Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Skin Few minutes of irritation with Polymeric emulsifiers & thickeners

  • Few minutes of irritation with Polymeric emulsifiers & thickeners

    Posted by Learntounlearn on February 12, 2021 at 2:22 pm

    I prepared different cream gels using either lecigel (1.2-1.5%) or sepinov emt 10 (1%). In all these formulations I added sepimax zen (0.5 to 1%) towards the end for additional thickness.
    Oil phase not more than 2%.

    Immediately after making cream gel if I apply over my skin I feel this tingling and urge to itch kind of feeling. However, it goes away after a few minutes. 

    I apply these preparations few days after making them and my skin doesn’t react the same way. Although I still get a little tingling.

    So my question if polymeric emulsifiers are used in a formula (with no other emulsifiers or thickeners)  then should the preparation be not used immediately and left for few days?

    jemolian replied 3 years, 4 months ago 6 Members · 8 Replies
  • 8 Replies
  • OldPerry

    February 12, 2021 at 4:00 pm

    You’ll need to list all the ingredients in your formula if you want any helpful answers. With the information you provided the best answer I can give is…maybe.

  • Learntounlearn

    February 12, 2021 at 5:37 pm

    Here are the formulas:

    Water 83.878
    Niacinamide 5.000
    Propylene glycol 3.000
    MSM 3.000
    Sepimax zen 1.500
    Sepinov emt 10 1.000
    Licorice extract 0.500
    Phenoxyethanol + EHG(Euxyl PE 9010) 1.000
    Tamanu oil (refined)  1.00

    With lecigel

    Water 68.700
    HA 10.000
    Niacinamide 6.000
    Propylene glycol  4.000
    NAG 2.50
    C12-15 Alkane 1.000
    Lecigel 1.500
    Squalene 3.000
    Ceterayl alcohol 1.500
    PE +EHG 1.000
    Sepimax Zen 0.500

    Used it before adding Sepimax zen and I felt the same-the urge to itch that persisted for few minutes

    Also my skin is not sensitive to actives. Prepared the first formula with only sclerotium gum and didn’t have any such issues

  • chemicalmatt

    February 12, 2021 at 10:00 pm

    With 6% niacinamide I don’t see how your skin would not itch no matter what thickener was employed. I know that mine would. Are you sure you are “not sensitive to actives”?

  • OldPerry

    February 12, 2021 at 11:07 pm

    Agreed @chemicalmatt .  And Phenoxyethanol is known to cause skin problems at a high level too.  Also, pH can be a factor. The fact that you didn’t experience any problems previously may or may not mean that you won’t have problems in the future.  Multiple exposures to a high level of niacinamide may have caused sensitivity.

    It’s unlikely SEPIMAX ZEN is the problem.  However, everyone’s skin is different so it’s possible.

  • JOJO91343

    February 13, 2021 at 7:45 am

    Regarding the formulas you provided.  One of them has Tamanu Oil (Refined) and the other one doesn’t have Tamanu Oil which one of them did you get the tingling and the urge to itch?.  I passed by this link concerning Tamanu Oil (refined) Skin Irritation:

  • Thota

    February 14, 2021 at 4:41 pm

    Did the Lecigel one caused problem too?

  • Learntounlearn

    February 15, 2021 at 11:07 am

    @Thota yes, It did. However, when I used today which is after 5 days after making I didn’t feel the same urge to itch. This is not the first time I experienced this. That’s the reason I posted this question to know if polymeric emulsifiers such as sepinov and lecigel are to be left for a while after formulating. 
    @JOJO91343 the one without Tamanu too had the same issue. 

  • jemolian

    February 16, 2021 at 3:33 am

    Have you patch tested the other ingredients to see if they are the cause? 

    My skin is sensitive to some ingredients like some glycols and it seems i’m allergic to topical niacinamide since it gives me welts. I’ve no issues to those polymeric emulsifiers that you have tested with. 

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