[Abdullah]

https://www.makingcosmetics.com/Magnolia-Bark-Extract_p_534.html?locale=en

[Abdullah]

When i googled about Magnolia Oficinalis to purchase some and use as preservative there was written preserved with phenoxyethanol. 

[Abdullah]

Pharma said:

1%/MW of Zn*MW of zinc PCA

MW of zinc PCA 321.59484000
MW of zinc 65.38

So 4.9188565310492g of zinc PCA gives us 1g zinc. 
Am i correct?

[Abdullah]

Have you tried Dimethicone/​Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer?

[Abdullah]

PhilGeis said:

I’d not use with sorbate.  No purpose with two organic acids and the benzoic acid/surfactant phenomenon is not found with sorbic acid.

What is this benzoic acid/surfactant phenomenon? 

If i us sodium benzoate+phenoxyethanol +0.2 EDTA in shampoo, What ratio would give best results? 

[Abdullah]

Use phenoxyethanol instead of benzyl alcohol. It is milder, stronger for gram negative bacteria at will grow most in body wash and have less impact in viscosity than benzyl alcohol.

[Abdullah]

An aluminum tube also works for products that are air sensitive in an inexpensive Way.

[Abdullah]

ngarayeva001 said:

It won’t be stable even if you add antioxidants and keep it in freezer. Retinol is utterly unstable. I am talking about actual retinol not derivatives. Tretinoin is even worse.

What makes retinol unstable? 
Water

Air

Heat

Light 
Or something else? 

[Abdullah]

Write the percentage of each ingredient. And how much money you are ready to spend?

[Abdullah]

kconley said:

I’m new to all this and I have a lot to learn. The formula is a body wash and has Decyl Glucoside (and) Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, and coca betaine as the surfactants. And it has Olive Oil PEG-7 Esters aka Olivem 300 as a solubilizer. I don’t have Olivem 300. I was wondering what I can use instead? I read I can use a Shea Water Soluble to replace the Olivem 300. It’s 3 percent of the formula. Can i use polysorbate 20? Can I make Shea Water Soluble with 50% water and 50% shea. Its a lot of work for 3% of the product.  but I don’t have an alternative on hand except poly 20. 

Use SLES/CAPB 3:1 and don’t to make a good shampoo. You can latter test all that other  stuff to make sure that they are not working. 

[Abdullah]

PhilGeis said:

Follow supplier’s choice for raw material storage.   What are the drums - are they lined?

The drums are also HDPE. 
What do you mean by lined?

[Abdullah]

ngarayeva001 said:

Retinol is often supplied in CCT + antioxidants 

Thanks 
Will it be stable if we don’t add antioxidants?

[Abdullah]

PhilGeis said:

I’m not with my colleague Abdukkah.  You can not be sure the packages are “safe” unless you confirm and control the risk.  That said, risk for Germall is low but, phenoxyethanol may be at risk.  Package size is a critical factor.  
Major guys conduct analysis of preservative in stability, and you should as well.  I understand this may be too expensive for many - so look for precdent - similar products from major cosmetic guys - formula, package composition, esp. size, etc.

Thanks for your information. 
I currently purchase phenoxyethanol in 20kg drums, store them in original package, fill 1kg HDPE bottles from that and use from these 1kg Bottles in my products. So what materials are safest for phenoxyethanol to be stored in? 

[Abdullah]

Lotion suppliers use HDPE  and PET plastics and raw material suppliers use these two for raw preservatives. Mine uses HDPE. These are the most common. So you can be sure thse two plastics are safe. Other plastics are rarely used. 

[Abdullah]

This stock of ingredients that you currently have, have you made any facewash with all of them in it without color change?

If no and some of these raw materials you have purchased recently and use it for first time then the problem may be in that particular batch of that raw material. 

If yes then maybe the equipments was contaminated with something with color. 

Have you made this face wash again in another (preferably clean plastic) equipment and saw if the color change or not?

[Abdullah]

What are the complete list of your ingredients, what amount each and what is the final pH. 
That way we can know what is happening.

[Abdullah]

Decyl Glucoside is not a strong foaming. Use SLS or SLES for strong foaming and some CAPB if you want mildness. Use silicone or polyquats for conditioning.
Cleansing Products does not moisturize the skin. Use moisturizer for that purpose. 

[Abdullah]

Openion i mean

[Abdullah]

Were you making the same product, in same equipment the same way and it didn’t change the color in the past and is changing now? 

Have you changed the supplier of any ingredient? 

How much EDTA are you using? 
Slmi needs a good amount of chelating agent. Try %0.2 and see what happens.

What material is the equipment and for how much time your face wash is in that equipment? 
Facewash sometimes change color in metal equipments.

Are you using any EO or fragrance oil? 

[Abdullah]

ngarayeva001 said:

Dimethicone 5 isn’t volatile. It can be heated and I always add it to heated oil phase. You can’t heat cyclomethicones (D5, D6), phenyl trimethicone, and anything that’s volatile (cetiol ultimate, isododecane etc). If you do, you will notice it starts steaming. It’s pretty obvious when it happens.

Thanks, that is very good to hear.

[Abdullah]

abierose said:

ngarayeva001 said:

@abierose, I don’t think they are right re dimethicone 500. It’s not too sensitive.

I wouldn’t be surprised if they are not right about that…I’ve came across a few weird/incorrect pieces of information on their site in the past ???? And when I do, I come here and ask the experts! ????

Yeah, i was surprised when i saw in there website that SLS is milder than SLES.

[Abdullah]

jemolian said:

If it doesn’t contain a volatile component, normally i add it into the heated oil phase if applicable. Sometimes they would have recommendations on processing guidelines on the tech sheet if any. 

Thanks 
I currently use dimethicone 5 cst at cool down phase and it work well. As adding it to oil phase would be easier i wanted to make sure that nonvolatile silicones are not heat sensitive. 

[Abdullah]

Pharma said:

As an example: Eucerin in the EU can sell a product called ‘AtopiControl’ which is derived from and resembles the word ‘atopic dermatitis’, a condition for which this line has been designed. However, in Switzerland, that name is already too close to a disease’s name and hence, the name had to be truncated to ‘AtoControl’.

Mind, that product range isn’t intended as drugs to treat atopic dermatitis but as supplemental care for that and related skin conditions. Depending on regulations/country, this alone is already a tabu for cosmetics.

Thanks

[Abdullah]

MarkBroussard said:

@Abdullah

I understand your motivation, but the regulations are clear in this regard.  If your product is not an OTC, then you can’t use the dissease name associated with your product in any way.  Some companies take the chance hoping that the FDA will not become aware of the violation and fly under the radar until they get a violation notice.

The DermaHarmony product you are referencing above is indeed an OTC-registered product.  They list Active Ingredient: 2% Salicylic Acid, so they are in compliance.

I got the point.
Thanks

[Abdullah]

MarkBroussard said:

Why would you be putting the name of a skin condition (ie: disease) as part of the name of your product if not with intent to deceive consumers?

Reminds me … I need to dust that formula for Covid Cola off the shelf!

Because my product actually works for that skin condition (eczema) but as a startup company i don’t want the complications of being a drug manufacturer. 

It is the same reason as Paula’s choice that doesn’t claim acne treatment with %2 salicylic acid liquid at pH 3.5 but another company claim’s that in a soap with %2 salicylic acid at whatever pH that soap is.