Forum Replies Created

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  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    February 14, 2020 at 5:12 pm in reply to: glyceryl stearate citrate vs sodium stearoyl glutamate

    Go with the Na stearoyl glutamate.  A little goes a long way in emulsifying and sensorial outcome is better. Both are weirdly expensive though. 

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    February 14, 2020 at 5:09 pm in reply to: Free vs Bound Water

    The term free water may be misleading, since Aw (water activity) is a factor of all constituents involved with or interacting with the water present. I always use the term “bound water” to mean the hydrate - or water molecules - actually inherent in the material itself.  E.G. Borax decahydrate has 10 moles bound water.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    February 14, 2020 at 4:29 pm in reply to: Solubilisation conundrum

    Tendo, you should be able to obtain Polysorbate 80 (FG - food grade) In Kampala from a food ingredient supply house.  Try that. Otherwise lecithin may be a long shot here.  Good luck!

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    February 14, 2020 at 4:27 pm in reply to: Choice of container

    All depends on the formula constituents.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    February 14, 2020 at 4:26 pm in reply to: Pomade has decent texture but water around edges of container

    No offense here Craft but that is on ugly pomade, friend. You do not have an emulsion at all ( I assume C25 = ceteareth-25?), so perhaps stop trying to make one. Add more clay/less water and you’ll have a suspension thingy.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    February 14, 2020 at 4:23 pm in reply to: Adding Acids to anhydrous systems

    No need to solubilize if its solid state. Just suspend with silica in the CCT.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 30, 2019 at 10:30 pm in reply to: Natural Preservatives

    With no actual knowledge of your formula, and what may be present to bind water, if you have a water activity so low as to be almost nil, why bother with a preservative at all? How can this “mostly anhydrous bar” have a pH, come to think of it? 

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 30, 2019 at 10:25 pm in reply to: Coco Glucoside with lower water content?

    Yup: without water as diluent that surfactant is a gummy mess. 

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 30, 2019 at 10:19 pm in reply to: The Best Conference for Skincare Chemists

    I’ll second that suggestion. Attend both days of NYSCC Supplier’s Day(s) and pay attention closely. You will learn a lot. InCosmetics (EU) will be even better.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 30, 2019 at 10:17 pm in reply to: Inactivation of Preservatives

    Phenoxyethanol is not deactivated by nonionic surfactants. Most overlooked property of phenoxyethanol is that it does not act well alone as a preservative. It is most effective “cooperating” with polyols, parabens, phenolics, PCMX, etc.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 30, 2019 at 10:14 pm in reply to: Working with Ultrez 10

    Ignore that bit about “withstand salts”. It won’t. Eliminate every sodium salt you have there and you should be fine.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 23, 2019 at 4:16 pm in reply to: potassium sorbate change color

    My Turkish comrade, does not that preservative include benzyl alcohol? Benzyl alcohol causes the discoloration, not the acid. Parabens will work fine here, BTW. 

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 23, 2019 at 4:09 pm in reply to: Allergen-Free Manufacturer

    Virtually all of us CM are allergen-free, just as long as we do not process those raw materials in our facilities. If a CM is grinding, milling, blending nuts, shells, raw powders, dairy (?!) then they disqualify.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 23, 2019 at 4:04 pm in reply to: Formulating for Afro textured hair

    You will get better results from using BTHC or BTMS as your cationic emulsion base than with CETAC as long as dimethicone is the oil being emulsified. Other than that, shea butter, marula oil, castor oil, sunflower oil,…..”the world is your oyster” for rinse-off conditioners. I’ve always been a polyquternium-10 guy myself. As for hemisqualane: prohibitively expensive in my book. Too little bang for too many bucks.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 23, 2019 at 3:57 pm in reply to: zno and ph in a lotion

    That much ZnO will not be soluble in any workable amount of acid; which you may only use acetic or mineral acids (e.g. HCl, HNO3) anyhow, so give up on solvating it, just disperse it in oils or paraffinics like everyone else does. That way, your pH is irrelevant.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 23, 2019 at 3:50 pm in reply to: Cleaning Validation Sal Acid & Menthol

    @Herbnerd, that is really cool for menthol detection, and pun intended! Salicylic acid qualitative should be easy, just swab a ferric chloride dilute solution and if it turns purple you are SalAc positive, if not, negative. Place into a spectrophotometer (visible spectrum) cuvette for an absorbance number if that is critical.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 23, 2019 at 3:43 pm in reply to: Anti fog spray

    PPG-adducted silicones, and there are too many to mention here. Ask the folks at SilTech, Dowsil, etc. for direction.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 23, 2019 at 3:40 pm in reply to: new formula for low porosity afro hair. discuss!!

    I don’t know where to start here….DEL the oils, DEL the glycerin, DEL the barisica (sic) alcohol, DEL xanthan gum.  Get hold of a cationic polymer - say guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride - and disperse/hydrate it carefully into water first, then add your chosen surfactants. That will be only your starting point. Build from there. Good luck.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 23, 2019 at 3:27 pm in reply to: Viscosity difference between carbopol 940 & Sepimax Zen

    There sure is. Carbopol 940 will yield a higher viscosity at 1%w/w than Seppimax ZEN. The latter is useful for its electrolytic stability, of which Carbopols have zilch.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 23, 2019 at 3:14 pm in reply to: Package Labeling

    A pressure-sensitive label underneath the container is fine. FYI, I have printed alkali and waterfast labels from a certain coated substrate label media made by Avery in the past. I can’t remember what they were called, but they were a pain to work with.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 23, 2019 at 3:10 pm in reply to: c12-15 pareth-9 source?

    Pretty sure that nonionic is from Huntsman and is not commercially available to us commoners. Try looking at the Ethox catalog for a facsimile, Laureth-9 (Ethal 926) fits the bill.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 17, 2019 at 10:29 pm in reply to: Glyceryl stearate SE | Silicones | Phenoxyethanol

    Bravo, Petrev, for both formulating a good product and taking ngaryaeva001’s advice. I agree 1000cst dimethicone is probably the most versatile. Silicone has no irritation potential at all; it is the niacin giving you that tinge of irritation, my friend. DEL it and you’ll be better off. 

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 17, 2019 at 10:22 pm in reply to: Problem with pH & viscosity in Natural Olive oil Bodywash Formula

    Perry is right - the pH of this should be in the range of pH8.0 with that saponified olive oil in there. You also need to increase sulfoacetate, the best hydrotrope in there, and DEL coco glucosides, which contributes very little as long as you have the sarcosinate in there. Either way, I wouldn’t let this one out of the lab without a preservative, which I don’t see.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 17, 2019 at 10:14 pm in reply to: Do rinse-off cleansers benefit from adding silicones?

    Affirmative, Gunther. Keratin is keratin, only hair is more porous then skin and nails.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 17, 2019 at 10:12 pm in reply to: Formulation - private cosmetic chemist vs inhouse chemist

    @singal the pros & cons are this: A consulting formulator will provide you with ownership of intellectual proeprty before you even begin the contract manufacturing process, granting you leverage when they are costing your job. Relying on the CM to formuate costs much less money, usually a nominal fee, but you will not gain immediate ownership with most CM - say 99% (which makes Emily’s offer compelling, depending what they are charging.) We always grant our clients a path to ownership, usually when they reach a prescribed sales threshold, since we prefer to make a living manufacturing not consulting.

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