chemicalmatt
Forum Replies Created
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@ketchito is spot on here: you’ll need a rheology stabilizer anyway since you plan to add mica to this. That being true, why not just add one of the mica-based opacifier-pearlizers (Timica perhaps?) after adding yield value with a rheology agent such as Synthalen W600?
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@PassionFruit95 DO NOT use cationic Polyquternium-10, especially the high MW version, with any anionic polymer, such as Ultrez XX, under any circumstance. That is a recipe for failure as you’ve discovered. If you must employ a cationic polymer into a shampoo, use a chiefly acrylamide-functional one such as Polyquaternium-7, and not too much either or it will gel out the same as what you see here, only it will take a few weeks longer to do so. Also, even without the cationic agent, Ultrez cannot tolerate all that amphoteric surfactant, so it is wasted on this formula. Try PLAN B: use the PQ-10 30M as your thickener and double-duty as conditioner in same system. Save time, money, frustration…cool, huh?
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@Abdullah The amount and limit of salt addition is co-dependent with the alkyl functional group and concentration of the quat used. CETAC and neutralized amine salts (e.g. stearamidopropyl dimethylamine) give best response to salt thickening. I’ve found adding it after the product has coalesced at around 35 - 40C is best, although with some systems I’ve added at RT no problem.
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@Natures_beauty What you are asking is for a member knowledgeable in the supply chain of any of these brands to cede confidential information to you regarding contract manufacturing. We sign lengthy CNDA with such firms to protect that confidence so: good luck with that!
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@KimberlyLars better make sure everything there is peroxide stable or you will be sorry. Sepigel 305? Which “Extract”?
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Hola’ @Quimico, formula no servir hoy?
DELETE the stearic acid, it is incompatible with cationic alkyl quaternary. Also, add some mineral oil or other aceite to emulsify here or this will be only a rinse. The CETAC alone should work, but if not add small amount of Ceteareth-20 and you’ll be OK. Sodium chloride (sal) will thicken that system too, which many formulators aren’t aware. -
Not so sure about humectancy and those two, since urea is generally used as a keratolytic. Place a 40% urea solution on your nail plate and overnight the nail will have dissolved and you’ll be ready for toe surgery. Reason for using sodium lactate-lactic acid with high urea content is that is the best buffering system to stabilize urea at pH 5.0 - 5.5. Urea decomposes (reduces) into ammonia in aqueous solution - just ask any farmer who uses it for fertilizer.
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PVA is the barrier resin of choice for packaging film media and certain tubes. It will often accompany or replace the aluminum barrier layer in that same media. There is Met-PET also, which P&G may use since food-grade film converters and users also apply, which P&G is.
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For all three, use this lab. Tell Lauren that Matt sent you.
Microbiological Testing & Consulting | Personal Care Products Testing | home (mtcresearch.com) -
I recommend using PETG for ethanol content such as this. Polypropylene will work but not as well. Both resins hold up at that pH too.
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Apparently so. The ammonium ether sulfates are less irritating than their Na analogs. I’ll buy that.
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Have you tried cutting the Ceteareth-25 with Beheneth-25 yet? A better mousetrap can be made there.
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First of all kudos to Mark Fuller: D9 from Colonial works the best - totally agree. There are three physical chemistry problems you are up against: even the best solubilizers such as D9 require a ratio of 3:1at minimum and with EO that rises to 6:1, so you already are up to 30% solids just to incorporate 4.5% EO, even if you extend it with PG caprylate/caprate. This leaves very little water to dissolve your 30% MgCl2 with. Then, considering the EO/solubilizer combo is actually a microemulsion, all that Mg salt will certainly prevent it from ever being stable if forming at all in the first place! My question then is WTF do you need all that MgCl2 for? What purpose is magnesium chloride serving in skin-care? Wherever did all this “magnesium oil” nonsense start?
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I’ve made many inverse-phase HIP emulsions and with great success. A @ChemicalPyros alludes, they are under-appreciated. There are also different kinds: w/o. w/Si and different approaches depending on the primary emulsifier used. These can be tricky to make and stabilize, but an inverse-phase emulsion having 80% + water and water-solubles? What’s not to like?
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Interesting. I could not access the article unfortunately but I will surmise this makes a compelling argument for using petrolatum, mineral oil and dimethicone as emollient vehicles in skincare. No lipid integration problem with those - ever.
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Not necessarily: on a solids basis SLES-2 can post higher Ross-Miles values than SLS. The more significant thing is the differences in foam quality. You’ll notice the bubbles are bigger with SLS (why it subsides faster?) and richer with SLES. For years that’s why formulators used both in tandem; likewise with the ALS/ALES combination.
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The PEG-ester thickeners function best with anionic sulfates and sulfonates and to a lesser extent sulfoacetates. The best response is with SLES-2. After sulfonated anionics they loose most if not all of their thickening mojo.
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Affirmative - and less expensive too.
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The ratio of fragrance to solubilizer and amount used is key there, and if you are using a LOT of fragrance therefore a LOT of surfacant-solubilizer, then woe is you for the duration. The most efficient one I found to be is PolySugaMulse D9 from Colonial Chemical. The ethoxylated compounds generally cause “deflation” you experienced, i.e. polysorbate 20, Oleth-10, PEG-40 HCO.
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With my consulting clients, they ultimately own the IP of formulation, which is the entire purpose of the engagement: to own the formula, release specs, processing, sources, etc. However, if they expect this to be exclusive, that is written into the initial agreement, otherwise I can share the formulation - slightly revised, of course, to be ethical - with future clients. This is why the hourly professional service fee or monthly retainer fee is important. I’ve learned not to undersell my skills.
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@Abdullah at that level & pH I always guess “until it hurts”
but seriously, perhaps 30 - 40 minutes. At pH 6.0, several hours. -
As you state, they are one and same. The INCI convention used in personal care is to name ethoxylated esters as “PEG-” and ethoxylated alcohol ethers as “-eth”. Copolymers of PEO are named as PEG/PPG (w/polypropylene glycol). The drug peeps are enamored with the prefix “PEO”, but its all the same molecule.
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I would reassess the technique here. That ORS kit has guanidine hydroxide as its lanthionizing agent, and as Perry points out that is not as good as NaOH but will still bust apart 85% of those cystine bonds if properly used. 1) wash the hair thoroughly, 2) always apply to DRY hair only, 3) apply evenly from root to tips, starting at the crown, 4) if straightening is insufficient, leave on longer, the 20 minute “safety limit” is just that: if your wife can tolerate the stinging pain, that product will eventually straighten her hair - quite permanently too. A common mistake is application to wet hair or hair treated with something other than a formulated pre-treatment. You will notice that NONE of the pre-treats contains water, all are glycol based. Water swells the hair, increasing the diameter. Think of the straightening process as a race to the cortex from outside the shaft through the cuticle. Anything that increases the hair diameter increases the time to the cortex where the cystine links are. I’ve developed and manufactured over a million kilograms of hair relaxer over the years (yes, you read that correctly). My only complaint is the damn market crashed when the Natural Hair Movement took hold 10 years ago. That money-maker went south!
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@Abdullah PEGs will aid in solvation without affecting foaming or viscosity build of the SLES. Glycols will quench foaming and make viscosity build nearly impossible.
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How did you manage to get that high a level of HYA to mist-spray I wonder? Must be the lowest MW grade I guess? Anyhow, I’d put my money on that and the betaine. When I read “film” I think “polymer” and that HYA is the only member present. Glycine betaine absorbs very strongly to keratin, therefore the “gummy”.