jemolian
Forum Replies Created
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Perhaps it’s possible, but i’ve not really done a side by side test to figure that out.
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@Graillotion it’s Hyacross from Bloomage, they manufacture various HAs and Polyglutamic acids. 0.5% to 1% should be sufficient.
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Just to give some more feedback to confuse you, lol.
For propylene glycol vs butylene glycol vs propanediol: Propanediol would be a “green” alternative to Propylene Glycol, in terms of solubilizing wise, more expensive in cost, and also seems to have lower irritation potential. For Butylene Glycol, the moisturization is very close, but in terms of Butylene Glycol vs the other two, the preservation boosting capabilities can be very different, besides from the potential skin feel differences. The choice of which glycol to use can largely depend on what you are looking for it to do.
For HA vs glycols, personally i’m not a big fan of normal HA since it (1M dalton ) doesn’t seems do anything much for me, my preference is the HA crosspolymer since i find that the performance is more significant in humid climates.
For Glycereth-26, i use it in my hand wash, somehow i find that it make my skin drier. Perhaps others would have another opinion with it. I do use Butylene glycol or Propanediol in the same formula depending on what i have more of, i find that they moisturize my hands roughly the same.
As what Graillotion has mentioned, i’d also recommend looking into the lipids and emulsifier you are using, so to increase spread and to reduce drag from that point. For my moisturizer, normally i don’t use any glycols if possible as they seem to irritate my face, though no issues for my hands or body.
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Perhaps you can try betaine or sorbitol if you are looking for milder ones.
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Always check with the reseller or repacker if they are from the same manufacturers to keep the material as consistent as possible. Some materials might have inconsistencies from batch to batch, so you will have to take note on that even if it’s from the same manufacturer.
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The order looks fine, though you will need to confirm if the grade of xanthan can be stable at that pH, if not most retail versions would also use HA, though it will require sometime to hydrate it fully. Just note that xanthan might be tacky.
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You can opt to use milder humectants if you can’t use the more water retaining types.
If not put the formula in a airless pump bottle or jar, squeeze the bottom lever or stopper to reduce the head space. At least with it, the moisture won’t go anywhere.
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Likelihood to be water evaporation. So you can think about what TheSocksTooBig has mentioned.
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When to add the ingredients depends on the context.
For example for the Polyquaternium-7, if it’s a cold process formula, add it to the water phase. If it’s a heat process formula, you can add it during the cool down phase.
For the Vit E, add it during the processing where the mixture is still liquid to ensure better dispersion. For example, if it’s a heated balm, add it while it’s still slightly warm so that it can be mixed in. If it’s a normal emulsion type formula where you have normal cool down phase below 40 degree Celsius, add it during that phase.
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Perhaps the reason could include the ionic nature so that the emulsion may be more stable? And also a potential powder skin feel provided?
Though depending on the storage condition, i’ve seen someone post on reddit that their Cerave smells fishy, perhaps due to the BTMS.
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Does this formula pill on its own or only after using the foundation? Have to tried either waiting for the cream to dry down before using the foundation or have to tried reducing the xanthan?
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@Abdullah you can download it from my dropbox link
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5f148d80ebw5df5/Sodium%20Phytate%5B1%5D.pdf?dl=0 -
Have you patch tested the other ingredients to see if they are the cause?
My skin is sensitive to some ingredients like some glycols and it seems i’m allergic to topical niacinamide since it gives me welts. I’ve no issues to those polymeric emulsifiers that you have tested with.
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Looking at the percentage of the thickeners it looks more like a cream, so you might want to work on that. Would also recommend a humectant if required.
Though you might want to define what you mean by “professional” in terms of the texture, skin feel, look of the end product you want.
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It depends on the ingredients of the blend. You might want to check the MSDS / SDS if it is possible to be stored at that temperature.
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Normally the procedure would be:
- Add the surfactants into the water, stir at a slow speed or RPM
- Slurry the Xanthan in Glycerin. Add the slurry into the surfactant/water
- Solubilize your lipid phase. Add the solubilized lipid into surfactant/water
- Add preservative
- Adjust pH
You are lacking the solubilizer for the shea and fragrance. If not you can use a PEG version of the Shea.
The procedure would vary depending on your ingredients.
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That would depend on the intended pH of the formula. If you are using lactic acid only as a pH buffer, that would be possible. If you are making an AHA serum with lactic acid as the main active, it won’t go with at least the Niacianmide, not sure about the other two.
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“Peeling” as in it made your skin peel or did it “pill” as in ball up?
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You can use most non-bodying or non-waxy emulsifiers, such as the 165 type or Cetearyl Glucoside or those that you have mentioned. Though just note the maximum lipid load and if they are able to be stable on their own or require a combination.
If you don’t want to use a normal emulsifier, you can choose to use the lubrizol pemulen series like TR-1 / TR-2 / EZ-4U. They would be able to suspend your lipids at a low percentage.
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I’m wondering how effective the Ceramides by CLR would be.
In terms of comparing the ingredients:
SK-Influx: 6% lipids
- 1.5% Ceramide complex
(Ceramides I, III, IIIB, VI) - 0.5% Cholesterol
- 3.5% Free fatty acid
- 0.5% Phytosphingosine
Ceramides by CLR: 2% lipids
- Phospholipids
- Sphingolipids (approx 0.2%) (The plant derived lipid mixture consists of at least 10 % sphingolipids (ceramides, glycoceramides = cerebrosides).)
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Seems that Sphingolipids from the Ceramides by CLR would include the whole group of lipids which will be unspecific, verse the specific blend of SK-Influx.
I’m wondering where the free fatty acids came from though.
- 1.5% Ceramide complex
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Perhaps look into your processing method. Use low shear at a slower speed for dispersing and mixing instead of your hand blender. Perhaps use a whisk.
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It depends on what you mean by “poor absorption”. Normally you just need to adjust the skin feel. Perhaps you can reduce the percentage of fatty alcohols.
@Pattsi i’d assume U20 is Ultrez 20.
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If you have watched the IPCS video, looking at your formula:
You lack a main emulsifier. You can see if there’s any that are certified organic but it’s likely that you will find something that is ecocert or cosmos, which are normally natural derived. Using too much GMS / Glyceryl stearate can lead to the microfoaming, especially with the xanthan gum.
Would recommend reevaluating you preservative to make it broad spectrum as well.
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It goes back to the emulsification system.
So are you asking if statistically if there are more W/O emulsifiers that enables formulation with a smaller water phase compared to oil phase, verse larger water phase compared to oil phase?
Because not forgetting, even if there are more emulsifiers that of either one, it’s up to a formulator to choose which one they want to use and it can skewed towards one end because of certain reasons, so there are 2 factors to your thought.