Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair Cold Process Refatting Agent (for hand soap)?


  • Cold Process Refatting Agent (for hand soap)?

    Posted by BigDreams on November 18, 2021 at 6:04 pm

    Hi all,
    I’m looking to add a “moisturizing” component to a powdered hand wash. Since it’s a rinse-off cleanser I know the traditional humectants/emollients/etc. won’t be of much use so I want to go with some kind of refatting agent that won’t kill the foam. I’ve already included a cationic polymer which is helping, but would like to take it a step further.

    My problem is that all the options I’ve found need some kind of heat (either to melt the granules or turn a paste into a liquid) before they can be incorporated in a formula. Lamesoft, Tegosoft, etc. all seem to say the same thing. There’s a product out there now that has glyceryl oleate sprayed onto it but the sensorials are pretty rough (like sandpaper); which I can only assume is from it hardening back up after returning to room temperature.

    Are there any low viscosity liquid refatting agents that I could easily spray onto a powder without heating it up? Or other water soluble esters in powder form that don’t need heat?

    Could sorbitan sesquicaprylate be a good option here? The data sheet for Antil Soft SC says its low viscosity but I’m not sure if it’s actually going to do what I’m hoping it will do.

    Thanks so much!

    chemicalmatt replied 2 years ago 2 Members · 5 Replies
  • 5 Replies
  • BigDreams

    November 18, 2021 at 6:10 pm

    Not sure how this got filed under ‘Hair’…but it’s not really a hair question…sorry about that…

  • BigDreams

    November 18, 2021 at 6:27 pm

    Also forgot to mention I’m trying to stay away from PEGs and MEA/DEA/TEA. Probably why I’m having such a hard time…

  • chemicalmatt

    November 19, 2021 at 9:37 pm

    You might give the polyglyceryl esters a try, such as Emulsiderm PGEO. Most surfactants will agglomerate the powders depending on what you have inthere.

  • BigDreams

    November 22, 2021 at 5:49 pm

    Thanks @chemicalmatt! I did some research on PGEs and think they could work. I’m actually ok with some agglomeration since the some of the powders in the formula can get a bit dusty. I do have a couple follow up questions just to make sure I’m looking at things the right way.

    It looks like the INCI for Emulsiderm PGEO is “Olive Oil Polyglyceryl-6 Esters”. Since I’m not buying commercial quantities quite yet I found a couple of re-packers that sell Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate and Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate. I’m assuming the main differences here are the shorter polyglyceryl chain lengths and a fatty acid input that comes from straight oleic acid instead of olive oil, correct?

    Also wondering if you think they would give a similar (I know it won’t be exact) functionality to the Emulsiderm and if you had any insight on wheter the PG-3 or PG-4 might be a better choice for this application?

    Thanks again for your time and energy!

  • chemicalmatt

    November 30, 2021 at 7:45 pm

    @BigDreams Try the PG-4 Oleate, and should they offer PG-6 oleate, even better. That latter one matches up well with the PG olive oil ester. 

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