Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Questions about my formula for a waterbased edge control

  • Questions about my formula for a waterbased edge control

    Posted by Newtoformulating on February 13, 2020 at 12:03 am


    Hello and thanks for allowing me to join this forum! I have been researching and working hard to create a strong hold waterbased edge control but I am running into a few roadblocks. My first batch was ok and I quickly realized my mistake……too much PEG 8 beeswax. The batch was so thick I couldn’t get it out of the beaker it was mixed in therefore I eliminated the beeswax. Ok so batch 2 the beeswax was no longer but I made another mistake that I quickly realized (it was also made with the first batch as well) I mixed all the ingredients together in one beaker…adding one ingredient at a time starting with water and it just got worse and worse as I added more in but once the heat was hot enough everything blended but I had ALOT of foam and bubbles on top of the end result so…..Batch #3 I realized through further research that the water needed to be heat by itself in a phase and all other ingredients in another phase with the exception of the preservative. So I did that and everything was going well until I added the water into the other phase and everything went downhill from there the batch immediately started to clump together and get really cloudy. I heated the batch more trying to dissolve the mess I had and it worked some but not alot. I had the foam and bubbles on top I assume from the constant stirring trying to mix everything  but I realized that while I was heating the 2 phases I set the water aside the other phase heated and was dissolving and when I checked the temp of the water I had the thermometer in farenheit (it read 100 degrees but farenheit) and not celcius so of course the water was too cool (37 degrees celcius so it was definitely too cool to be added in and but to my surprise when I poured it in the containers and the product hardened (and I removed the top layer of foam and bubbles) it was clear underneath so I was happy about that. I think the foam and bubbles may go away if everything is mixed at the proper temperature.  I have realized some of my mistakes so that’s all fine just wanted to let you know what all I have done so far but my dilemma is that when I apply the finished product to my edges it takes about 20-30 minutes for it to dry to the touch but the hold is still not as strong as I would like and it does turn a little white when it dries. 

    Here is my formula (which is pretty much the same for all 3 batches minus the beeswax on the last 2 batches)
    This is the exact formula used for this last batch:

    Water 54%
    Ceteareth-25 30%
    PEG 40 Hydrogenated castor oil 5%
    PEG 7 Glycerl cocoate 5%
    Polysorbate 80 5%
    Optiphen 1%

    It seems like I have too much oil and its decreasing the hold of the product but I’m not sure. When it does eventually dry on my edges it does have a little hold but not as much as I would like and it turns white as I mentioned before. Any advice would help. I can upload pictures if that would help also. Thanks in advance!

    AOD420 replied 2 months, 4 weeks ago 4 Members · 5 Replies
  • 5 Replies
  • bill_toge

    February 13, 2020 at 12:16 am

    for what it’s worth, polysorbate 60 or 80 at that level will render most preservatives useless

  • Newtoformulating

    February 13, 2020 at 12:30 am

    @Bill_Toge thanks for responding. Do you think that is part of my dilemma and if so what should I cut it down to? Thanks again 

  • chemicalmatt

    February 14, 2020 at 5:27 pm

    Yup. Besides Bill’s comment that Tween 80 is competing with your PEG esters. DEL it and you should have a firmer product.

    • AOD420

      November 30, 2023 at 11:40 am

      Testing this theory today, and possibly testing one with a hair fixative (MakingCosmetics brand), interested to see. I have someone interested in an edge control with more hold to lay 4C hair.

  • Newtoformulating

    February 15, 2020 at 3:03 am

    @chemicalmatt Thanks so much I will try that next! Thanks again for responding 

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