Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Non-surfactant foaming agent?

  • Non-surfactant foaming agent?

    Posted by ajw000 on December 19, 2020 at 8:15 pm

    I’m looking for a natural foaming/lathering agent that is not a surfactant. This will be used for a 100% natural hair conditioner. 

    Suggestions? 

    ajw000 replied 3 years, 4 months ago 4 Members · 10 Replies
  • 10 Replies
  • Pharma

    Member
    December 20, 2020 at 9:18 am
    The very definition of a foaming agent is based on reduced surface tension and by definition, anything which reduces surface tension is a surfactant. Even if you use foaming proteins or plant extracts from organic farming or whatever, the active principles therein are automatically surfactants.
  • ajw000

    Member
    December 20, 2020 at 4:21 pm

    @Pharma

    Okay, I think I get that now. Maybe it is better to state my end goal and get feedback on what would be suggested. 

    Currently I have a conditioner that performs more like a “cream rinse”. When you put it in your hair it almost disappears and you can’t tell if it is still in your hair while you are massaging it into your scalp/hair. 

    How can I increase the “presence” of the product during application without using surfactants that strip away all of the conditioning ingredients of the conditioner?  *while maintaining 100% natural claim*

  • Pharma

    Member
    December 20, 2020 at 8:19 pm

    Did you try adding/increasing fatty alcohols?

  • ajw000

    Member
    December 21, 2020 at 11:21 am

    Yes

    Stearyl Alcohol 9.44%

    Behenyl Alcohol 7.55%

  • ajw000

    Member
    December 23, 2020 at 11:20 am

    @pharma, any suggestions?

  • belassi

    Member
    December 23, 2020 at 7:07 pm

    Without listing the formula we cannot help.

  • ajw000

    Member
    December 24, 2020 at 7:39 pm
    64.28 % Water
    9.44 % Stearyl Alcohol
    7.55% Behenyl Alcohol
    9.43% Oils
    .75% Guar gum
    .94% Marshmallow root powder
    Rest: Preservative, fragrance, proteins
     
  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 29, 2020 at 10:15 pm

    @ajw000 If you want a foaming conditioner you will need to add a cationic surfactant as a trade-off. CETAC or StearAC at 2.00% w/w will foam enough to show up as  foam on the hair.  You’ll have an actual emulsion too, since I can’t see how the one you have stays together for long.

  • ajw000

    Member
    December 30, 2020 at 3:31 am

    @chemicalmatt I’m still learning in this area, I was trying to stay away from surfactants as they are what strip the oils in the conditioner away from the hair. Am I correct in that understanding? 

    I will have to look into emulsifiers and stability testing as well. 

  • ajw000

    Member
    December 31, 2020 at 2:55 am

    @Chemicalmatt What about Glyceryl Stearate to emulsify? Can that be labeled as natural? Most of what I am finding says yes. 

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