Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair I’d pull out my hair, but then there would be none left to shampoo….LOL

  • I’d pull out my hair, but then there would be none left to shampoo….LOL

    Posted by Anonymous on November 19, 2016 at 6:59 pm

    I am trying to make a shampoo using Ecocert approved ingredients and organic or sustainable plant based ingredients whenever possible. It is separating after a few weeks of sitting. I have read so much and learn a lot from reading the forums. Using Perrys excel spreadsheet has made it so much easier. Thank you Perry!
     So What am I not getting? I am having separation issues! Is my mistake mixing the phase C surfactants with the oils and poly, then adding it to my base causing the separation? I have tried it adding each individual surfactant to the water phase and I am still getting clouding which will eventually separate more slowly, from the rest of the base. I added the Capryl/capryl as another chemist suggested, but I am not happy with the feeling of hair after use and would like to remove it from the formula. My last attempt was this formula and is as follows.

    Phase A Add 50% of water amount and heat to 70C.Add to Guar and mix with stick blender to rehydrate. Let rest for 30 min.
    Bring remainder of water to 180* and hold for 10 minutes. Add B group ingredients to heated water. Add Lavender hydrosol to water/preservative mix.
    Mix group C ingredients together. Mix (D) ingredients together with stick blender. Add (C group to  D and mix with spoon as to not incorporate air.
     Add Phase C/D mix to water phase. Add F ingredients.

    What am I doing wrong???????

    ashish replied 7 years, 5 months ago 6 Members · 13 Replies
  • 13 Replies
  • Anonymous

    Guest
    November 19, 2016 at 7:06 pm

    I also added the Cocamidopropyl Betaine to the base mix as the final surfactant, after the addition of mixing the water phase with the oil phase. Sorry I left that info out of the original post.

  • belassi

    Member
    November 19, 2016 at 9:46 pm

    2.5% oil: madness! This is supposed to be a shampoo? Or a conditioner?

  • Anonymous

    Guest
    November 19, 2016 at 10:16 pm

    I understood that jojoba is really more a wax than an oil. I have also used less oils @ 1% and still had this problem.

  • Anonymous

    Guest
    November 19, 2016 at 10:20 pm

    I’ve made shower body wash with Optiphen™ as the preservative and 1% oils and it has held together, so far…

  • belassi

    Member
    November 19, 2016 at 11:46 pm

    A far better course would be to use a water soluble or dispersible refattening agent.

  • Anonymous

    Guest
    November 19, 2016 at 11:52 pm

    such as Caprylic/Capric triglycerides?

  • belassi

    Member
    November 19, 2016 at 11:57 pm

    No, that’s another oil.

  • Chemist77

    Member
    November 20, 2016 at 9:12 am

    I kinda guess that @Belassi is pointing at something like Lamesoft PO 65, or you could use a PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate too or anything similar. But totally agree with @Belassi, that’s a crazy amount of oil in a shampoo. Tone down for more realistic approach. 

  • Bill_Toge

    Member
    November 20, 2016 at 10:38 am

    also, polysorbate 80 at that level will completely knacker your preservatives

  • David

    Member
    November 20, 2016 at 1:29 pm

    If you want ecocert why is 4,5% polysorbate in there and EDTA?
    and is sod. ol. sulfonate ecocert? not sure
    Cut the oils get an ecocert chelate and an ecocert surfactant mixture.
    Build from there. If you like organic oils - make a conditioner and you have a nice combo.

  • DinaAruni

    Member
    November 24, 2016 at 7:45 am

    Hai actually i have a problem like you, even not exactly the same. I have separation issue when cocobetain is added at final step. So i use homogenizer for mixing cocobetaine with water phase then i add to surfactant phase, it can increase the viscosity too. I know its really hard to formulate shampoo with oil but right now i am trying to formulate a natural active ingredient called Apisclap (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (&) Apium
    Graveolens (Celery) Seed Extract) at 3 % which is a big amount of oil. I havent use homogenizer in my shampoo formula with apiscalp so maybe i will tell you if i have a separation issue 

  • Anonymous

    Guest
    November 30, 2016 at 1:54 pm

    Thanks to you all for the input. I appreciate your wisdom!

  • ashish

    Member
    December 1, 2016 at 7:55 am

    Caprylyl glucoside act as a solubilizesr as well as surfactant, u can increase qty. of it to solubilize oil content in ur formula instead of adding Polysorbate 80. But, better way to reduce or eliminate oils. Other ecocert conditioners are available with many of the suppliers rather than oils. Another point to mention here that conc. of guar gum which is too high as this formula looks like a conditioner.

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