chemicalmatt
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The Contract Manufacturing Agreement covers (or should cover) many aspects of the mission including quality standards, payment terms, over-run allowances, conflict resolutions, formulation development, IP/brand exclusivity, path to ownership. etc, etc. I’ve seen some that were 20 -plus pages long. The one I drafted years ago was less than 8 pages. If I can dig it up I can send it to you but don’t hold your breath waiting. Full disclosure: I was in the contract manufacturing biz for 35 years so my agreement is from the “other side”.
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Or, @Alishajadhwani, you can check out the many Synthalens and Polygels at http://www.3vsigmausa.com/personal-care-rheology-modifiers and learn about the chemistry of carbomers, neutralization, cross-linking, and grades. Be advised “polyacrylate” is identical to “carbomer”. Its an Italian thing. Same as Lubrizol Carbopols only without the benzene.
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@Abdullah it may seem obvious but: omit the EDTA and try a little citric acid/sodium citrate buffer. Not as good a chelant as EDTA but at the level you describe a little dab will do you and not a viable interferant with the cationics. A little chelating will not harm a cationic formulation, only a lot will.
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They are essentially the same.
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Have to agree with @Graillotion here. Forget the arrowroot too. (Don’t know how that trend got started.) Best alternate is rice starch, and just about any zinc salt: ricinoleate, gluconate, citrate. The last two are the under-rated and less expensive ones. Zn ricinoleate seems to get all the love.
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I’m a big fan of Polyquaternium-10 but it will not spray/atomize very well I’m afraid. Better to stick to smaller molecules not polymers for a sprayer. Amodimethicone would be the obvious choice here if the subject of silicone derivatives is still on the table.
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The standards proscribed in ISO:16128 to quantify natural origin content should surpass and render obsolete all the others mentioned. It may take a while but the ISO:16128 is fair and quantitatively accurate, far more than the others. This will take education and public relations to make happen but it should and it will.
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The answer is yes, that product is triethanolamine salicylate, and amine salt not an amide. No problem using it other than the free DEA in TEA if you are using the 85% stock. Switch to 99% and that issue dissolves too.
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EVERYONE is having difficulty obtaining silicones right now. The supply chain for these - especially the cyclics - is distorted and super tight. Price for D5 in many spots is now 400% higher than one year ago, and that’s if you can even get it. Dow-DuPont declared force majeur a while back (why? who knows) and that sent the silicone market into a death spiral of supply where it was already headed. Yeesh! Good luck. I’ll suggest trying the smaller suppliers, like A&B Specialty Silicones in Illinois USA.
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@frustratednovice As I often like to say: what CAN’T Finsolv TN do? (aka C12-15 alkyl benzoate) Well….it can’t solvate dimethicone and certainly not dimethicone/siloxane crosspolymer gums. It is miscible with cyclomethicone, just not the other silicones, and that’s the source of your cloud clump headache. Try Plan B - and I cannot say what that might be.
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What you are noting is the free alkali hydroxide species used to form water-soluble thioglycolate salts with 80% thio (aka mercaptoacetic) acid. We made thioglycolates in situ with these, balancing the calcium hydroxide (add first!) with some sodium thio salt and free alkali. Calcium thio is the safer keratoyltic if I remember - and its been a long while - while sodium hydroxide merely boosts the pH to 12.5 necessary to work fast. Similar to activity of alpha/beta hydroxyacids on the low end of the pH scale, alkali thioglycolates work just as well at pH9 but a LOT SLOWER and that gives them more time to irritate your skin, thus the pH boost. 15 minutes contact time and wipe away the hair.
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I know of no OEM in America that supplies all of those machines. Best bet is to try the resellers such as Equipnet, Federal Equipment, Loeb Equipment, Aaron Equipment, etc. You can also get outstanding deals at auctions via websites such as Bidspottter.com Good luck!
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@GeorgeBenson, why not use Synthalen W-600 (3V Sigma USA), same INCI, same 30% liquid for easy drop-in use in surfactant systems such as your body wash, but no need to back-acid titrate. Adjust final pH to 5.5 - 6.0 and go easy on the amphoterics, just as you must with Carbopol Aquas. Best means of thickening those pesky sulfate-free APG formulations. Did I mention W-600 costs less per kg too?
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Yup, 4.0% is the monograph level for surgical scrub, so what state of “reasonable” are you looking for? From start, I cannot fathom what utility glycerol does at 0.02% w/v. DELETE it. The concentration of primary surfactant is way low. Your builder Ammonyx LO is OK (1.33% solids there) but the APG (compatible) at only 1.0% solids (50% solution correct) is not providing much in way of cleansing is it? Triple that material.
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Do you mean AMP-Acrylates/ XXX copolymer or crosspolymer? That is a family of rheological polymers, not a specific one. e.g. Rapidgel EZ1 (3V Sigma) is AMP-Acrylates/Isodecanoate Crosspolymer (& PEG-6). There are others too. AMP is there as a neutralizing amine.
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Disodium EDTA has a decently good formation constant for Fe++ in that pH range. Tetrasodium EDTA does not.
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That subnatant (bottom layer) is likely Polyquaternium-7 as you suspected. The whitish stuff may be the sodium PCA complexing with PQ-7 and salting out somehow. Rid yourself of the PCA or reduce it to a negligible level. Then again that cloud may just be fragrance or vitamin E unsolvated. If you are using more than 5.0% PQ-7 (standard 10% active) and do not have a decent level of hydrotrope - and CAPB is the only one I see here - the PQ-7 will salt out, actually “gel out” as you’ve observed, to bottom, as you reduce pH. Those “droplets” are likely from the Sorbithix. Without numbers though consider this only a guess.
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Usually a little slimy-ness in a conditioning shampoo with PQ10 is a good thing: means you are getting favorable cationic sensorial deposit on dilution. Having said that, you may be facing an order of addition problem or that polyricinoleate builder is the culprit. Always disperse & completely hydrate PQ-10 into the water first, then add the amphoterics immediately afterwards - and you have two there. Anionic surfactant next then any builders. This way you optimize coaceravation of the PQ-10. As for that polyricinoleate builder, switch it out for another builder such as an amide and observe any difference in “slime.”
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@Abdullah you have me there. I can only guess how much acid is in lemon juice squeezed. Probably more than I know.
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This material will be largely lecithin, similar to soy “foots”. Phosphatidyl choline and phosphatidyl serine mainly. I am curious as to how the brand can name or use that INCI, but when you are Estee I suppose you can do a lot of things other manufacturers can’t.
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If it is FCC grade citric the answer is yes. How much? Depends upon your acid reflux tolerance.
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If using standard TEA 85%, then use 1.4 : 1.0 carbomer, but since you asked what I really think then save yourself a lot of money and time by DELETING the TEA and Carbopol 940 altogether and switch to Rapidgel EZ1 from 3V Sigma.
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…or you may just disconnect from Evonik and use Monolaurin from Colonial Chemical (glyceryl laurate), which is doing all the heavy lifting there.
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Outstanding idea there @Rimbaud16: good old DOSS, the HI&I formulator’s best friend for decades. Kudos to you for thinking outside the box. Makes one think of all those Gemini surfactants used in HI&I that personal care formulators continue to ignore. A bit heavier on the irritation index, but that is easily resolved in formulation.
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@Hanson25 : much easier, use Synthalen W600 (acrylates copolymer) at pH 5.5 - 6.5. Liquid drops right in and then throw in any sulfate-free surfactant you want in there, just go easy on the amphoteric.