Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Pomade has decent texture but water around edges of container

  • Pomade has decent texture but water around edges of container

    Posted by Anonymous on February 14, 2020 at 8:19 am

    I recently brewed a small batch that I thought initially had a decent texture.

    However, I left it overnight and the next day, I noticed my container (tin can) was cold to the touch (because of the excess water) - much colder than any of my store bought products. Upon closer examination, I saw that the outer layer was watery and if I squeezed the tin can, the emulsion oozed a little bit of water near the edges.

    You can kind of see it here in the picture. The center is nice, but the edge is watery after cooling - I’m pretty sure that if I squeezed it enough and tip the jar over, I can pour some liquid out. I don’t have a better picture cause I tossed this in the bin shortly after.

    Is this an issue with my phases not emulsifying properly or do I just need to use less water?

    Formula:
    H20 - 43.8%
    Clays - 13%
    PVP - 1%
    Propanediol - 1%

    C25 - 6%
    Waxes - 24%
    Oils - 10%

    Preservative + Fragrance - 1.2%

    Process:
    1. Mix oil phase and heat until 85C.
    2. Mix water phase with clay and heat until 85C
    3. Mix the two phases together and blend.
    4. Add preservative + fragrance at around 78C. Quick blend.
    5. Pour at around 76C (any lower than this and it becomes very thick).

    I’ve looked at my previous batch and their compositions and every time I lowered the water composition, it feels like my product is too thick to work with, but if I increase it, the mixture is moist with extra water. I’ve been considering dropping some wax for some petroleum/mineral oil. Would appreciate any feedback

    Anonymous replied 4 years, 8 months ago 2 Members · 3 Replies
  • 3 Replies
  • natzam44

    Member
    February 14, 2020 at 1:52 pm

    When water starts to emerge from a product, it is usually because the emulsion is not quite good and needs an extra bit of help.

    Alternatively, this could also be due to poor mixing of the product. After adding fragrance and preservatives, I usually find it best to spend a decent amount of time blending to ensure stability. You might try bumping up your emulsifier a tiny bit and making another batch.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    February 14, 2020 at 4:26 pm

    No offense here Craft but that is on ugly pomade, friend. You do not have an emulsion at all ( I assume C25 = ceteareth-25?), so perhaps stop trying to make one. Add more clay/less water and you’ll have a suspension thingy.

  • Anonymous

    Guest
    February 14, 2020 at 5:41 pm

    No offense here Craft but that is on ugly pomade, friend. You do not have an emulsion at all ( I assume C25 = ceteareth-25?), so perhaps stop trying to make one. Add more clay/less water and you’ll have a suspension thingy.

    Thanks for the feedback - that’s why I am here. C25 is Ceteareath-25, so I definitely do have an emulsifier in there. I’ll keep trying. Cheers

    natzam44 said:

    When water starts to emerge from a product, it is usually because the emulsion is not quite good and needs an extra bit of help.

    Alternatively, this could also be due to poor mixing of the product. After adding fragrance and preservatives, I usually find it best to spend a decent amount of time blending to ensure stability. You might try bumping up your emulsifier a tiny bit and making another batch.

    Thanks Natzam, it might be a combo of both, I’ll try to blend a bit better - I just ordered an overhead mixer so I should have an easier time. If that doesn’t work, I’ll up the emulsifier. I originally wanted to reduce Cetereath-25 because my other batch was tough to rub in my hands.

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