chemicalmatt
Forum Replies Created
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Cut that castor oil with some sulfonated castor oil and you’ll be in business. It won’t hurt the bath “bloom” you seek either.
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DEL the salt & glycerin (as @Perry points out). Polyquaternium-10: disperse and hydrate in water first before adding anything else. Period. No need to pre-disperse. Best ratio for CAPB:SLES (solids) for viscosity is 1:1. The “classic” build ratio with the amide is SLES:CAPB:Coca DEA at 4:2:1, but increasing ratio of CAPB will raise viscosity. Then again as @Andraous said: why 20,000 cps? Hope this will be packaged in a tube.
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@omer are you referring to soy methyl esters? Depending on how much you used, and how much %water, that likely dissolved/disrupted the cross-links in the Carbopol. Try using Acrylates Copolymer or another acrylic copolymer compatible with ethanol and see what happens.
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I’m with @Andraous : chloroxylenol is the best. Use with phenoxyethanol (and NaOH as Andraous mentioned) and you aid its solubility and turbocharge its germicidal property too. Who ever needed triclosan in the first place?
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Zeolite is always good in a liquid laundry detergent. It doesn’t really add detergency though, like STPP does. It traps soils and prevents from redepositing. Great builder.
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Lots of questions there @Thota
You are correct: that should not need much antioxidant protection, but a little will help. Just 0.10 - 0.20% mixed tocopherols plus 0.20 - 0.40% UVB absorber (Uvasorb HEB works well) and you should be OK. How to determine oxidation is occurring? Depends on your formula. Discoloration is a common clue. Using 1.0% Vit. E acetate is unnecessary and gummy too. Not recommended. Your instincts are right. -
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I like where @Cafe33 is going here @blacbird23. I’ll add that Polyquaternium-7 is not expensive either. Heed the question too: why guar? Unless it is Guar HPTC (cationic) that is only gumming up the works (yes, pun intended). I’ll also add that BTMS is a nifty emulsifier for silicones. Adding 2.0% dimethicone 350 CST to this would bring it home.
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@NguyenDuy you are experiencing surface oxidation of the thiol reducing agent - so very typical of depilatories. The guts of your formula are pretty good though more mineral oil would be better. An anti-oxidant will not be of use since thiols ARE anti-oxidants (reducing agent, right?) That yellowing may be from iron or other multivalent metals in the water or your vessel. (Why we always passivate our SS blending equipment when using thiols) You already have EDTA (Na4?) so just deionize 99.999% and fill under a nitrogen blanket and no problemo. Never used xanthan gum as a rheological in a thiol system before. This should be fine without any, but Veegum would be a good choice as @MetalizeMerz suggests.
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A high-speed/high-sheer liquid rotor-stator homogenizer will help, but using micronized pigments will help even more as @Benz3ne suggests.
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@RawMaterialGirl…what Perry said, especially what item exactly describes “Carbopol”? I assume you are using Aqua SF-1 or an analog since straight carbomer would crash immediately. HEC would also not be my first choice for rheology stabilizer either; Hydroxymethylcellulose (Methocel) works better in this system. (Don’t be fooled by label content) Finally, if your solid-state ratio of ALS to amphoteric is close to 1:1 at pH 5.0 - 6.0, and you build with an alkanolamide (e.g. cocoamide DIPA) you should not need a rheological modifier at all.
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Over-formulated, and that’s an understatement.
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@suswang8 Phytic acid and its salts are not anti-oxidants, but chelating agents (and marvelous stabilizer/inhibitors for hydrogen peroxide I may add). You need an antioxidant Big Time or this stuff will eventually be puke grey.
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@alasilva this is an alkyl-quaternary cationic surfactant, the methosulfate is just the complexing anion used, and it is a hair conditioning agent as most quats are. This material happens to be environmentally acceptable to the folks who are chemically averse to more common - and more effective - ones.
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@Batoul the new fragrance had a solvent/fixative based on n-alkylphenoxy ethers, notorius for crashing viscosity in built surfactant systems. Perhaps use less?
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@ajw000 If you want a foaming conditioner you will need to add a cationic surfactant as a trade-off. CETAC or StearAC at 2.00% w/w will foam enough to show up as foam on the hair. You’ll have an actual emulsion too, since I can’t see how the one you have stays together for long.
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@qwerty Actually @MarkBroussard is half-correct. The sodium sulfite in there will reduce cystine disulfide links in keratin, like thiols but slower. That is Old School hair straightening. The presence of sulfite and malic acid is curious but can’t say how or why. I generally trust those German chemists, so this is a crude hack of Olaplex. BTW, malic acid is a chief constituent in apple cider vinegar that many people swear strengthens and glossifies their hair.
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I cannot think of a good reason for adding NaCl in two stages @RDchemist15. Must be a stream of consciousness thing. Regarding adding salt and other solids first: outcome will be largely the same in a simple shampoo/body wash system such as the one cited. I place salt first into water with industrial formulas where I have data accrued knowing the final salt vs. viscosity and pH outcome. Likewise for citric acid, sodium metabisulfite, other solid-state additives. Makes the compounder’s job easier and saves QC the task of making batch adjustments to release.
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Good call @amitvedakar: should not mix an oxidizer with an anti-oxidant. Defeats the purpose, right?
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@Sasse, first, I cannot think so little concentration of T-50 (commercial Coviox T-50 from BASF) would cause noticeable greasiness, so you may want to reconsider your results. Answering your question though: use rosemary oleoresin in the oil phase to mitigate auto-oxidation. Works well but does leave a light pastel color at 0.10%. Then again there is good ‘ol BHT. Also, tocopherol acetate does not have much antioxidant potential - often misunderstood by formulators here - but mixed tocopherols (Coviox T-50, T-90) absolutely do.
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L’Oreal places their internal formula ID into their labels often, so do not go nuts trying to find those numbers in a INCI index because they are not ingredients. As @Belassi said: this is a whole lotta’ silicone cross-polymer diluted with isododecane and thickened with colloidal silica. Nothing else.
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@bayo1214 since your cream uses both stearic acid and carbomer (and I assume you mean 0.50% carbomer not 5.0%) I suggest using Tromethamine (trimethylamine, not TEA) as a neutralizer/saponifier. Works nearly the same as TEA, better than MEA, but acceptable everywhere. NaOH and DMEA will present different viscosity and emulsifying outcomes, as will arginine. See as source TrisAmino from Angus Chemical in the USA.
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I’ll add to always use the 24-hour clock (international standard), especially where ISO auditors are involved. I went out and bought large digital 24:00 clocks for the Compounding Departments where I worked to keep the guys in the habit. Didn’t take long for them to report 3:45PM as 15:45.
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Same.
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@chemistry8303, here are suggestions, not knowing your order of addition (important), you need a greater level of cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) in this. CAPB is the amphoteric hydrotrope here and you need more of it. Reduce the anionics accordingly until you have a ratio 2 - 3: 1 anionics to amphoteric. Next, reduce or DEL PolyQ-22, it is redundant. If PolyQ-10 is dispersed properly (1st ingredient in and hydrated 100% before the next) and at the right level (~0.50%), that will be all you need. Remember quats, even polymeric ones, are inherently destabilizing in classic shampoo systems. Also, the first addition after the PolyQ-10 at 70 - 75C should be the CAPB, then the cetyl alcohol & TG, then amide, anionics last. Next, DEL the decyl glucoside; it is only interfering with the rest, not adding anything, plus is a notorius viscosity reducer. Finally, after blending this at 70 - 75C, cool SLOWLY, so slow you get bored.