Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Order of ingredients

  • Order of ingredients

    Posted by crillz on February 2, 2021 at 9:39 am

    Am making a shampoo and have trialled a few different ways for slightly different results. I am wondering if you guys could help me with the order of process. My ingredients are as follows.

    Water                                    56.4%
    Sodium Lauroamphoacetate  10%
    Decyl Glucoside                    10%
    Cocamidopropyl Betaine        10%
    Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate      5%
    Glycerin                                  5%
    Xanthan Gum                         1%

    Shea Butter                            1% (I realise people wont like this)
    Preservative                           1%
    Fragrance                               0.3%
    Citric Acid                              0.3%

    Now I was told to put the surfactants in the water before adding the xanthan gum so it can hydrate all the parts of water. I was also told to add the Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate last out of everything (maybe to prevent bubbles? not sure). I have also seen people put the citric acid in at different times also. I originally just thought it goes in last to adjust the pH then, but have seen it go in beforehand sometimes. I have tried a few different ways but was wondering if you guys could point me in the correct procedure. Cheers.

    Another thing, perhaps I should use a new thread for but for those that have used Cocamide MEA flakes, I’m thinking of getting some. Will that work sufficiently enough at say 3% to thicken a shampoo without having to use gums or anything. Have never worked with it and thought I’d ask before buying.

    crillz replied 3 years, 4 months ago 2 Members · 2 Replies
  • 2 Replies
  • jemolian

    February 3, 2021 at 5:33 am

    Normally the procedure would be: 

    1. Add the surfactants into the water, stir at a slow speed or RPM
    2. Slurry the Xanthan in Glycerin. Add the slurry into the surfactant/water
    3. Solubilize your lipid phase. Add the solubilized lipid into surfactant/water
    4. Add preservative
    5. Adjust pH

    You are lacking the solubilizer for the shea and fragrance. If not you can use a PEG version of the Shea. 

    The procedure would vary depending on your ingredients. 

  • crillz

    February 3, 2021 at 7:33 am

    Thanks jemolian, will trial this way.

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