chemicalmatt
Forum Replies Created
-
I’d like to add here that once you pass a certain threshold with kaolin concentration (~15%) it takes on rheology attributes that overcome all other contributors. Up to that point I’ve found that most grades work in synergy with carbomer - wierd but true - in spite of those divalent earth metals in kaolin it does not dissolve or dissociate….until it does.
-
I’ll second @Fekher: that is one of the least expensive and easily obtained esters, a virtual commodity item. You’ll see it used in massage oils too for same reason.
-
@Anca_Formulator, even though I am a dyed-in-the-wool carbomer/acrylics guy - there are no substitutes in my opinion - I cannot be silent here: have you tried cellulosics or just plain modified cellulose?
-
Lactic acid 88% is the Standard grade supplied by industrial firms. The solid and 80% you only see in lab source catalogs. This is why Evonik used that assay. My own experience has been 3.5 SPDA : 1.0 LA 88% resulting in pH 5.0 the sweet spot for emulsion stability. If you are also adding alkyl quats - and most hair conditioners will - that pH drops down to 3.5 - 4.5. That’s OK too.
-
Duly noted Dr. Phil! I’ll bet you could do a webinar on this topic - what RIPT studies intend, etc., etc.
-
@Fekher Synthalen W600 can work with LESS surfactant more readily than with MORE surfactant, as may Aqua SF-1. Only diff is W600 costs much less.
-
You guys are off by a factor of 10. Its $2000 monthly for a 6-month starter, even less for an annual subscription. The Clean Beauty peeps should find it most useful as it conveys and checks against all those greenie-groups’ sanctions. Wouldn’t want to piss off Gwynn Paltrow with your emulsifier now would you?
-
Just plain old ammonium carbonate. Add amorphous silica to keep from agglomerating. Cheap stuff.
-
Nope, you plug in your formula like an Excel sheet and the software scheme tells you if an ingredient is allowed in that nation, or beyond CIR allowable limits or disrespected by Sephora, goop, Target, Whole Paycheck, etc. It makes no judgements, only checks against all nations’ laws and all those retailer ingredient sanctions. All at same time and updated monthly.
-
What @Perry said, but I suspect you may still need a rheology stabilizer in there anyway with that APG. Try hydroxymethylcellulose or polyaquaternium-10 or an acrylate copolymer. Also, Olivem 300 is redundant with PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate as a refatting agent. Choose one or the other and save some coin.
-
@PhilGeis @Perry @Anca_Formulator, I’ll extend my thanks to Phil here too, but I have to add I saw a demo of the Good Face Project software while at Cosmoprof North America last week and it impressed the heck out of me. Check it out at http://www.thegoodfaceproject.com
-
@vitalys thanks for all these links. You are a generous soul and tribute to the science of personal care.
-
@PhilGeis Yup. These days at least. I wouldn’t put it on a label though lest the wrath of everyone here descends upon me in a shower of shame.
-
Microcrystalline and ceresine are chemically practically identical, just one is more refined in linear alkanes than the other. Having said that, there is WAY too much of both in this formula. This works better as a hair pomade than a cleansing balm. Substitute out most or all of the of the petro-waxes and put into this light ester liquids and soft waxes and you’ll see an improvement. On another note: why have a film-former such as Softisan 649 in a cleansing balm? Defeats the purpose, no? Also, why the preservative? No water, no need.
-
Ever try Antifoam? This is simethicone and quite miscible with your formula.
-
Increase the propylene glycol concentration and the pH of this and you should be OK. I’m with @Pharma here too: why the Tween 80? Are you solubilizing a lipid component we do not see? Not seeing a preservative either. Troubling.
-
I’ll add here that xanthan gum: anionic resin while polyquaternium-10: cationic resin. These two do not make good dancing partners.
-
You are asking for a lot here, @Ahlmeyer
Let’s just address the violet dye question. As it always happens in formulation, it DEPENDS ON THE APPLICATION medium, e.g. leave-in? rinse-out? shampoo? serum? “Blond shampoo”? Do you mean a color lift or brightening product? Sensient’s advice for 0.10% is spot on then. I’d be reluctant to use much more unless purple hair is the intention. -
Absolutely! Use as your primary emulsifier. Works like a charm, but better when used with cetearyl alcohol & ceteareth-20 builders and especially if you plan on emulsifying silicones. Used alone it works fine too but can’t sustain higher oil loads (>5.0%) without builders. BTW, behenetrimonium chloride works even better as a primary and less expensive too.
-
My answer is: none of the above. Add glycerin/butylene glycol at 1:1 ratio up to 10.00% total addition, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor oil or PEG-25 Castor Oil up to 8.00% addition. You may then be able to add some lipids to this formula. Ignore all the rest.
-
You need to put octocrylene back into that formula if you want to sell in the USA. That is the indicated stabilizer for avobenzone that is also an approved sunscreen. If you are outside the USA then add Uvasorb HEB (Iscatriazone)from 3V Sigma. Film-former: have you tried Cosmosurf DDG-20 from Surfatech? All-natural organic chemistry and makes for a water-resistant product.
-
@Graillotion I’ve used that PG-3 stearate and GMS combo at 3:1 and it worked really well. Add just a small amount of ceteareth-20 for extra stabilizing and you should be good to go. Also, using the GMS-SE will help this too.
-
Not only is the cetrimonium chloride quat MOST DEFINITELY incompatible with the carbomer, but that protein isn’t helping things either. I’m unsure what you are striving to achieve here too. What’s with all that PVP? Why have both propanediol and propylene glycol in same formula? They are redundant, so just use the less expensive glycol. BTW, what exactly is “rice curl complex”?
I am curious. -
Increase only the amphoteric betaine and add an amide like @tecnico3vinia suggested. Decrease or delete the salt at same time; this is over-salted already. Also DELETE the glycerin or you will get nowhere. Glycerin is always a viscosity killer!