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Penetration enhancer for L-Ascorbic acid that doubles as OIW emulsifier compatible with pH 3?
I’ve seen one study where 1% Polysorbate-20 improves penetration in-vitro 3x fold at what I assume is neutral pH in “Penetration Enhancing Effect of Polysorbate 20 and
80 on the In Vitro Percutaneous Absorption of L-Ascorbic
Acid “.Seems like a sensible choice for a serum type formula with a a small 1-3% oil phase, it could emulsify Tocopherol and at the same time potentially improve penetration, or perhaps penetration at pH 3 is strong as is?
Another route could be to find a pH stable gelling agent with some emulsification capability, or explore other emulsifier such as Laureth-23. Thoughts?
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1 Reply
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Your surfactant level has to be below CMC to act as a penetration enhancer. Agree?
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