Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating General Help with my first attempt | Face Cleanser (Mild, hopefully?) TIA

  • Help with my first attempt | Face Cleanser (Mild, hopefully?) TIA

    Posted by kaspire on May 10, 2024 at 10:30 pm

    Phase A 58.1% Distilled Water

    10.0% Glycerin

    1.0% HEC

    0.5% Hydrolyzed Silk

    1.0% Colloidal Oats

    Phase B 15.0% Cocamidopropyl Betaine

    5.0% Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate

    2.0% Cocamide DEA

    Phase C 5.0% Polysorbate 20

    0.5% Fragrance

    0.5% Phenoxyethanol

    1.0% Aloe Vera Extract

    0.3% Polyquaternium-7

    0.1% EDTA


    kaspire replied 2 days, 17 hours ago 4 Members · 11 Replies
  • 11 Replies
  • Camel

    May 10, 2024 at 10:55 pm

    You didn’t mention a specific problem, so I’m going to assume you are just looking for critiques or suggestions. Glycerin is generally considered unnecessary in a cleanser, but if you want to keep it in there, I would recommend reducing it to around 0.5%; 10% is quite a lot and it will most likely impair your foam performance. You might also consider reducing the total active surfactant matter of the formula if gentleness is your primary goal, and I don’t think you will need that much Polysorbate-20 to solubilize your fragrance. Try cutting the amount in half; using around 2-2.5% should give you a 1:4 or 1:5 ratio with the fragrance, which is the typical recommendation for this solubilizer. Finally, you might want to consider a more robust preservative system. Adding some Ethylhexylglycerin would be a good boost, but Phenoxyethanol is not a broad-spectrum preservative on its own, as it has limited activity against yeast and mold. Good luck!

    • kaspire

      May 10, 2024 at 10:57 pm

      OMG thank youuuuu. Appreciate you!

    • Heath0o7

      May 11, 2024 at 6:19 am

      I could be wrong, but I think phenoxy may be Incompatible with polysorbate-20. I can’t remember if it was 20 or 80, but maybe @PhilGeis could tell us. If it’s compatible, I’d still recommend adding either Potassium Sorbate or sodium benzoate to cover YMF as Pheno+EHG is still not broad spectrum enough. Be aware though, your pH would have to be below 6.5 if using sorbate or below 5 if using benzoate.

      Even though the surfactants you’re using are mild, I agree with @Camel it’s best to reduce the active surfactant matter to between 4.5% - 6% (you can experiment to find out suitability).

      I’d also not recommend using the extract in the formula if it’s for personal use as it does nothing unfortunately. I hope this helps. Good luck! Making cosmetics is really fun!

      • kaspire

        May 11, 2024 at 9:40 pm

        Hey thanks! I’ll check with my local suppliers for those preservatives.

        Also, I combined 2% Polysorbate 20, 0.5% Fragrance Oil, 0.4% Allantoin and 1% Aloe Vera Extract in a small saucer then added it to my beaker that has the combined surfactant and water mix and it broke the thick consistency it had! I was so confused. It turned so much thinner and I dont know what happened. 😞

        • Heath0o7

          May 11, 2024 at 10:51 pm

          The issue could be the fragrance oil and the Aloe Vera extract. Fragrance oil is known for thinning the viscosity. What I’d recommend is either getting rid of the extract as it does nothing and will save you some time and adding a Thickener like Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride (about 0.5%) and see how it goes. Add a drop of an acid like citric/lactic Acid to your water then blend the GHTC slowly into the water to be soluble. You’ll start to see it thicken the more you add. Also, I tend to add my EDTA last before I adjust the pH and once I start adding my acid the formula thickens a bit and after 24hrs it thickens really well.

          Another tip is add the Allantoin in the water phase by heating the water to 50°C/122°F then add it. It’s easier that way. Then start adding the rest of your water phase ingredients

          • kaspire

            May 12, 2024 at 1:09 am

            Okay will do that and attempt to make this again. Thank you very much! 😊

  • ketchito

    May 13, 2024 at 6:20 am

    Try removing Polysorbate-20 (soemtimes your surfactant system is enough) and Aloe Vera Extract.

    • kaspire

      May 15, 2024 at 4:50 am

      Hey thanks! I’ll do that too. I will attempt to make this again with all your expert advice. Appreciate you all!

  • kaspire

    May 16, 2024 at 1:12 am

    Hey everyone. I made this again and followed your advices and I got a better consistency this time! I was just wondering if the foaming on the very top is normal? The rest of the mixture looks great. I notice it started foaming a bit when I add the Citric acid to adjust the PH.

    • Heath0o7

      May 16, 2024 at 1:56 am

      Glad to hear! Yes, that’s normal. It will go away within 24 hours or so

      • kaspire

        May 16, 2024 at 9:40 pm

        Awesome thanks so much!

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