Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating 165 as a Standalone Emulsifier? Emulsifying Issues

  • 165 as a Standalone Emulsifier? Emulsifying Issues

    Posted by SkincareAddict98 on May 9, 2024 at 12:24 pm

    Hi all! Was just wondering if 165 (Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG 100 Stearate) can be used as a standalone emulsifier? I’m trying to make a really thin sprayable emulsion, with just a small 6% oil phase (mostly silicones to give a nice slip and skin feel), so I didn’t add any of the thickening fatty alcohols (cetyl alcohol, cetearyl, etc.) that I normally would to my thicker emulsions. However, even with high shear homogenization, tiny oil droplets would eventually float to the top of the liquid even after cool down. I did my usual 1:5 to 1:4 emulsifier to oil ratio with the 165, which normally works when I have a fatty alcohol present, so am hoping you could give me some insights as to why this is happening! Is 165 really meant to be paired with a fatty alcohol?

    (Btw, I’m a relatively new cosmetic formulator. Been working in the industry for only 1 year, so I’m excited to hear what you more seasoned formulators have to say!)

    Graillotion replied 1 week ago 2 Members · 3 Replies
  • 3 Replies
  • Graillotion

    May 9, 2024 at 2:43 pm

    O/W stands for oil in water. 😅

    Silicone…is neither of these. There is a whole slate of emulsifier that specifically target the difficult to emulsify silicones.

    Of course, you can find 10,000 formulas with 165 and SOME silicone (including my own), but generally this is something I spend a lot of time massaging.

    Consider adding some branched chain esters, some C-12-15 AB and a co-emulsifier of sucrose stearate in the water phase.

    Many of these little tweaks can assist in accomplishing a positive final outcome, as long as you use just a small amount of the silicones. Otherwise….look to add a silicone emulsifier.

    Good Luck.

  • SkincareAddict98

    May 10, 2024 at 8:19 am

    This is really helpful. I’ll minimize the silicone content and replace with branched chain esters instead + add a co-emulsifier (since we don’t have access to silicone emulsifiers here, and I need to work with what is available). Thanks for the insights!

    • Graillotion

      May 11, 2024 at 6:12 pm

      Please understand my comment on branch chained ester….I guess could have a twofold meaning. My primary intent was….they help to ’emulsify’ silicones. However…the concept of replacing them…also fits. Albeit…I am one of those, firmly in the camp of….there are no replacements for silicones (yet). Just good marketing stories for the gullible to consume.

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