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  • Cosmetic_Chemist

    Member
    December 3, 2021 at 2:56 pm in reply to: What actually constitutes the IP of a formulation?

    We usually do not share the suppliers but we do include trade names with the INCI so that they know which ingredients were a blend. 

    I think it can be as much detail as you want or as little detail you want to provide. As long as they have enough information to recreate the product. 

    You can send them just the formula, INCI, spec sheets and manufacturing procedure and call it a day. 

  • Cosmetic_Chemist

    Member
    December 3, 2021 at 2:42 pm in reply to: Amount of microbes in a cosmetic product

    When a lab carries out your test, they count the number of colony-forming units on the petri dish. They give you the results of the number of colony-forming units, for the number of grams or millilitres of test material that they put on the petri dish.

    so 10^6 cfu/g means 10^6 colony forming units per gram of your sample. You would be able to see the colonies but might not be able to manually count each individual one because there are so many. 

    As for safety, it depends on what the product is but for cosmetics generally <500 cfu/ml or the equivalent in cfu/g is considered acceptable. 

    It is difficult to assess the maximum microbe growth in a formulation without a preservative because there are so many variables like the formulation itself (does it contain water or probiotics etc), the environments its in and any contamination that could have occurred.

    My advice would be to NEVER skip the preservative!! There are thousands of preservatives out there that you can pick and choose from to suit your formulation and any claims you make. 

    Preservatives ensure consumer safety and increase the products shelf-life by helping inhibit the growth of microorganisms inadvertently introduced into the product during the manufacturing process or during consumer use.  Without preservation, cosmetics containing water, would only last two weeks and microorganism contamination of yeast, mold, bacteria and fungus could cause skin irritation, allergic reactions, infections and more.
     

  • Cosmetic_Chemist

    Member
    December 3, 2021 at 2:13 pm in reply to: Probiotics and Postbiotics in Skincare

    Pharma said:

    Do you know Estée Lauder’s Advanced Night Repair Serum?
    It’s one of the first well known products containing ferments which are now hyped as ‘postbiotics’… I guess that back in the day when they launched it, this term hasn’t even been invented yet ;) .

    Yes, I have seen that around the market.

    It is quite expensive, i think its $130. 

  • Cosmetic_Chemist

    Member
    December 2, 2021 at 7:41 pm in reply to: Probiotics and Postbiotics in Skincare

    PhilGeis said:

    Probiotic survival at titer is a major issue for any application.  In a (preserved) cosmetic, it’s problematic.
    Advantage?  Assuming yoy’ll not pusruse some measyrable endpoint - sales hype.

    Thank You! 
    I am leaning more towards postbiotics for ease of formulating. 

  • Cosmetic_Chemist

    Member
    November 19, 2021 at 2:13 pm in reply to: URGENT!! BODY WASH - Stringy

    ozgirl said:

    There is nothing that stands out as causing the stringy behaviour.
    Are you using Iselux Mild?
    If you gave the percentage of each of the raw materials this might help identify the cause.
    You could try removing the glycerin and essential oils to see if these are the cause of the issue.

    Yes i am using iselux mild at around 20%.

    I am also adding salicylic acid 1% in propylene glycol. could that be the cause?

  • Cosmetic_Chemist

    Member
    November 18, 2021 at 8:45 pm in reply to: URGENT!! BODY WASH - Stringy

    Syl said:

    How are you tickening your body wash? Why are you using similar surfactants like Lauryl Glucoside and Coco-glucoside?  What is your total surfactant concentration?

    Cocamidopropyl betaine is the thickener. The surfactants are a blend and are in at 20% in total. 

  • Cosmetic_Chemist

    Member
    November 16, 2021 at 2:57 pm in reply to: Melt and Pour Shampoo Bar Formulation

    ozgirl said:

    Colonial have a few starting formulations that might be of interest

    Thank you!! 

  • Cosmetic_Chemist

    Member
    November 16, 2021 at 2:51 am in reply to: Body Wash with Salicylic Acid

    Paprik said:

    Your essential oils can “destroy” your viscosity. What’s the % input of them?

    Also, do not forget to add an antioxidant for your essential oils. 

    Does the formula thicken by itself when you have Taurate and Cocamidopropyl betaine and Isethionate present? Or after adjusting pH to 5 - 6?

    Do you add any salt to it? 

    What’s the active matter of each ingredients in your formula?

    Lauryl Glucoside also causes loss of viscosity sometimes. Try it without. 

    You can try to dissolve SA in Propanediol. (Propylene Glycol does thin out products)

    Phenoxyethanol by itself is not sufficient preservative (not “broad spectrum”)

    The essential oil is only at 0.2%. 

    The formula thickened before adjusting the pH. There is no salt in this.

    I cant remove lauryl glucoside because it is part of a blend of surfactants.

    i will try SA in propanediol, thank you!! 

  • Cosmetic_Chemist

    Member
    November 15, 2021 at 8:07 pm in reply to: Body Wash with Salicylic Acid

    Perry said:

    You’ll need to post all the ingredients in your formula to get any good suggestions. Because if propylene glycol is thinning it out you might need to make more significant changes to the formula.

    Aqua
    Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate
    Cocamidopropyl Betaine
    Sodium Methyl Oleoyl Taurate
    Lauryl Glucoside
    Coco-Glucoside
    Phenoxyethanol
    Glycerin
    Citric Acid
    Essential oils - For fragrance 

  • Cosmetic_Chemist

    Member
    November 15, 2021 at 6:58 pm in reply to: Body Wash with Salicylic Acid

    The customer I am developing this for wants to make such claims. I too usually avoid these situations. 

    I have salicylic acid in house in powder form. Any suggestions on the solvent i can use to dissolve it without altering the viscosity of the body wash?

  • Cosmetic_Chemist

    Member
    November 12, 2021 at 9:42 pm in reply to: Melt and Pour Shampoo Bar Formulation


    Thank you so much!

  • Cosmetic_Chemist

    Member
    November 12, 2021 at 9:42 pm in reply to: Stable Extract Blend with Glycerin Aloe Vera and Vitamin E

    Perry said:

    Quick answer - yes, polysorbate 20 should help.  See this.
    https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/5219/question-about-vitamin-e-solubility

    However, it may also help for you to understand why your blend wasn’t stable.  That’s because oils like Vitamin E is a non-polar molecule while Glycerin and most of the components of Aloe vera (98%+ water) are polar molecules.  Polar molecules are not generally compatible with non-polar molecules.  Basically, oil and water don’t mix.

    A surfactant like Polysorbate 20 is compatible with both oil and water. So, pretty much whenever you have a situation where you are trying to combine oil materials with watery materials, you’ll need a surfactant to make that happen.  

    Hi Perry, 
    Thank you for your reply. 

    I was hoping to add this extract blend to a variety of batches like liquid soaps, shampoos, conditioners etc. Would polysorbate 20 be the best surfactant to use in this case? 

    Do you have recommendations on any other surfactant or material I can add?

    Thank you!

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