Hair

Shampoo makes hair dull

Posted by KarolinaPL on October 13, 2021 at 6:26 am

I create a
shampoo for dyed hair without SLS and SLES. I tried 3 different surfactants: Sodium C14-16 Olefin
Sulfonate, Sodium methyl 2-sulfolaurate (and) disodium 2-sulfolaurate, Ammonium
Lauryl Sulphate. The most problematic at the moment are Sodium C14-16 Olefin
Sulfonat and Ammonium Lauryl Sulphate. While washing they foams and remove dirt well, but after washing
the hair becomes tangled and dull. What can I change here ?

Water

42,05

Sodium C14-16
Olefin Sulfonate (39% active matter)

Cocamidopropyl Betaine(30 % active matter)

cocamide dea (84% active matter)

2,5

NaCl

0,45

Dekaben BS (Aqua, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate

Polyquaternium-7

Belsil adm 6300 e
(Amodimethicone/MorpholinomethylSilsesquioxaneCopolymer,Trideceth-10)

Silsoft Q 9 (Aqua (and) Silicone Quaternium-18 (and) Trideceth-6 (and) Trideceth-12)

1,5

PEG-7 GLYCERYL COCOATE

1,5

Water

46,5

Ammonium Lauryl Sulphate

Cocamidopropyl Betaine(30 % active matter)

Lauryl Glucoside ( 50% active matter)

cocamide dea (84% active matter)

1,2

Amodimethicone

Dekaben BS (Aqua, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate

NaCl

0,3

ariepfadli replied 2 years, 6 months ago 4 Members · 10 Replies

10 Replies

Abdullah

Member
October 13, 2021 at 9:09 am

They are not the problem.
The problem is too much betaine, DEA and silicone
ariepfadli

Member
October 13, 2021 at 10:41 am

Its seem you formulation too much Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, which really good to cleaning hair with excellent detergency, it make low possibility for your silicone and cationic material to deposit to your hair, and make it dull,try total surfactant( SOS, betaine,ALS, and cocoamide DEA around 12-18%, you will see the difference
KarolinaPL

Member
October 13, 2021 at 11:36 am

Abdullah said:

They are not the problem.
The problem is too much betaine, DEA and silicone

Thank you for your answer. I tried to lower DEA and betaine but it doesn’t smooth hair anyway. I’m not sure about the silicone reduction… The client wants the shampoo to not tangle the hair and leave the hair smooth, so silicones sound like the best option for me
KarolinaPL

Member
October 13, 2021 at 11:51 am

ariepfadli said:

Its seem you formulation too much Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, which really good to cleaning hair with excellent detergency, it make low possibility for your silicone and cationic material to deposit to your hair, and make it dull,try total surfactant( SOS, betaine,ALS, and cocoamide DEA around 12-18%, you will see the difference

For my first formula, total surfactants amount by active matter is 15.7, and for the second, 16.2. So it’s in the range of 12-18%
ketchito

Member
October 13, 2021 at 12:23 pm

@KarolinaPL If you’re using a 10% solution of PQ-7, you could try increasing it to 2-3% (or replacing it by Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride at 0.2-0.3%). You could also try replacing your silicone system by either Dimethicone (1000 cSt would be OK) or Dimethiconol (for instance, DC 1784 which is 50% Dimethiconol) or a mixture of both, at a total silicone content of 2-3%.
ariepfadli

Member
October 13, 2021 at 3:16 pm

KarolinaPL said:

ariepfadli said:

Its seem you formulation too much Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, which really good to cleaning hair with excellent detergency, it make low possibility for your silicone and cationic material to deposit to your hair, and make it dull,try total surfactant( SOS, betaine,ALS, and cocoamide DEA around 12-18%, you will see the difference

For my first formula, total surfactants amount by active matter is 15.7, and for the second, 16.2. So it’s in the range of 12-18%

1st formula: 11.2 (SOS)+6 (CAPB)+1.6(DEA)+1.5(PEG 7 cocoate =20.3 total surfactant

2nd formula: 8.75 (25%*35% ALS)+3.9 (CAPB)+ 1(lauryl Glucoside) +1(coco-Dea)=14.6

Try to adjust you pH arround 6-6.5
KarolinaPL

Member
October 14, 2021 at 5:25 am

ariepfadli said:

KarolinaPL said:

ariepfadli said:

Its seem you formulation too much Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, which really good to cleaning hair with excellent detergency, it make low possibility for your silicone and cationic material to deposit to your hair, and make it dull,try total surfactant( SOS, betaine,ALS, and cocoamide DEA around 12-18%, you will see the difference

For my first formula, total surfactants amount by active matter is 15.7, and for the second, 16.2. So it’s in the range of 12-18%

1st formula: 11.2 (SOS)+6 (CAPB)+1.6(DEA)+1.5(PEG 7 cocoate =20.3 total surfactant

2nd formula: 8.75 (25%*35% ALS)+3.9 (CAPB)+ 1(lauryl Glucoside) +1(coco-Dea)=14.6

Try to adjust you pH arround 6-6.5

thank you for correcting me, i don’t know how i calculated this
ariepfadli

Member
October 14, 2021 at 6:24 am

its simple,just multiply your percentage in formulation with total active matter, do for all kind of surfactant in your formulation
ex: 28 x 40%= 11.2%
KarolinaPL

Member
October 19, 2021 at 6:47 am

Thank you all. Finally I made formula with SOS ( becouse of better foaming) . I added 18% AOS, 8 betaine, 5,5 lauryl Glucoside and 1%Lauryl Lactyl Lactate. It’s much better, it doesn’t make my hair dull but it doesn’t make hair smooth either. Anything else i can add? I was thinking about another silicone but don’t know which one will work here
ariepfadli

Member
October 23, 2021 at 6:11 pm

Add PQ 7, PQ 10 , or cationic silicone emulsion like silsoft emu340 or adm 6060