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matte lipstick base
Hi everyone
I would like to create a super matte lipstick base and I have a couple questionsmy ingredients are:carnauba wax 9%candelilla wax 11%shea butter6%murumuru butter 15%castor oilsunflower seed oiljojoba oilgrapeseed oilmeadowfoam oilavocado oilblack currant oilapricot kernel oil(all oils will make up 48%)tocopherol T50 1%pigments 10%is this a good recipe for a matte base? anything else I need to add such as dimethicone, isododecane? kaolin?would T50 be enough to prevent the lipsticks from going rancid? or should i add anything else to preserve them?If anyone is interested in helping me formulate this and also a liquid lipstick I would be more than happy to pay for the services. I need to do this at home because I cannot afford 5K lipsticks per sku that labs are currently asking. My email sperez21216@hotmail.comthank you! -
5 Replies
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First, it’s almost always more cost effective to buy lipstick base, rather than make your own (unless you’re running your own factory).
Second, the way to make a glossy lipstick matte or satin is to add a material that evenly breaks up the smooth, glossy film on the lips. Typically, that is a microsphere, so that you can matte the lipstick and improve the skin feel at the same time.Using a pre-made base and pre-ground pigment dispersions make formulating lipstick much easier - you do still need to remember to keep the total oil absorption of all your powders as close as possible from shade to shade so that the skin feel stays similar across your line. -
Thank you very much
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I have been trying for months to make a lipstick base, without too much success and tons of frustration.
I’ve got two problems: a) when the lipstick comes out of the mold, it shows streaking and layering which is very baffling for me. I’ve tried pouring at 70C or at 80C. Same results. So I’m wondering if it is because I have too much carnauba that I’m adding at 10%. I’ve seen that the professionals have a very low amount of carnauba. They seem to use lots of rice bran wax, jojoba wax, etc…b) the base lacks slip and glide. Maybe a bit of magnesium stearate will solve the problem but I haven’t had the chance to try it yet. So all this to say that I’m sort of ready to give up and buy my base. @bozchemist, some cues would be very appreciated.Thank you so much. -
There’s a reason why all of the lipstick manufacturers have only a few lipstick bases, even the major ones - it’s really difficult and time consuming to come up with a good one.
On top of that, unless you can afford to buy your waxes by the pallet-load, it’s usually cheaper to buy a pre-made base, even if you wind up tweaking it with waxes and/or emollients to personalize it.@Luminessence, streaking and layering can be from poor suspension, pouring too cold, or pouring with too great a temperature difference between the molten lipstick and the lipstick mold.I’ve worked at places where they’ve had to pre-heat the mold, pour the lipstick, and then quickly transfer the filled mold to a freezer/cooling tunnel, all to get the right texture and suspending ability.A lack of slip and glide is usually a problem with the ratio between your wax content and your emollient content. It can also be an issue if your emollient cascade is too heavily weighted towards fast-absorbing emollients. Magnesium or aluminum stearate won’t usually help, unless you can get the stearates to help gel the stick which would let you reduce the wax level.If you absolutely must make your own base from scratch, first get 3 or 4 base formulas from the usual culprits, make them exactly, and then evaluate them. After that, make some small changes to each, and re-evaluate. You will be surprised at how much difference a small change makes - lipstick base formulas are notoriously finicky. -
@bozchemist, thank you so much for the detailed information.
I’ll pre-heat the mold to see what are the results. My wax % is at 20 and the rest castor oil, sweet almond, etc. Do you think I should reduce the wax? I’ll try it anyway. If that fails, I’m going the pre made base route.Thank you again.
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