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In this cleanser, will GMO or EGDS function as surfactant or refatting ingredient?
I am confused again.
If a cleansing product has in active percentage
7.5% SLES
2.5% CAPB
0.05% guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
1% glyceryl oleate or glycol distearate
Preservative
Water
pH 5.1Both glyceryl oleate and Glycol distearate are refatting and moisturizing ingredients for skin and hair but they are also surfactants and they emulsify lipids.
My question: in above formula is, will GMO or EGDS function as surfactant emulsify and remove lipids from skin & gair or it will deposit on skin & hair with aid of guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride and function as refatting and moisturizing ingredient?
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4 Replies
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@Abdullah Glyceryl oleate and EGDS are two different type of molecules; although both are esters, their molecular structure is quite different. EGDS is more hydrophobic, would not pack properly within the emulsion if being used as a surfactant/co-surfactant, and has a higher melting point. This makes EGDS being used as a suspension in shampoos for aesthetic reasons. Glyceryl oleate is more surface active, and can participate in emulsions, as surfactant or co-surfactant, depending on the type of emulsion.
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@ketchito thanks
Got this point.Two more questions.
1. If EGDS doesn’t function properly as surfactant in cleansing product, will it deposit on skin with help of cationic surfactant and function as refatting and moisturizing ingredient or it is just for aesthetic purpose?
2. If GMO can functions is surfactant or co surfactant in cleanser product, will it function as surfactant and remove oils from our hair or skin or it will deposit with help of cationic guar and function as refatting and moisturizing ingredient?
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1. You need to have both species in the same (liquid) form for assisted deposition to happen, but EGDS is usually floating around as crystals
2. Glyceryl oleate forms W/O emulsions; if you use it as emollient for instance, in a shampoo and in the presence of cationic guar, then guar could flocculate some Glyceryl oleate’s droplets and help them deposit during rinsing
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ketchito said:1. You need to have both species in the same (liquid) form for assisted deposition to happen, but EGDS is usually floating around as crystals
2. Glyceryl oleate forms W/O emulsions; if you use it as emollient for instance, in a shampoo and in the presence of cationic guar, then guar could flocculate some Glyceryl oleate’s droplets and help them deposit during rinsing
Thanks 👍
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