Colorfuljulie
Forum Replies Created
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Have you tried adding more sodium stearate? Perhaps with a little silicone?
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In my past experience I have added my colorant into my water phase and proceeded as usual with my formula. I would start with 0.1% first and go up from there. 0.3% could be a little high depending on the porosity of the hair it’s applied to. That much is good for very brassy hair, but if the ends are very processed they will over-deposit the tone. Then the ends look violet and the gold midshaft looks even brassier. It’s better to formulate with less because the average consumer won’t apply it only to the areas that need toning. Hope this helps!
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The best blush (in my opinion) is obtained with a combination of iron oxides and micas. Think of iron oxides as paint - flat and opaque. Micas are sheer and reflective. Blends of micas and oxides are more highly pigmented with the reflective quality that is more on trend at the moment. Blush is usually more sheer than opaque (so less iron oxides or titanium dioxide). The easiest way to create a beautiful blush is to use a preblended mica that is a combination of mica and oxides as your colorant in your formula. I don’t think using only oxides would make the most flattering shades of blush. May I ask why you want to avoid FD&C colorants? This is just what I’ve experienced in my blush adventures. I’m not a professional formulator by any means though!
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Yes you would need to make your fragrance concentrate first and then test it with different solubilizers.
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How are you pressing them? With an arbor press and plates? Are you pressing a larger number of pans at once than before? Or the same? Usually matte shadows will become too hard so that’s unusual. I would include some sort of oil as your wet binder along with your preservative. Silicones work well for me. You would probably have to change the rest of your formula though to increase your fillers so they loosen up a bit though. If you post your formula perhaps I would have some suggestions of things to try. I would fix my A/C or buy a dehumidifier to run constantly in the closed room where they’re being produced. I’m in Texas on the Gulf and a dehumidifier can be a lifesaver! Can’t make a bath bomb without one?! You may also try pressing them in multiple layers. Also if you have purchased pans from a different supplier but use the same pressing tiles, the new pans could be a tiny bit larger making the edges remain unpressed. That happened to me once, and the tiny amount of difference made pressing a pain in the butt. I had to press one at a time and move the tile the minute amount around the edges of the pan before each press. Not conducive to making large quantities! If you buy your pans in bulk from the same supplier always, but you bought more tiles it could be the same problem in reverse.
There are so many methods of pressing them yourself you may want to post your method also. I usually use 99% alcohol to wet and mix my matte formula then allow to dry out completely before pressing. Even tiny pockets of unmixed pigments in a matte formulation can result in an unevenly pressed cake! I’m not a pro chemist- I’m just someone who makes almost all of my own makeup and sells some in my salon, so you may listen to what the pros here have to say. Hope this gives you some things to consider and your large order goes out in time. ??
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Matte shadows do not need as much of the dry binders as the shimmery ones do. Use less of the zinc stearate/magnesium stearate and more silica ms’s or nylon 12. The iron oxides stick together well, so adding too much binders make them form a hard cake. Also may need to reduce the liquid binders some.
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Use it as you would beeswax- they’re similar. As for the amount, that will depend on your formula and desired result. Best way is to just experiment!
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In my 26 years as a hairdresser and an educator for professional colorists, I can tell you with certainty that the majority of stylists believe marketing is science. I think it was Pureology (around 15-20 years ago) that first came out with a marketing story linking sulfates to color fading that really took off. If an educator comes into your salon and says sulfates make color fade, then that’s science based facts?. And their brand took off so quickly that there were soon many others. Once a trend like that hits the mass retailers and clients are seeing the same marketing claim everywhere, everyone in the hair world seems to just accept it and the word spreads like gospel. So I don’t think there was much science anywhere, just testing done by biased manufacturers to support claims.
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I don’t think that link has the correct LOI. It shows the Gliss conditioner, but looks like it has listed a shampoo’s ingredients (and IPM is not on the list).
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On the talcum powder issue and for a good chuckle- My grandmother had pica from an iron deficiency (where you crave weird things you shouldn’t eat) and ate baby powder for the whole 15years of my life she was alive. And it had to be J&J! She’d get mad if you got the kind with cornstarch ?. She was only 4’ 9” and would use her cane to knock it off the top shelf and would toss handfuls of it in her mouth at a time. All Day Long Every Single Day!! And she lived to be almost 80 years old! So I think it’s hard to say that 20 years of baby powder causes cancer - I’m sure that person did a lot of other things everyday for that 20 years too! But sadly enough- sensationalism does sell ☹️
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I remember reading a post on SwiftCraftyMonkeys blog talking about the 100x aloe extract (powder) causing shampoo bars to soften. Maybe it’s the type of aloe extract you are using?
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Formulator Sample Shop has a base called Silderm Formulating base that is pretty easy to add water based actives and a preservative to. Maybe that would be a simple place to start? I’ve used it to make an eyeshadow primer and a face/makeup primer that I’ve really enjoyed. Good luck and have fun formulating!
(INCI: Cyclopentasiloxane & Dimethicone & Cyclohexasiloxane & Isohexadecane & Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate & Tocopheryl Acetate & Polysorbate 20 & Polysorbate 80) -
You would get more help if you let everyone know which country you are in and what type of application you are using the wax for.
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@Gunther ? ewwww! I try and tell everyone that natural is NOT always better! ??
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Carbomer is used to make gels, but I’m not aware of its use in a hairspray for hold. I don’t think it would give you what you are looking for. You need to research some polymers and test some to see what type of hold you are looking for. PVP and VP/VA copolymers (and a few others) are pretty inexpensive and work well in spray form. (Makingcosmetics has them in small amounts if you want to experiment!) Silicones could go either way- some people think they are not “natural” enough, although if you’re making a spray with shine or frizz control claims silicones are a good way to go. I’m not big on “natural” hair products because of the performance gap. I always choose the ingredient that performs over anything else. I haven’t used PDM 20, but it seems like it may be similar to phenyl trimethicone available at Lotioncrafter and waaayyyy less expensive! I use it in a leave in conditioner spray and it makes a great deal of shine at .5% while still being light enough for very fine hair. I’m on the Texas Gulf Coast and fine hair has a serious love/hate relationship with silicones!
As far as alcohol, I don’t think it’s legal to sell products with drinking alcohol in them, but I could be wrong. This is why you see denatured alcohol in beauty products. If it’s only for personal use, then Everclear is a pretty cheap and easy way to use alcohol in your products though!
How many private label companies have you researched for a hairspray? It’s crazy that you can’t find one! It does seem the best way to go if you could find one you could private label and then only have to get your fragrance right.
Maybe someone with more knowledge will chime in to help you. There are so many generous minds here, and I’m sure they know a lot more than I do!
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Sometimes I think I’m reading posts just to see what @Belassi will say?.
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There are Facebook groups for redheads- you may be able to start there. Joining some and researching what and where they shop (not polling them in their group or you will probably get kicked out quickly!). But you can learn a lot about groups of people by stalking, I mean reading discussions, on FB! ? I know there are also redhead conventions in many different countries- maybe you can tap into those somehow to get some market research from the fairest of them all!
And for my 2 cents, I can’t stand the smell of coconut?
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Which product are you trying to replicate?
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@doreen ???
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You could make the simplest formula and remove everything but the vitamin e oil! I have always used straight vit e on mine and they heal perfectly! Or use the one you already have made.
If you are not sure if you can replace petroleum jelly with rosemary extract or D&C Green 6, then perhaps you should study more about your ingredients first and not experiment with a complicated formula(especially on a fresh tattoo to see if it works! ) I’m not an expert by any means. Just suggesting that if you did a little research on your own first, you would probably get more meaningful input from some of the talented chemists here!
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I’ve used Silica Dimethyl Silylate to thicken several oils and keep it clear. I’m not a chemist, so I could be way off! I don’t know it’s alcohol tolerance though. I just used it to thicken a hair oil serum yesterday and it worked well for that!
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How much oatmeal are you using? I was reading another thread not long ago where someone said how much you can realistically add to an emulsion, and it was WAY below what is recommended on some of the websites retailing small amounts of the raw materials. Making Cosmetics says typical use is 5-30%? Products from Aveeno have only marketing claims levels (.1% or so). Doreen actually made the comment in the thread that if you use too much your lotion will turn to dough! Not sure how to link to a thread, but if you search “colloidal oatmeal/Avena Sativa in skincare” you should find it easily! I’m not a chemist by any means, just someone who has read almost every comment in this forum?.
If it’s not the oatmeal, you should post your entire formula and you will prob get some help.
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Have tried a simple Google search? There are lots of free formulas available. Find one you like, experiment with it, then come back here for suggestions when you get stuck on the changes you want to make. Good luck!
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I think most peeling masks use polyvinyl alcohol. Going more of the clay mask route seems to be simpler for a beginner formulator. There are lots of formulas available for clay masks on the internet. I don’t make masks though, so I’m sure an expert will chime in if I’m wrong! I do make hair products, and there are lots of fun things to do with carbomer there if you get tired of masks?
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Yes as Chemist77 said?. I love the “powered by a blend of essential oils to nourish and cleanse your hair, rather than harsh detergents and chemicals that will strip and erode it.” So the magical EO’s cleanse the hair, and surfactants are just a bunch of coconuts
