Should You Formulate a Scalp Serum? A Look at the Science
Walk through any beauty aisle or scroll TikTok for five seconds and you’re sure to see a scalp serum. Brands ranging from The Ordinary to Prose are offering scalp serums promising to boost hair growth, “detox” the scalp, balance the microbiome, and create the perfect environment for thick, healthy hair.
Sounds great. But does the science support the hype?
We always take a skeptical lens to any product category that suddenly explodes in popularity, especially when the claims are wide-reaching and vaguely worded. Whether you’re looking to formulate a scalp serum or just curious about what they are, let’s look at what scalp serums really do, what they can’t do, and how they stack up against the biology of the scalp.
The Scalp ≠ the Skin
It’s easy to think of scalp care as “skincare for your scalp,” but the biology is meaningfully different:
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The scalp has a high density of sebaceous glands and hair follicles and the skin is thicker than other parts of the body
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It has a unique microbiome, influenced by oil production and occlusion from hair and styling products
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Conditions like dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, and some forms of hair loss are linked to microbial overgrowth, inflammation, and hormonal shifts
What Do Scalp Serums Claim to Do?
Most scalp serums fall into one or more of these categories:
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Hydrate or soothe the scalp
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Balance the scalp microbiome
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Support follicle function and reduce shedding
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Stimulate new hair growth
Some products make soft claims like “create a healthy scalp environment,” while others go all in with “clinically proven to boost hair density.” Let’s break those down.
What the Research Says (Including the Microbiome Angle)
The study by Trüeb et al. (2020) highlights the role of the scalp microbiome in both healthy anddiseased states, especially the presence of Malassezia species (a type of yeast) and their link to dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis.
A few key takeaways:
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A disrupted microbiome may contribute to scalp inflammation, which in turn can affect follicle health
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There’s a growing interest in modulating the microbiome (via antimicrobials, prebiotics, or postbiotics), but evidence is early-stage
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Most scalp serums on the market don’t disclose any microbiome-specific testing, so claims about “balancing the scalp” are more speculative than proven
In other words, the microbiome may be a valid area of research, but for now, it’s mostly being used as a marketing hook, not a functional claim backed by clinical data in the finished formula.
What Ingredients Are Common in Scalp Serums?
Here’s a breakdown of what you’ll typically find, and what the science says:
| Ingredient Type | Examples | What It Can Do | What’s Missing |
|---|---|---|---|
| Botanical extracts | Caffeine, ginseng, saw palmetto | May improve circulation or reduce DHT in vitro | Evidence in actual formulas is limited or inconsistent |
| Peptides | Acetyl tetrapeptide-3, copper peptides | Some data supports follicle stimulation | Often used at low concentrations; expensive to test in vivo |
| Humectants | Glycerin, hyaluronic acid | Help hydrate the scalp | Hydration ≠ hair growth |
| Exfoliants | Salicylic acid, PHA | Help clear buildup, reduce flaking | Can be irritating in leave-on formats |
| Niacinamide | – | Anti-inflammatory, sebum-modulating | No direct link to hair regrowth in humans |
| “Microbiome-friendly” ingredients | Prebiotics, fermented extracts | May support skin barrier | Lacking strain-specific or formula-level data |
Do They Actually Stimulate Hair Growth?
Here’s the truth: topical hair growth is difficult to achieve outside of well-studied actives like minoxidil. Most scalp serums do not contain proven drug-level ingredients and can’t legally make those claims.
That said, some serums may:
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Improve scalp hydration
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Reduce visible flaking or oiliness
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Slightly improve the look or texture of thinning hair
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Create conditions that support healthier growth (e.g., by reducing inflammation)
Just don’t expect a serum to regrow lost hair or replace clinical treatment. If that were the case, it would be sold as a drug, not a cosmetic.
So, Are Scalp Serums Worth Formulating?
It depends on the formula and your goals.
Potential claims:
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Gentle relief for a dry, itchy, or flaky scalp
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Overall scalp hygiene or post-styling residue removal
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A lightweight, leave-on format that doesn’t interfere with styling routines
Existing technology supports the above benefits but the reality is so do other existing products like medicated shampoos and conditioners (both rinse-off and leave-on). If you’re venturing into claims like hair regrowth, clinically significant density increase, or microbiome correction you’re crossing into unverified science and even drugs.
Bottom Line
Scalp serums aren’t all snake oil but they’re also not miracle solutions. Some offer legitimate support for scalp comfort or maintenance, but most claims go far beyond what the ingredients or research can back up.
Scalp serums are on-trend and if they resonate with your customer and align with your product line then they may warrant consideration. However, be careful with claim substantiation and be realistic about the benefits.
