[chemicalmatt]

Yeesh! This sounds like a mess! Why not delete the  water, surfactants, PVP, phenoxytol, glycerin, clays and just build this with waxes, oils and butters? Keep come of the polysorbate-60 in there for easier rinse out. Otherwise return to GO.

[chemicalmatt]

None whatsoever. Carry on with your plan and save some coin. Look at [equipnet.com] or enroll yourself into the [bidspotter.com] site and keep an eye out for incubators on auction. They are a common item at pharma auctions.  

[chemicalmatt]

@Cosmetic_Chemist you are defining an attribute but not a variable. Does this body wash have a really high viscosity? Sounds like it to me. That could well be the “stringy” thing itself.  

[chemicalmatt]

@Anasmerixindia58 you are in need of a fixative my friend. Triethyl citrate should be easy to find in the subcontinent and inexpensive. 

[chemicalmatt]

I just saw that press release on LinkdIn and yes: kudos to Perry Romanowski for his contributions to our craft and industry. He gave us all this forum, right?

[chemicalmatt]

Yup, @Graillotion nailed it again: you are experiencing a Schiff Base reaction, happens with azo and azide groups interacting with aldehydes, ketones. The brighter the yellow color the greater the possibility.  Consider this as a palliative: if not a Schiff Base then you may have a nitrosamine forming. One way trip to Trouble Town there! 

[chemicalmatt]

@ketchito is spot on here: you’ll need a rheology stabilizer anyway since you plan to add mica to this. That being true, why not just add one of the mica-based opacifier-pearlizers (Timica perhaps?) after adding yield value with a rheology agent such as Synthalen W600? 

[chemicalmatt]

@PassionFruit95 DO NOT use cationic Polyquternium-10, especially the high MW version, with any anionic polymer, such as Ultrez XX, under any circumstance. That is a recipe for failure as you’ve discovered. If you must employ a cationic polymer into a shampoo, use a chiefly acrylamide-functional one such as Polyquaternium-7, and not too much either or it will gel out the same as what you see here, only it will take a few weeks longer to do so.  Also, even without the cationic agent, Ultrez cannot tolerate all that amphoteric surfactant, so it is wasted on this formula. Try PLAN B: use the PQ-10 30M as your thickener and double-duty as conditioner in same system. Save time, money, frustration…cool, huh?

[chemicalmatt]

@Abdullah The amount and limit of salt addition is co-dependent with the alkyl functional group and concentration of the quat used. CETAC and neutralized amine salts (e.g. stearamidopropyl dimethylamine) give best response to salt thickening. I’ve found adding it after the product has coalesced at around 35 - 40C is best, although with some systems I’ve added at RT no problem. 
  

[chemicalmatt]

@Natures_beauty What you are asking is for a member knowledgeable in the supply chain of any of these brands to cede confidential information to you regarding contract manufacturing. We sign lengthy CNDA with such firms to protect that confidence so: good luck with that!

[chemicalmatt]

@KimberlyLars better make sure everything there is peroxide stable or you will be sorry. Sepigel 305? Which “Extract”?  

[chemicalmatt]

Hola’ @Quimico, formula no servir hoy?
DELETE the stearic acid, it is incompatible with cationic alkyl quaternary. Also, add some mineral oil or other aceite to emulsify here or this will be only a rinse. The CETAC alone should work, but if not add small amount of Ceteareth-20 and you’ll be OK. Sodium chloride (sal) will thicken that system too, which many formulators aren’t aware.

[chemicalmatt]

Not so sure about humectancy and those two, since urea is generally used as a keratolytic. Place a 40% urea solution on your nail plate and overnight the nail will have dissolved and you’ll be ready for toe surgery.  Reason for using sodium lactate-lactic acid with high urea content is that is the best buffering system to stabilize urea at pH 5.0 - 5.5. Urea decomposes (reduces) into ammonia in aqueous solution - just ask any farmer who uses it for fertilizer.

[chemicalmatt]

PVA is the barrier resin of choice for packaging film media and certain tubes. It will often accompany or replace the aluminum barrier layer in that same media. There is Met-PET also, which P&G may use since food-grade film  converters and users also apply, which P&G is.

[chemicalmatt]

For all three, use this lab.  Tell Lauren that Matt sent you.
Microbiological Testing & Consulting | Personal Care Products Testing | home (mtcresearch.com)

[chemicalmatt]

I recommend using PETG for ethanol content such as this. Polypropylene will work but not as well. Both resins hold up at that  pH too.

[chemicalmatt]

Apparently so. The ammonium ether sulfates are less irritating than their Na analogs. I’ll buy that.

[chemicalmatt]

Have you tried cutting the Ceteareth-25 with Beheneth-25 yet? A better mousetrap can be made there.

[chemicalmatt]

First of all kudos to Mark Fuller: D9 from Colonial works the best - totally agree. There are three physical chemistry problems you are up against: even the best solubilizers such as D9 require a ratio of 3:1at minimum and with EO that rises to 6:1, so you already are up to 30% solids just to incorporate 4.5% EO, even if you extend it with PG caprylate/caprate. This leaves very little water to dissolve your 30% MgCl2 with. Then, considering the EO/solubilizer combo is actually a microemulsion, all that Mg salt will certainly prevent it from ever being stable if forming at all in the first place! My question then is WTF do you need all that MgCl2 for? What purpose is magnesium chloride serving in skin-care? Wherever did all this “magnesium oil” nonsense start?

[chemicalmatt]

I’ve made many inverse-phase HIP emulsions and with great success. A @ChemicalPyros alludes, they are under-appreciated. There are also different kinds: w/o. w/Si and different approaches depending on the primary emulsifier used. These can be tricky to make and stabilize, but an inverse-phase emulsion having 80% + water and water-solubles? What’s not to like?

[chemicalmatt]

Interesting. I could not access the article unfortunately but I will surmise this makes a compelling argument for using petrolatum, mineral oil and dimethicone as emollient vehicles in skincare. No lipid integration problem with those - ever.

[chemicalmatt]

Not necessarily: on a solids basis SLES-2 can post higher Ross-Miles values than SLS. The more significant thing is the differences in foam quality. You’ll notice the bubbles are bigger with SLS (why it subsides faster?) and richer with SLES. For years that’s why formulators used both in tandem; likewise with the ALS/ALES combination.

[chemicalmatt]

The PEG-ester thickeners function best with anionic sulfates and sulfonates and to a lesser extent sulfoacetates. The best response is with SLES-2.  After sulfonated anionics they loose most if not all of their thickening mojo. 

[chemicalmatt]

Affirmative - and less expensive too. 

[chemicalmatt]

The ratio of fragrance to solubilizer and amount used is key there, and if you are using a LOT of fragrance therefore a LOT of surfacant-solubilizer, then woe is you for the duration. The most efficient one I found to be is PolySugaMulse D9 from Colonial Chemical. The ethoxylated compounds generally cause “deflation” you experienced, i.e. polysorbate 20, Oleth-10, PEG-40 HCO.