jemolian
Forum Replies Created
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Tremella is quite the premium humectant to use, so i’d recommend adding it only as a small percentage as a label claim ingredient unless you are using it in a higher percentage for specific purposes.
Based on patch testing at 0.1% or 0.2% powder (can’t really recall the actual amount), in the short term, i didn’t seem to do much for my skin.
You can take a look at my dropbox folder to see if you find anything interesting since there are some data from different manufacturers. You can download it to keep them in case i move them away in the future. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/kipeuwo1k67wi9y/AACm5tZN1Lx2nwaQvYE4Z8Voa?dl=0
Mine is the powder version from Shanghai Huiwen.
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One weird question i’ve seen lately on reddit is: Do i need to buffer with another product if i’m using a product that is of a specific pH?
Let’s say for example if they used a saponified / soap cleanser, then want to use a Ascorbic Acid serum. Do people need to use a pH balance toner before using the serum?
I’ve seen some people asking if they can find a low pH toner for that “purpose”.
Another basic question i guess will include: How long should people wait after low pH products (example chemical exfoliants, Ascorbic Acid) before moving on to the next product for them to be effective.
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Heating, or increasing the pH (>pH
of wetted HEC hydrates it. Not sure if HPC is the same. -
@pepe ultrez 20 would be useful but you will have to make a small batch to test if it at least meets your expectations with your hand. Do also note that the viscosity for ultrez 20 may also be lower compared to other grades, so you will have to make some adjustments.
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@pepe it’s very likely the carbomer is breaking down due to the electrolytes on your hand. Was your hand sweaty? Have you tried washing your hands, drying it and try picking up the product again? It shouldn’t happen if you use a plastic spatula.
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@Graillotion xanthan gum would be a no go, perhaps you can try the sclerotium gum if you have it on hand but based on what is described the skin feel might be very similar. Though sclerotium gum would be more expensive.
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@Graillotion i’ve not tried HPC before, though do take a look at the viscosity that it can have because they might not reach what you might need unless you use a higher percentage. If comparing the specs on lotioncrafter, the viscosity at 1% for HPC vs HEC, HEC would be higher, 1500 - 3000 cps vs 3400-5000 cps.
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@Graillotion unfortunately the non-ionics. From the seppic range, only Solagum Tara but i find it stringy. Another one would be the common HEC.
Seppic brochure for reference. They listed the charge -> https://www.seppic.com/sites/seppic/files/2019/06/13/2019-seppic_index-beauty-care.pdf
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Just wondering, do you mean that it melts slightly and the product slides off your hand?
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@raiyana
Aristoflex AVC just has a very slight tack to it, so it depends on your sensory modifier that you choose sometimes. If not change a polymeric emulsifier if you find it intolerant. I’m in a humid country in SEA, so i have more issues with the glycerin compared to the Aristoflex AVC. I’m fine with using the Aristoflex at a higher percentage since i prefer how firm it is. My emulsions are fast spreading, so the tackiness is not particularly significant unless i layer 2 times or more.The Aristoflex AVC would help with co-emulsification since you can make emulsifier free gel creams with it, but the c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer would help with the water phase stabilization. Hard to say if the 165 would hold up or not.
If you prefer a matte finish on the skin, you might just want to try out Montanov 202 or other matte finish emulsifiers or additives.
For the c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer that you mentioned, you can’t replace it 1:1 since you have to see which grade you are using. You can try at 50% of AVC in water to check the viscosity if it reaches your expectations at the pH that you need.
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Normally the anionic ingredients. Some polymers / gelling agents are anionic, which i’d assume the polymer in Sepigel 305 to be.
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I’m not really fond of EOs or Fragrance oils in facial products since they can give me headaches from smelling them. I’d rather use them in rinse off body products in lower amounts.
There are people looking for EO / Fragrance free products since they are more prone to issues, so there’s a market for both.
@Graillotion
Luckily the bird nest extracts products are still more Asian prone and not trending in the west yet, but who knows.
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I’d assume one of the ingredients, perhaps the emulsifiers or Lecithin make the lipid phase white. It’s still a biphase because there are no water phase stabilizer. See this lysofix ingredient for example https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UHYA0jvfQs0
I guess anything can be a trend nowadays since biphase toners has been there for ages. Even now “foaming” toners are a thing
????
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Could you please elaborate on it, please? Which ingredients would not be in ‘effective range’, and effective in what terms? I am planning to keep the pH of the solution near to 3 (after L-ascorbic acid is added, that is).
What would be out of the pH range would be determined by the pH of your premade solution, which you have to make first. It’s not something that i can really give you an answer to. For example, your premade solution make require it to by pH 8 before adding the LAA, which the preservatives would no longer be effective if you intend to store it.
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Potentially it’s possible to make a pre-made solution then add the LAA later, but you’d need to make sure that the 15% LAA added would reach the pH range that you want. You will need to try out different percentages of TEA at different pH range. This would be the logical way to do it.
A few things: one of them being that the Tocopherol might not be fully solubilized with the Polysorbate for stability, which is something you need to observe. Another being that the ingredients would very likely not be in effective range in the pre-made solution, especially the preservatives. One more thing, i’d assume that the sodium lactate be mildly exfoliating at the pH 3+ range.
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@ozgirl supposedly a pinch is about 1/16 teaspoon, so it’s about 0.35g. I’d assume for EDTA, it’s workable up to a 1kg batch for a pinch?
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To be honest, i think using a whisk is still fine because we can be slightly short of budget or basic equipment at home. Using a milk frother is worse. :#
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Speaking about cooking, this kills me
Comments from the natural FB groups always does, so…
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I vaguely remember you talked about Sepimat quite some time ago with Pattsi & ngarayeva001. It didn’t work out?
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Have you tried xanthan gum? lol. Would a stringy look be part of your marketing? Because it’s not something that is particularly marketed. Normally this kind of stringy texture is used for marketing snail mucin or some premium polymers humectants like Polyglutamic Acid creams.
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@dell
Mainly because they would be washed off, so using a higher percentage would be a waste, more so with the Sodium PCA. They would still work best in a leave on product.You can reduce the Coco Glucoside as singhc10 suggested as well, besides from taking out the oils and Polysorbate. Personally i find that the Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate with Cocamidopropyl Betaine combination should work fine by themselves. You can adjust the ration accordingly based on your test. You can add them to a foaming bottle to test a small batch without needing to make a thickened batch everytime.
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You can try cutting out them out and test out different percentage of your basic surfactant mixture and see how it goes. It’s best to leave the oils in a leave on product if you really want to moisturize. You can also try reducing the glycerin and cutting out the sodium PCA as well.
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Perhaps if you took out the oils and thus the polysorbate, the result might be better with the lower amount of surfactants in general.
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5% Urea for the body & 3% Hydroxyethyl Urea (solids)
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If based on basic information on paper:
Besides from Urea normally being a solid and Hydroxyethyl Urea in liquid form, both can have their challenges since they can cause a drift in pH. This would be stated in the Hydrovance (Hydroxyethyl Urea) product brochure or TDS. That would probably be the main challenge if at all.If based on experience and observation:
Urea exfoliates me. For Hydroxyethyl Urea, based on the toner i made for my aunt, she hasn’t feedback anything regarding the issue for exfoliation. I haven’t tried it on myself at the moment.