[Vnnil]

Chapter 4 of Soap Manufacturing Technology, edited by Luis Spitz, is an excellent starting point.

[Vnnil]

Lecithin could work. You might need to tweak the formula to get the right texture/hardness.

[Vnnil]

Propylene glycol tends to reduce viscosity of conditioners. Depending on its function, you could substitute it for glycerin.
Also, hydrolyzed keratin and Ethylhexylglycerin tend to destabilize conditioners.

[Vnnil]

Have you considered other emulsifiers? Allergic reactions to glucosides
are not uncommon, and other ingredients can feel more moisturizing.

As
for emollients, there are many options, depending on desired
attributes, target audience and cost: natural waxes or butters, castor
oil, etc.

By the way, Clariant has various vegetable alternatives to petrolatum/lanolin.

[Vnnil]

Adding citric acid/sodium citrate helps with sorbic acid oxidation 

[Vnnil]

The warning might have to do with the level of free formaldehyde in the DMDMH.

Edit: Glydant 2000 has a very low level of free formaldehyde. 

[Vnnil]

It’s easier to emulsify and won’t change the feel as much as the 1000 cst.

You could also blend them, depending on the sensorials you’re aiming for.

[Vnnil]

Another option could be Plantasens Olive LD, which reportedly reduces soaping.

Personally, I’d go with 5-20 cst dimethicone.

[Vnnil]

You can add 10-15% of water to lower the freeze point.

[Vnnil]

Is ACRYPOL ELT 20 pre-neutralised? I don’t see a neutraliser in the formula.

[Vnnil]

Try 2.0% active CETAC + 5.0-6.0% cetyl alcohol + 1.0% GMS

[Vnnil]

Switch to nonionic emulsifier 

[Vnnil]

Switching to 100% nonionic emulsifier will make a big difference.

Xanthan gum could also help, but if you add it in the first step the concentrated emulsion will be even thicker.

[Vnnil]

Unless you have very specific reasons to develop an emulsifying system by yourself, I would recommend using the silicone emulsions already present on the market. Many can be incorporated in shampoos and are very easy to use.

Also, take a look at polymers like Carbopol SF, which can aid in the stabilization of silicones in anionic surfactants systems.

[Vnnil]

Strong bases cause allantoin to decompose.

Also, that’s a lot of allantoin! It will probably recrystallize over time (even though betaine improves its solubility).

If you used less, you could add it after neutralizing the polymer.

[Vnnil]

Under certain conditions, thickening polymers can interact with polar oily materials. That’s why dispersing them in hydrocarbons/specific esters is recommended.

However, I haven’t experienced any problem when dispersing them in vegetable oil (so far). Give it a go.

 

[Vnnil]

Seems like a standard conditioner formula to me.

[Vnnil]

Don’t forget Potassium Sorbate/Sodium benzoate. Cheap and effective.

[Vnnil]

The product you received is probably very old, or not PSO at all.

I have had a liter of PSO for a couple years and, although it has oxidized for sure, it remains liquid.

It seems that supercritical CO2 extracted oils have a far better shelf life, maybe you should look for another supplier. Improving the storage conditions should also help.

EDIT: also, if the standard allows it, adding an antioxidant at the moment of production would be the best. Gallic acid esters and/or TBHQ seem the most effective.

[Vnnil]

This reminds me of linseed oil.

Remember that pomegranate oil is highly unsaturated, perhaps it “drying”, as linseed oil does?

[Vnnil]

My guess is that the Dehydroacetic acid protonates when you add the Citric acid and precipitates out of solution.

[Vnnil]

I am not aware of any particularly important advantage, unless you’re neutralizing a polymer in a formula containing large amounts of ethanol or you’re making hair styling products (check this document).

Why not just use a NaOH solution to neutralize the carbomer?

[Vnnil]

As far as I know, TEA is ok as long as you use a high purity grade (there is growing concern about DEA and nitrosamines formation).

[Vnnil]

Hey @zuzig,

I don’t think you could judge the efficacy of VC-IP based on the apple experiment.

Since the VC-IP molecule has been esterified (to enhance skin permeation and stability), it shouldn’t have antioxidant activity until it has gotten rid of the isopalmitate moieties (which should happen in human skin).