Need more detangling properties

Hair

Need more detangling properties

Posted by stylesbycw on January 13, 2019 at 5:35 am

Hi everyone if anyone can assist me with this formula that would be great…….. I am formulating for ethnic kids hair and want to make this leave in spray more conditioning and better detangler:

88.4% water
3% coconut water ‘
.5 coconut oil
.5argan oil
.5shea butter
1.2 creammaker anio
1.3 gelmaker emu
.3 vitamin e
1 cetrimonium chloride
1 hibicus flower extract
.5 oat amino acid
.6 benzylalcohol dha
.2 fragrance

any assistance would be much appreciated

Microformulation replied 5 years, 1 month ago 8 Members · 10 Replies
10 Replies

stylesbycw

Member
January 13, 2019 at 5:37 am

forgot 1 ingredient polysorbate 20 .5%
Tauriel

Member
January 13, 2019 at 3:47 pm

Hello there,
There is something called a brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine. Although it is marketed as as having better conditioning properties than cetri, it can be used as the sole conditioning agent. There is also behentrimonium methosulfate(btms-50), which many people are using. Either of these can be used along with the cetri (in a lower percentage as it is a leave in conditioner). Hope this helps.
ngarayeva001

Member
January 13, 2019 at 8:56 pm

You need cationic ingredients. Replace emulsifiers to BTMS 50 and add polyquat 7 or 10.
OldPerry

Member
January 15, 2019 at 12:53 am

For a leave-in product it doesn’t matter as much that the ingredient is cationic or not. Plus Cetrimonium Chloride has been deemed not safe in leave-in products above 0.25%.

Cationic ingredient safety

Polyquat 7 may help, but for leave-in, detangling products Silicones are where it’s at. Cyclomethicone, Amodimethicone, Dimethiconol, etc.
OldPerry

Member
January 15, 2019 at 12:54 am

Relevant - https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/4888/ingridient-that-can-enhance-detangling-and-softening-in-a-conditioner-formulated-for-kinky-hair#latest
Gunther

Member
January 15, 2019 at 11:10 pm

Perry said:

For a leave-in product it doesn’t matter as much that the ingredient is cationic or not. Plus Cetrimonium Chloride has been deemed not safe in leave-in products above 0.25%.

Cationic ingredient safety

Polyquat 7 may help, but for leave-in, detangling products Silicones are where it’s at. Cyclomethicone, Amodimethicone, Dimethiconol, etc.

@Perry does cyclomethicone help detangling, given that it quickly evaporates?
OldPerry

Member
January 16, 2019 at 4:39 pm

@Gunther - Yes. It doesn’t evaporate immediately. It evaporates a bit slower than water.
http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/download?doi=10.1.1.570.5341&rep=rep1&type=pdf
Dr Catherine Pratt

Member
March 23, 2019 at 3:22 pm

You can buy some nice natural silicones now too! @Microfomulation did you know that?
MarkBroussard

Member
March 23, 2019 at 4:36 pm

Try Sensoveil SIL from Chemyunion
Microformulation

Member
March 23, 2019 at 6:37 pm

I know of “natural” silicone replacements, especially for D5, but I think it is a stretch to say that they have “natural” or even “naturally compliant” silicones. While the uproar is undeserved, they are not endorsed under the major standards,