chemicalmatt
Forum Replies Created
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@PhilGeis Yup. These days at least. I wouldn’t put it on a label though lest the wrath of everyone here descends upon me in a shower of shame.
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Microcrystalline and ceresine are chemically practically identical, just one is more refined in linear alkanes than the other. Having said that, there is WAY too much of both in this formula. This works better as a hair pomade than a cleansing balm. Substitute out most or all of the of the petro-waxes and put into this light ester liquids and soft waxes and you’ll see an improvement. On another note: why have a film-former such as Softisan 649 in a cleansing balm? Defeats the purpose, no? Also, why the preservative? No water, no need.
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Ever try Antifoam? This is simethicone and quite miscible with your formula.
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Increase the propylene glycol concentration and the pH of this and you should be OK. I’m with @Pharma here too: why the Tween 80? Are you solubilizing a lipid component we do not see? Not seeing a preservative either. Troubling.
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I’ll add here that xanthan gum: anionic resin while polyquaternium-10: cationic resin. These two do not make good dancing partners.
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You are asking for a lot here, @Ahlmeyer
Let’s just address the violet dye question. As it always happens in formulation, it DEPENDS ON THE APPLICATION medium, e.g. leave-in? rinse-out? shampoo? serum? “Blond shampoo”? Do you mean a color lift or brightening product? Sensient’s advice for 0.10% is spot on then. I’d be reluctant to use much more unless purple hair is the intention. -
Absolutely! Use as your primary emulsifier. Works like a charm, but better when used with cetearyl alcohol & ceteareth-20 builders and especially if you plan on emulsifying silicones. Used alone it works fine too but can’t sustain higher oil loads (>5.0%) without builders. BTW, behenetrimonium chloride works even better as a primary and less expensive too.
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My answer is: none of the above. Add glycerin/butylene glycol at 1:1 ratio up to 10.00% total addition, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor oil or PEG-25 Castor Oil up to 8.00% addition. You may then be able to add some lipids to this formula. Ignore all the rest.
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You need to put octocrylene back into that formula if you want to sell in the USA. That is the indicated stabilizer for avobenzone that is also an approved sunscreen. If you are outside the USA then add Uvasorb HEB (Iscatriazone)from 3V Sigma. Film-former: have you tried Cosmosurf DDG-20 from Surfatech? All-natural organic chemistry and makes for a water-resistant product.
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@Graillotion I’ve used that PG-3 stearate and GMS combo at 3:1 and it worked really well. Add just a small amount of ceteareth-20 for extra stabilizing and you should be good to go. Also, using the GMS-SE will help this too.
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Not only is the cetrimonium chloride quat MOST DEFINITELY incompatible with the carbomer, but that protein isn’t helping things either. I’m unsure what you are striving to achieve here too. What’s with all that PVP? Why have both propanediol and propylene glycol in same formula? They are redundant, so just use the less expensive glycol. BTW, what exactly is “rice curl complex”?
I am curious. -
Increase only the amphoteric betaine and add an amide like @tecnico3vinia suggested. Decrease or delete the salt at same time; this is over-salted already. Also DELETE the glycerin or you will get nowhere. Glycerin is always a viscosity killer!
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All of these are pretty robust. My only advice is to be sure you have a rheological additive to maintain suspension during filling (hot fill sticks) and shelf life (roll-on lotions.) In the sticks, those hectorite clays do the job. Lotions are a bit trickier but hydrated silica or Veegum can work.
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Even more relevant is this: the C12/C14/C16/C18 “cut” is the most reliably ubiquitous fraction from coconut, palm and corn oil, the traditional renewable feedstocks for all saturated fatty acids, at least since beef tallow became unfashionable. The fraction mass ratio goes C18 (stearyl)>C16(cetyl)>C12 (lauryl)>C14(myristyl). Its just nature, folks! Plus the fact Proctor & Gamble has cut more of this than any other manufacturer on the planet for over a century. Until the Malaysian and Indonesian entities took shape 25 years ago, P&G ruled the market. I am a personal fan of cetyl alcohol for most formulating needs.
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We’ve held marbles in suspension using Synthalen W-600 (acrylates copolymer) in a sulfate-free surfactant blend body wash at pH6.0. Don’t ask me why - just for the fun of it.
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@Dtdang If I interpret your question correctly here: there should not be any problem (in efficacy?) if that ascorbyl ether is formulated at pH 4.5 or lower.
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I cannot fathom how kaolin would be a better and less expensive abrasive than dicalcium phosphate, which was used traditionally in these dentrifices. Is there an issue using phosphates in E.U.? If you are to “put clay in the mouth” then try out the perlites from Imerys, a Spanish company. More abrasive than kaolin.
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Negative, the glycol ether works best. If it is oil creep then perhaps try adding a bit more tribehenin and cooling that gel REALLY SLOWLY. If that crystal structure doesn’t form right you will get the syneresis you see there.
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@JonahRay Are you sure its oil not glycerin popping out? Switch out the glycerin with dipropylene glycol and see what happens.
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Xanthan will have the highest Yield Value for thixotropy of the two you mention but carbomer will outpace all of these and since you are already using Dermacryl 79 why not use carbomer and neutralize at same time as the other polyacrylate? - a win/win with matchy-matchy acrylic chemistry. (Again, like I been sayin’, xanthan gum is a substance abuse problem worldwide!)
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@majibo You’ll want to heed the advice of @grapefruit22 in reducing the polyol content there, but I think your main problem here is too much reliance on so very little emulsifier and hoping xanthan gum can carry the burden of rheology stabilization. The total polyglyceride fatty acid (PEFA) content of Croda’s NatraGem EW (try to use correct spelling next time, please) is less than 2.0% solids in your formulation. This is a mixed/multi ester PEFA, the least likely to stand on its own. You need a buddy emulsifier in there. I’d employ a discrete monoester PEFA such as Polyglcyeryl-4 Stearate, Polyglcyeryl-6 Oleate, etc. or another chemistry such as a fatty acid carboxylate. I just presented a paper on this subject so I know whereof I speak. Croda’s lit - like so many other specialty chemical suppliers’ - must always be subject to critical analysis. In this case that NatraGem system will not work on it’s own without a helper. Finally, xanthan gum is another substance abuse problem among cosmetic formulators and I think there needs to be an intervention.
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Carbomers are much, much more robust than everyone thinks they are, especially the less crosslinked ones. Do not worry, use your homogenizer. Regarding order of addition for ALL polymer resins and gums natural or synthetic: allways disperse in water alone first! The exception are the HASE thickeners, those can usually drop in later. I never understood the whole “disperse (resin or gum) in glycerin or oil or whatever then add to batch.” Madness.
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Here’s a hack for allantoin solvation: urea greatly increases allantoin solubility in water. Add them both: one a skin protectant the other a skin softener.
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I’ll second that motion from @Syl. You are looking at using the Arianor semi-permanent dyes (also Sensient products) onto the fur of dogs? I don’t think that is wise. If you must do this, why not use instead an optical brightener such as Optiblanc SX from 3V Sigma USA, disodium distyrylbiphenyl disulfonate? You’ll need only 0.50% maximum in there, it is not so anionic as to interfere with any surfactant, and is non-toxic. This brings out the color highlights no matter what color the fur.