Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Eyeshadow formula advise

  • Eyeshadow formula advise

    Posted by Tlynch03 on June 24, 2019 at 1:28 pm

    Hello out there. I have created a formula for pressed matte eyeshadows and they are luxurious and perform well…except for one thing…they are not finger swatchable! They build a film very quickly. I can correct it by adding silica microspheres, however, if I add the right amount to correct it, then my shadows become too powdery. I use

    Pigment (oxides or ultramarines)
    Boron nitride
    Talc or nylon 12
    Dimethicone 350
    Isopropyl myristate 
    Zinc stearate or magnesium stearate 
    Silica microspheres

    This problem does not happen with my shimmers and metallics. Any advise would be greatly appreciated! 

    Tlynch03 replied 4 years, 2 months ago 2 Members · 2 Replies
  • 2 Replies
  • Colorfuljulie

    July 2, 2019 at 11:16 pm

    Matte shadows do not need as much of the dry binders as the shimmery ones do. Use less of the zinc stearate/magnesium stearate and more silica ms’s or nylon 12. The iron oxides stick together well, so adding too much binders make them form a hard cake. Also may need to reduce the liquid binders some. 

  • Tlynch03

    July 3, 2019 at 12:42 am

    Thank you for the advise…I will give that a try. I originally added silica ms’s until it went away, but then the shadows got quite dusty. I also reduced the liquid binder as well. I’m thinking 3% for the dry binder should do it since that would be half.

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