

chemicalmatt
Forum Replies Created
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Use a Cowles head on a standard gear-drive Lightnin’ type mixer or turbine mixer with 400 - 600 rpm speed. Slower speed works too just takes longer than 90 minutes. Best bet of all is to use an eductor (uses Bernoulli effect to induct carbomer into water stream) and Silverson makes a fine one of those too. If you can use Ultrez 21 instead, then you don’t need all that shear, just a standard impellor blade, no more. Good luck getting hold of any these days!
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Pretty sure this inquiry was indicated for surfaces, not skin. Standard use level is 1.2 - 1.5% active hydrogen peroxide, and I’d stabilize with good old tetrasodium pyrophosphate (what the bigs use) or sodium phytate/phytic acid buffer to pH 4.8 if you can afford it. Right now only the quats are validated as virucidal for human coronavirus on contact (10 minutes!) by the US EPA, but peroxide will work nearly as well in my opinion and is allowable for non-registry disinfectant sprays temporarily.
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Bashar, SLS will not play well with those other three given its water solubility.
You may want to add it separately into water phase when formulating and not much either. As for your D.I.Y. emulsifying wax, a starter with HLB value ~ 10 not considering the cetyl component will be:
Cetyl Alcohol 60.0%
Glyceryl Stearate 20.0%
Tween 60 20.0% -
What Pharma said holds true. (Thanks, Pharma) I’ve long thought sodium metabilsulfite an underrated ingredient in personal care, especially given its water-solubility and low cost. I’ve used it when formulating with highly oxidation-sensitive materials such as resveratrol, anthocyanins.
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You may want to begin with Allured’s site: https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/ then begin studying, going from there to the specialty chemical supplier websites that sell surfactants, rheology modifiers, builders, etc.
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chemicalmatt
MemberMarch 26, 2020 at 4:54 pm in reply to: Inclusion rate of Triethyl Citrate as a co-fixative.Use 1.0% TEC in the total formula.
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chemicalmatt
MemberMarch 25, 2020 at 9:44 pm in reply to: Help Needed from a Chemist Please! Temporary Wrinkle Remover — Original Formula Early 1980sJill18, it was a Jeuvenessence product you found and used, and they are based in Florida. It had Argirilene in it too - a very expensive peptide ingredient for dermal rejuvenation, but the sodium silicate did most of the coverage as noted. I duplicated the formula many years ago but no longer have my notes. I seem to remember 5.0 - 8.0% sodium silicate 40%, but not all of these are alike, there are silicate ratios to consider. Best of luck.
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Suggested ratio of Triethanolamine 99%: Ultrez 21 will be 1:1 no more. That Ashland stuff is relabeled Ultrez.
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Standard carbomers make lousy alcohol:water gels, period, no matter how well you hydrate them. This is why everyone who manufactures these gels commercially - like my company - uses Acrylates/C10 -30 Alkyl Acrylates Crosspolymer (Ultrez-21). Now 3V Sigma USA has developed an acrylic/PEG co-polymer called RapidGel EZ1. That stuff outperforms them all. If only 3V Sigma could make it fast enough to supply us all during this COVID-19 crisis! They are steady trying though.
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Peace, what you are alluding to is water activity (Aw) as a means of preservation. IF the total amount of free water is sufficiently lower than bound water, your mixture will stay uncontaminated - to an extent. This is why honey can stay out of the fridge. Your glycerine:water ratio must be 2:3 or greater, if you can add a little xylitol even better. Acidify with citric acid to pH 3.0 and you may be good for years. Aloe vera is naturally acidic You may still need to worry about molds so keep a tight lid on it.
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Tony your batch is toast. You added way too much electrolyte - then added even more. That acrylate gel is done. Reboot like Pharma sez.
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chemicalmatt
MemberMarch 25, 2020 at 8:44 pm in reply to: Inclusion rate of Triethyl Citrate as a co-fixative.Use in proportion to your fragrance and/or essentials. I think 1.00% sounds about right - and your nose does not lie. Also, triethyl citrate should not be very pricey, unless you are sourcing from an online ingredient site. Jungbunzlauer has a good position and sells it worldwide.
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Use triethyl citrate, best fragrance oil fixative around.
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chemicalmatt
MemberFebruary 22, 2020 at 12:29 am in reply to: Making a deep conditioner for fine hairWhen will Making Cosmetics leave the building, I ask?
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chemicalmatt
MemberFebruary 22, 2020 at 12:27 am in reply to: Leave in conditioner obsession and issuesDEL the stearic acid and choose which quat you want to go with. CETAC and BTMS are “competing” to be the primary emulsifier there. CETAC usually wins.
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PEG-90 is not as soluble as you think enzihoo. Add a hydrotrope, a bit of amphoteric will do.
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I can’t pass this one up: “can’t achieve hardness” in an “intimate soap”? Insert punchline please.
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The thing with microemulsions using that system is they are process dependent. Research the lit and you will always find a sonicator used, so chemistry is secondary. You make no mention of a polyol which is nearly critical in a Winsor IV type you describe. Try adding propylene glycol (5-10%) and you may find better results.
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chemicalmatt
MemberFebruary 14, 2020 at 5:27 pm in reply to: Questions about my formula for a waterbased edge controlYup. Besides Bill’s comment that Tween 80 is competing with your PEG esters. DEL it and you should have a firmer product.
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chemicalmatt
MemberFebruary 14, 2020 at 5:23 pm in reply to: Alcohol free hand sanitizer. Does it work?I’ll weigh in here - and heads up Bill Toge - the British invented use of PCMX with phenoxyethanol (turbocharges its effectiveness) during the 1st World War to sanitize latrines and keep their soldiers from succumbing to the Spanish influenza. British university training helps the world again! It was in the BP (British Pharmacopaia) for years, then ignored here in the States during the 1980s when the other disinfectants came to fore. PCMX is accepted in every country, it is still effective, does NOT contribute to MIRSA or any other negative outcome. I use it (with phenoxyethanol) in HBA products to this day as a broad-spectrum preservative with great success. It has an odor issue and works better above pH7.0 but use it to fend off CVI? You bet!
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chemicalmatt
MemberFebruary 14, 2020 at 5:12 pm in reply to: glyceryl stearate citrate vs sodium stearoyl glutamateGo with the Na stearoyl glutamate. A little goes a long way in emulsifying and sensorial outcome is better. Both are weirdly expensive though.
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The term free water may be misleading, since Aw (water activity) is a factor of all constituents involved with or interacting with the water present. I always use the term “bound water” to mean the hydrate - or water molecules - actually inherent in the material itself. E.G. Borax decahydrate has 10 moles bound water.
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Tendo, you should be able to obtain Polysorbate 80 (FG - food grade) In Kampala from a food ingredient supply house. Try that. Otherwise lecithin may be a long shot here. Good luck!
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All depends on the formula constituents.
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chemicalmatt
MemberFebruary 14, 2020 at 4:26 pm in reply to: Pomade has decent texture but water around edges of containerNo offense here Craft but that is on ugly pomade, friend. You do not have an emulsion at all ( I assume C25 = ceteareth-25?), so perhaps stop trying to make one. Add more clay/less water and you’ll have a suspension thingy.