you prefer the powder, you might want to make it into a liquid and ensure that it’s not grainy. Yes, slurry the glycerin & xanthan.

If you are concerned about the almond oil, perhaps don’t heat & hold. If you prefer to heat & hold, perhaps you can add it before emulsification. 

 

[jemolian]

I have saved some of the PDFs and linked via my dropbox as below. You can download it for reference: 

• https://www.dropbox.com/s/vib2p9q7ghi1wde/DS_Abil_EM_90_e.pdf?dl=0
• https://www.dropbox.com/s/8bcn5fa0vc8d78u/ABIL_EM_90_DS_I0719.pdf?dl=0

Generally it’s an W/O emulsifier, somehow i find that the skin feel is slightly draggy. You won’t be able to use a water based thickener with it. 

[jemolian]

The Korean formulators like to do it this way but it’s mainly the Astragalus that is the water since it’s likely a Astragalus water but they had called / registered it as an extract. 

Perhaps in terms of “essence” wise, it’s normally a water product that has a high percentage of an extract or filtrate, though normally filtrate like ferments. An “essence” can be used in the toner / essence step in the Korean multi step routine. 

[jemolian]

If my guess of your “PEG 6 CAPRYLIC CAPRIC TRIGLICERID” is the same as what i think it is, then based on my experience, it dried my skin slightly. I’ve not tried the others you have mentioned.