Forum Replies Created

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  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    February 2, 2022 at 2:06 pm in reply to: What does this chart about polymer deposition mean?

    Your confusion is warranted. If the x-axis values are %Transmission @ 600nm (yellow-red part of spectrum) how did the analyst gain a transmission HIGHER than 100% with their cationic polymer? Impossible.  Other than that absurdity, it shows their Polyquat-74 flocced nearly out of solution at a 2:1 dilution-deposition ratio with water while at a 4:1 ratio Polyqaut-10 (my personal fave) deposited onto substrate better than theirs and guarHPTC deposited even better at a 6:1 dilution-deposition. My conclusion: try not  to spend too much time under the shower head when rinsing  that 2-in-1 conditioning shampoo off your hair.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    February 2, 2022 at 1:49 pm in reply to: Your skincare “guilty pleasure”

    @Pharma  :smiley: funny! I can read the advert now: ” from the ancient waters of Lake Michigan where Potawatomi natives swam and frolicked with pristine sturgeons..”.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    February 2, 2022 at 1:43 pm in reply to: Urea

    IF you are  formulating with urea, DO NOT premix it, there is no need, it readily dissolves and is a weak electrolyte at best . Always add it directly to the batch during the cooling phase after heating/combining phases in an o/w emulsion for the same reason you state: it dissolves in water endothermically and will cool your batch as it dissolves. No ethanol is needed but a buffer is. Use lactic acid/sodium lactate at pH 5.5 - 6.0 or add rice starch, the more natural means of stabilizing urea.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    February 2, 2022 at 1:31 pm in reply to: SDS and wording

    @Stanley Drafting SDS is as much an art as a science. As long as there are no ingredients listed as hazardous in TSCA you may not need to list them in that section - leave it blank. I generally list the chief components with their CAS# just as a courtesy to interested parties. I find that makes them feel better about the safety of the product. As for Section 1, you must name the product as stated on the label, the responsible party for commercial distribution (e.g. the customer-distributor on the label) and of course an address and phone# to contact.  Inform your private label customer and ask them for the phone# to call - they might tell you to list yours. Describe the product as “non-hazardous mixture in an aqueous dispersion” or something generic as @CedarS
    suggests. Someday I’ll have to lead a seminar on this topic.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    January 28, 2022 at 9:09 pm in reply to: Dimethyl oxazolidine preservative? Calling Dr. Phil.

    Brylcreme!  “A little dab’ll do ya!” Thanks, Phil. 

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    January 28, 2022 at 2:52 pm in reply to: Montanov 202 and additional behenyl alcohol…. What is logical?

    @Abdullah you are right: a little GMS helps build lamellar liquid crystal network favorable to viscosity and stability build. @Graillotion you are also on the right path there, MM or CP (nearly same thing) will add a softer sensorial finish. More esters, less fatty alcohol is my advice. As for using behenyl OH as builder, you are just as well off with cetearyl alcohol, and the cetearyl costs less. Behenyl OH does contribute the softer sensorial though. 

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    January 27, 2022 at 9:08 pm in reply to: Your skincare “guilty pleasure”

    I’m with @Mondonna on the mallow root extract in hair-care. I was skeptical when a client insisted on  it, then tried it myself and said to self “why I’ll be, this is like a natural answer to behenyl quats, my hair is soft as silk.” Also algae does even better! After taking a late summer swim in Lake Michigan (algae is highest then) my hair is softer than it is all year. Now, how to extract that and sell it ???

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    January 27, 2022 at 9:02 pm in reply to: Performance testing lab recommendations??

    Bria Research Labs in Chicagoland performs claims testing par excellence at fair price. Mark Chandler’s ACTS Testing in Delaware does excellent sensorial testing at very fair prices also.

  • Perry is on the mark - again - in his summation. Behenyl quat chloride (BTMC) is less expensive than the methosulfate by many $$$, and it is the alkyl quaternary that does the heavy lifting, not the anion. BTMC is the better, cheaper emulsifier too, especially when you use the 85% wax (dissolved into the water at 85 - 90C.) As for efficacy, the behenyl quats lend a softness to hair and skin substantially better than the lower homologs STEARAC, CETAC. Summing up: friends, don’t let friends use BTMS-25 or 50 when BTMC 85% can be had. 

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    January 27, 2022 at 8:50 pm in reply to: Polyquaternium-10 - when to add to formula?

    Actually @GeorgeBenson & @AMS, Perry had it right the first time and…err..the third time(I dunno…I lost count here). ALWAYS add PQ-10 or cationic guar or any cellulosic to COLD (RT) water first, use high-speed mixing to hydrate, then proceed only when that is 100% accomplished.  The article mentions “adding to surfactant systems” in the global sense, not the order of addition sense. It also fails to mention critical elements of dilution-deposition activity with these cationic polymers. Add an amphoteric surfactant to the batch immediately after the cationic gum hydrates, then a nonionic and the anionic last. This hydrotrope/cationic matrix complexes with the anionic vesicle aiding polymer deposition. MINIMIZE or AVOID salt addition, why we use low-salt amhoterics instead of CAPB or a sultaine. Salt intereferes with deposition.  If using a low MW PQ-10 like the 400 series, pair with a high MW dimethicone (350 cst minimum). Counter-intuitive but that’s what works.     
    As for the alkali-gel trick (hack?) with guar HPTC mentioned by @ketchito
    allow a good 30 minutes high-speed mixing to pass before adding and don’t add much. This hack also works for pure guar and HP guars too. Just make sure not to use sodium borate or…well…you’ll find out why. Think rubber ball. 

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    January 27, 2022 at 6:21 pm in reply to: Triethyl citrate as an Odour Absorber

    Depending on your gauge for “effectiveness”, triethyl citrate does reduce body odor to the extent it fixates, preventing it from exuding as a volatile (what we call “stank”). Compared to AL-Zr salts: weaker for sure but then these are drug actives here in the USA. As for your wax issue: sounds like it is creaming with the underarm sweat and its salts.  Yikes! Better reach for the butylene glycol.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    January 20, 2022 at 9:23 pm in reply to: Topical hair spray/presevative

    That is really low Aw, so if you use any preservative at all it wouldn’t need much. Dr. Phil?

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    January 20, 2022 at 9:07 pm in reply to: contract manufacturing agreement

    The Contract Manufacturing Agreement covers (or should cover) many aspects of the mission including quality standards, payment terms, over-run allowances, conflict resolutions, formulation development, IP/brand exclusivity, path to ownership. etc, etc. I’ve seen some that were 20 -plus pages long. The one I drafted years ago was less than 8 pages. If I can dig it up I can send it to you but don’t hold your breath waiting. Full disclosure: I was in the contract manufacturing biz for 35 years so my agreement is from the “other side”.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    January 20, 2022 at 8:57 pm in reply to: Carbomer Ultrez Polymers

    Or, @Alishajadhwani, you can check out the many Synthalens and Polygels at http://www.3vsigmausa.com/personal-care-rheology-modifiers and learn about the chemistry of carbomers, neutralization, cross-linking, and grades. Be advised “polyacrylate” is identical to “carbomer”. Its an Italian thing. Same as Lubrizol Carbopols only without the benzene.

  • @Abdullah it may seem obvious but: omit the EDTA and try a little citric acid/sodium citrate buffer. Not as good a chelant as EDTA but at the level you describe a little dab will do you and not a viable interferant with the cationics. A little chelating will not harm a cationic formulation, only a lot will.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    January 17, 2022 at 6:56 pm in reply to: difference between unrefined and cold pressed oil

    They are essentially the same.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    January 17, 2022 at 6:55 pm in reply to: stick Deodorants

    Have to agree with @Graillotion here. Forget the arrowroot too. (Don’t know how that trend got started.) Best alternate is rice starch, and just about any zinc salt: ricinoleate, gluconate, citrate. The last two are the under-rated and less expensive ones. Zn ricinoleate seems to get all the love. 

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    January 17, 2022 at 6:51 pm in reply to: hair detangling spray

    I’m a big fan of Polyquaternium-10 but it will not spray/atomize very well I’m afraid. Better to stick to smaller molecules not polymers for a sprayer. Amodimethicone would be the obvious choice here if the subject of silicone derivatives is still on the table. 

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    January 17, 2022 at 6:48 pm in reply to: About ISO 16128

    The standards proscribed in ISO:16128 to quantify natural origin content should surpass and render obsolete all the others mentioned. It may take a while but the ISO:16128 is fair and quantitatively accurate, far more than  the others. This will take education and public relations to make happen but it should and it will.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    January 17, 2022 at 6:43 pm in reply to: Triethanolamine + Salicylic Acid

    The answer is yes, that product is triethanolamine salicylate, and amine salt not an amide. No problem using it other than the free DEA in TEA if you are using the 85% stock. Switch to 99% and that issue dissolves too.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 31, 2021 at 4:47 pm in reply to: Cyclopentasiloxane suppliers

    EVERYONE is having difficulty obtaining silicones right now. The supply chain for these - especially the cyclics - is distorted and super tight. Price for D5 in many spots is now 400% higher than one year ago, and that’s if you can even get it. Dow-DuPont declared force majeur a while back (why? who knows) and that sent the silicone market into a death spiral of supply where it was already headed. Yeesh! Good luck. I’ll suggest trying the smaller suppliers, like A&B Specialty Silicones in Illinois USA.

  • @frustratednovice As I often like to say: what CAN’T Finsolv TN do? (aka C12-15 alkyl  benzoate) Well….it can’t solvate dimethicone and certainly not dimethicone/siloxane crosspolymer gums. It is miscible with cyclomethicone, just not the other silicones, and that’s the source of your cloud clump headache. Try Plan B - and I cannot say what that might be. 

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 31, 2021 at 4:33 pm in reply to: Depilatory

    What you are noting is the free alkali hydroxide species used to form water-soluble thioglycolate salts with 80% thio (aka mercaptoacetic) acid. We made thioglycolates in situ with these, balancing the calcium hydroxide (add first!) with some sodium thio salt and free alkali. Calcium thio is the safer keratoyltic if I remember - and its been a long while - while sodium hydroxide merely boosts the pH to 12.5 necessary to work fast. Similar to activity of alpha/beta hydroxyacids on the low end of the pH scale, alkali thioglycolates work just as well at pH9 but a LOT SLOWER and that gives them more  time to irritate your skin, thus the pH boost. 15 minutes contact time and wipe away the hair. 

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 28, 2021 at 6:55 pm in reply to: Equipment Supplier Recommendations

    I know of no OEM in America that supplies all of those machines. Best bet is to try the resellers such as Equipnet, Federal Equipment, Loeb Equipment, Aaron Equipment, etc. You can also get outstanding deals at auctions via websites such as Bidspottter.com   Good luck!

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 28, 2021 at 6:49 pm in reply to: Working with Aqua SF-1, any tips?

    @GeorgeBenson, why not use Synthalen W-600 (3V Sigma USA), same INCI, same 30% liquid for easy drop-in use in surfactant systems such as your body wash, but no need to back-acid titrate. Adjust final pH to 5.5 - 6.0 and go easy on the amphoterics, just as you must with Carbopol Aquas. Best means of thickening those pesky sulfate-free APG formulations. Did I mention W-600 costs less per kg too? 

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