• Formulating

  Hair Conditioner not Thickening!

  Posted by Landmark on July 26, 2015 at 3:08 pm

  Hello everyone;

                         I will appreciate some advice on the following formulation. I’m sure that some ingredient is being added to wrong phase here. The Heated Phase B result a thick gum, not liquid oil phase, then when I add B to A it finish as a milky liquid and no a thick conditioner consistency. 

  
  

  Phase A

  
  

  Water C.S     

  Natrosol 330 CS    0.3 %

  Hydrolized Soy Protein 1 %

  Pantenol      1%

  
  

  Phase B

  
  

  Tego Beatain F50  10%

  Cosmowax P-MBAL 3%

  BroxWax P/P      2%

  Polyaldo 10-1-S   2%

  Olive Oil               1%

  Avocado Oil         1%

  Sweet Almond Oil 1%

  
  

  Phase C (Cool Down) 

  Larquat   3%

  Microkill  0.75

  Citrus Fragance  0.5%

  Keratrix  2%

  
  

  Phase A is heated to 75 Phase B is heated to 75C

  Phase B is added to Phase A with Stirring , then Phase C is added to Phase AB  

  
  

  Any input will be highly appreciated.  Regards, Javier                                    

  Landmark replied 8 years, 9 months ago 3 Members · 4 Replies

  • conditioner
• 4 Replies

• 

  Bill_Toge

  Member

  July 27, 2015 at 2:01 pm

  leave out the Tego Betain F50

  it won’t mix with the rest of the ingredients in phase B, and it’ll severely thin your Natrosol gel

  just out of interest, why is it in there?

• 

  Landmark

  Member

  July 27, 2015 at 10:23 pm

  Hi! Bill,

             I should start my previous post with more details. The starting formula, which is 

  Smooth & Protected Conditioner with Laraquat™ (Formulation #HC-38) fro Lonza worked perfect, then I tried to improve it adding Oils, Panthenol, Hydrolyzed proteins… After I made this post, changed my procedure and tried to add the betain in the cool down phase, but the issue show up again! This issue arise before Phase C. I’m suspecting that I’m using the wrong combination of emulsifiers. Here is the link of the initil formula which works fine. 

  https://www.ulprospector.com/en/na/PersonalCare/Detail/761/389946/Smooth-and-Protected-Conditioner-with-Laraquat-Formulation-HC-38?st=1&sl=34632497&crit=a2V5d29yZDpbSEMtMzhd&ss=2&k=HC-38&t=HC-38
  

  Probably I should add another emulsifying system.  Thanks! Javier
• 

  ozgirl

  Member

  July 27, 2015 at 10:38 pm

  I would try removing the Tego betaine and increase your emulsifying wax.

  What were you hoping to achieve by adding the betaine?

• 

  Landmark

  Member

  July 28, 2015 at 12:25 pm

  I’m trying to emulate a good conditioner from the market which has Cocamidopropyl betaine on its label, but in a later trial I left the CAPB for Phase C, but the issue is noticed when I add the Phase B to Phase A. With the initial starting formula (Lonza) the mix thicken as soon I mix the phases, but with the new ingredients it just stay milky. The changes are Phase A: Phantenol 1%, Hydrolyzed Protein 1%. Then Phase B heated as well has Olive Oil 1%, Almond Oil 1%, Avocado Oil 1%. I will try adding more emulsifying wax. Thank you!!! Bill and Ozgirl.

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