Dirtnap1
Forum Replies Created
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I make a water based pomade and have a very stable formulation. My early formulations were close to what you listed.
I can’t help with accurate percentages, but try reducing water a little. Reduce PG down to 1% same with PEG-7 GC and Glycerin. Remove PEG-40 as the Tween 20 will do what you need for the fragrance. Add a little Ceteareth-30 if you have it available. Your humectants/solubilizers are going to reduce hold and make it “watery”.
Personally I would remove PEG-7 GC, Glycerin and PEG-40
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Which fixatives have you worked with? Would like a reference for a polymer that will not completely harden the hair like a typical gel, yet will give a flexible hold. Also humidity resistant is what I’m currently after.
Our clients have been asking for a product that will hold damp hair as soon as product is applied. Most fixatives I’ve used perform best with dry to slightly dry hair.
If hair is too damp the product thins out leaving flyaways until water evaporates enough to allow holding of the fixative.
What would you suggest for damp hair?
I currently use a small amount of Ceteareth 30 in our formula mixed with Ceteareth 20 as the base to give it the firm piling effect when scraped with the back of a finger nail. Much like Suavecito if you have played with that brand.
Simethicone- any leads on ordering small amounts to test? -
Is it Peg 12 Dimethicone by chance?
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I’d love to see the formula. Would like to try my hand at one of these for some family members (I don’t shave). Coconut oil can be drying with its Lauric acid content, especially depends on the skin type you have. I personally have very oily skin.
I’m not an oil expert, or expert by any means, but if you can find one with high lipid content you will be good I assume. -
polyquaternium-7 may help thicken the base. I made that mistake on my own with a shampoo I was mixing. Added 8oz polyquaternium-7 to 2gal base and it thickened considerably.
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Peg-8 is best used for water based formulas. Regular beeswax for oil based as it will not wash out easy otherwise. Both pretty much same “hold” factor.
May want to try some of the polymer fixatives.
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That’s awful.
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You are correct. Mixing will not break down and homogonize as a high speed/sheer mixer/blades do.
Mixing will keep product in suspension and help with hot spots etc.
Homogonizing will form the emulsion (if making emulsion) and blends the ingredients together.
Really depends on your formula(s) weather or not you need to homogonize or simply mix.
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Koster Keunen carries Cera Bellina. They are in the USA, not sure of anyone outside the US.
C32-36 Isoalkyl Stearate will also give a smooth creamy consistancy. Lanolin wax sub.
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Reduce Cet25 and add 2% PVP Increase water to about 60%
The formula you listed shouldn’t be THAT thick with the amount of PG and Peg-7 you’ve listed. Do you Q.S. Water to 100%
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Without tween 20 it was too thick? Now introducing tween 20 it is too thin?
What is the purpose for addition of tween 20 when you have Peg 40 HCO as a solubilizer?I’ve never used Gelmaker, is there an INCI for the specific ingredient?
You can try increasing the wax phase 10% and see if it helps to thicken.
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Are you making a hydrous or anhydrous product?
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What are you using to measure the pH? What temps? After cure or while still hot?
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How are you measuring pH? pH of the water part or pH of final product?
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Will depend a lot on desired thickness and clarity. So you would have to play with it. >6 less clarity but a bit more hold. <6 more clarity, slightly less hold.
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Of course- I always recommend Maxant https://www.maxantindustries.com/bottling.html
Honey Industry equipment, but can be used just the same in cosmetics. Jacketed tanks give even temps, not direct hot spots etc. They do take a while to cool if you need to cool the entire tank. Or you can dispense into smaller single walled tanks for cooling. They are in the USA.
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Fixate Plus (Lubrizol) will thicken the base when properly pH’ed. Along with carbomer, should thicken to where you can stand a spoon in the solution.
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Stainless water jacketed tanks for me. Simple drill mixers with various blades depending on formula.
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My guess this is on small scale formulations, correct? No real way of avoiding it. Bottom filling with larger batches will alleviate most bubbles. Large batches will also have foam/bubbles which form on the surface during heating and agitation.
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Because we have Google and online calculators.
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It’s going to depend on your formula and the characteristics you are looking for. Obviously you do not want to go into the high end as it will negatively affect hold. So I would start with .2-.5% up to 1%
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Try adding very minimal amounts of glycerin, C12-15, and add some Peg-40HCO and dimethicone, should help with flaking.
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I don’t believe I have had any flaking from Cet-25 with my formulas. However, when I added above 1% PVP it would tend to flake a bit if hair was combed/disturbed etc.
Only way to test would be try Cet-20 or 30 and compare using exact formula.
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Most likely due to the higher amount of PVP. Is that the only thickener/fixative you have on hand?
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Lab,
What did you use for web effect? I’m assuming PEG-90M? May I ask what you also used to mattify the hydrous formulations?