Bobzchemist
Forum Replies Created
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“b” is completely correct
but “a”, not so much. HA isn’t an acid like sulfuric or Lactic, with a fixed MW. Hyaluronic acid is actually a polymer, so…I’ve heard that lower MW versions can penetrate skin, but I don’t think I believe that. -
@DavidW, this is specifically where a micro-emulsion is really called for. You don’t need to solubilize the oil, you can just make an O/W emulsion with tiny enough droplets that they can’t be seen.
If you have high enough shear energy available, you can make a micro-emulsion using the same kind of technology/ingredients that are used to emulsify flavor oils into soda.Otherwise, you’ll need to use enough emulsifier to give your high-shear process a chemical boost towards making the droplets smaller. -
@Belassi brings up a good point. Ideally, you’ll be able to buy one of the moisturizer bases that are specifically designed to accept the addition of EO’s post-emulsification without breaking.
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This is the sort of thing that consultants charge a pile of money for - and pretty much every company considers these documents proprietary.
I might be able to help you write one or two, but an entire facility’s worth? That’d be a full-time job for 6 months or so. -
Without researching it too much, I’m going to come down on the side of “not legal”, at least in the US. Particularly since your base cream is patented.
What you want to do is contact a diy website, a wholesaler, or even a private label manufacturer and buy a few gallons of a basic moisturizer, add your ingredients, test for micro, stability, and safety, and then you can go ahead and start selling. -
HBA?
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I like Sensient’s SOLUBILISANT LRI, but there are others. Where are you located?
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Thickness in a W/O emulsion has a huge dependence on both the number and the size of the internal phase droplets, with the viscosity of the external (oil) phase coming in a close third.
The viscosity of a W/O emulsion that has many tiny water droplets is typically lower than the viscosity of a W/O emulsion that has fewer, larger droplets (at least until you get enough water into the formula that the tiny droplets are packed tightly together)So, it’s reasonable to think that if adding 1% of an emulsifier dropped your viscosity, the most likely scenario is that your water droplets were made smaller.But this also means that what Bill pointed out is critically important. Processing variations can easily overwhelm formula changes in W/O emulsions, so to be able to evaluate formula changes at all, you need to keep your process precisely the same each time. -
You are trying to do something that is impossible, at least with your current ingredient dec.
What you are starting out making is first a water-in-oil emulsion. There’s nothing wrong with that, and lecithin alone might work to stabilize it. But as you keep adding water, the lecithin/oil interface between the water droplets gets thinner and thinner, and at some point the interfaces start to break. A water-in-oil emulsion can only stand a little bit of this before it inverts, and becomes an oil-in-water emulsion, which is exactly what’s going on here. Since lecithin is completely unable to sustain an oil-in-water emulsion by itself, your whole batch falls apart.To keep your formula stable, you are going to need to add at least one, and preferably two or more, oil-in-water emulsifiers. You might even want to look into emulsifiers that will let you make a micro-emulsion (really tiny oil droplets), which will be more fluid and yet possibly more stable than an ordinary macro-emulsion. -
Are you trying to make a Pickering emulsion? Or is it just a suspension where the oil has adsorbed onto the starch?
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If I remember correctly (it’s been a while), those terms refer specifically to what happens when you put the pad of your finger into the gel and then slowly draw it away. It’s all a part of texture analysis.
“Pickup” has to do with how much gel adheres to your finger as you pull it away from the gel.“Stringiness” has to do with how the connection between the gel and your finger appears as you slowly move your finger - does the gel stretch out and form a “string” or does it quickly and cleanly separate?You might find this helpful: -
Also, not an US FDA approved colorant, as I recall. Guaiazulene is, but not Azulene.
Therefore, you must always take care to describe it in all your ad copy, packaging and even internal documents as performing another (non-drug) function, with the color being an incidental byproduct. For example, Tocopherol is always an antioxidant, Sodium Copper Chlorophyllin is always a deodorant, Saffron is always a fragrance, etc. -
You should be able to get a statement from your supplier stating nitrosamine content. Typically, TEA has none detectable.
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Where are you located?
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This is called a hammer mill. If you use something like this to dry-grind the powders in your liquid foundation, you don’t need the high-shear of the other mills to wet-grind those powders instead.
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shar-Inc-Disperser-Dispersion-Mixer-/161582654144
Cowles, Hockmeyer, Shar, Ross, and Day are all manufacturers of this type of high-shear disperser. -
Micro testing is also important
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Annie, please start a new post.
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Neither. It’s better to use a colloid mill, or a Cowles dissolver, or even a ball mill.
Homogenizer doesn’t have enough shear. 3-roll mill does not work well with water-based grinds.You can only get away with using a homogenizer if you dry-mill your pigment/powder mixture first, using a mikropulverizer, or a fitzmill, or equivalent. -
Pemulen + Carbomer will work.
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According to the FDA, yes.
But if they do, the USDA will yank the certification, and require them to immediately take all of the “organic”, “certified organic” and even “contains organic ingredients” off of the product label and all promotional materials.Ont the other hand, the FDA might make you pay a fine. Which would you rather risk? -
It’s an inter-agency conflict, unfortunately. Putting “Organic” in the ingredient label is mandatory according to the USDA regulations for certified organic products, but it’s not correct according to the FDA’s regulations for cosmetic products. Most natural companies follow the USDA rules, because the consequences are more severe for not doing so.
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Why not use buffer?