fareloz
Forum Replies Created
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If you check the washes on the market you’ll see that they don’t use Citric Acid, but Lactic Acid instead. And the pH is lower than skin pH, around 4.5 (or I’ve seen even lower)
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Formalin? 😨 Is it even allowed in skincare?
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Obviously the wrong thing with the formula is that it doesn’t have any percentages and manufacturing process
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I am making a dish and I want to add 2tbs of sugar. Will it cause troubles? Will it be too sweet or not enough? There is no answer unless I mention the whole recipe and processing for it.
Same goes to yours question. How could we tell anything if you don’t provide the whole formula and manufacturing process?
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Oils separation. Neither Xanthan Gum nor Glycerin are emulsifiers. What you do is just making a thick gel and then disperse oils as small droplets inside. Since there is no emulsifier with time these droplets stick together, separate and make a coating around lumps of swollen Xanthan Gum.
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Sure it is Niacinamide crystalizes. When toner dries out the water is gone and all solid ingredients become powder, obviously.
One way would be to add a mix of humectants, like Glycerin + some glycols. They will prevent water evaporation so quickly, but still won’t prevent it if you leave it open.
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For myself, I use:
- A mix of Glycerin, Panthenol, Pentylene Glycol, and Propanediol
- Sodium Lactate
- Aquaxyl
- Urea
- HA to thicken it a bit
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A quick google search shows that not vitamin D in general is banned, but vitamin D from specific sources (with reasons) and a brand of vitamin D products. So no, Vitamin D is not banned in EU
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It is actually very high, usually it is close to the preservative.
You can’t get the precise amount of ingredient just by looking at INCI, because INCI is a relative order. Next 2 INCIs are the same, but concentration is different:
INCI 1: Water (96.3%), Glycerin (2%), Propanediol (1%), Xanthan Gum (0.1%), Phenoxyethanol (0.5%)
INCI 1: Water (92.2%), Glycerin (5%), Propanediol (3%), Xanthan Gum (0.3%), Phenoxyethanol (0.5%)
The first is a watery toner, The second is a serum. And although they have different concentration, their INCIs are the same. Without knowing the actual percentage you can’t guess how much of ingredient is inside just by looking at relative order.
Kerastase is a world-wide brand. If manufacturer says it is 3% - then it is 3%, otherwise they can get sued and none of big brands want this.
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AQUAVITA spells almost like a type of vodka in Scandinavian countries
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Water-soluble ingredients are water-soluble. They are not oil-soluble. Water-soluble ingredients won’t dissolve in oils, because they are water-soluble and not oil-soluble.
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You can’t dissolve Xanthan Gum in Glycerin. You can create a suspension (evenly distributed powder in medium).
As a strong humectant Glycerin attracts water from the air. This water wets Xanthan Gum and jellifies it. So I don’t think you can store it as is.
The technique is used only to premix the gum right before adding it to the water, not to store it.
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Don’t you think you have too many emulsifiers in the products, like 3 already? Emulsifiers are surfactants and they can give “soapy” effect (some are well-known for this, like Olivem 1000). And you think of fighting the issue with … adding one more emulsifier to have 4?
HLB has nothing to do with foaming, this metric is just a very rough assumption of how stable you emulsion will be using specific ethoxylated emulsifiers. Nowadays this metric is considered obsolete.
I would suggest to keep your formula minimalistic. Just stick to one chosen emulsifier at reasonable concentration.
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To me it usually doesn’t really matter. The only problem is quicker evaporation of fragrance, so you would need bigger amount of the fragrance.
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Niacinamide together with ascorbic acid (I wonder if Vitamin C is ascorbic acid in your formula) can give Niacinamide Ascorbate with bright yellow color
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Ascorbic acid is very soluble in water. If you have problems that means you have too little of water to dissolve it.
As I see you are trying to make a tweaked Skinceuticals formula. They use Ethoxydiglycol, while you are using Propylene Glycol. AA is more soluble in ethoxy while not really soluble in PG. Plus your percentage of AA is higher (18% comparing to 15% of Skinceuticals).
Ethoxydiglycol is hard to source and it is pricey, so instead of it and PG I can suggest using Propanediol. Ascorbic acid has good solubility in it, but it might take some time to stir.
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1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NjrRxDr30gw
2. Yes, companies always do this. Let’s take a look at classic Head & Shoulders shampoo:
INCI: Aqua, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Xylenesulfonate, Cocamide MEA, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Citrate, Piroctone Olamine, Parfum, Citric Acid, Glycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Salicylate, Limonene, Polyquaternium-10, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Linalool, Sodium Hydroxide, Citronellol, Propylene Glycol, Menthol, Verbena Officinalis Leaf Extract, Citrus Grandis Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Extract, Triacetin, Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract, CI 17200, CI 19140
Sodium Laureth Sulfate - anionic
Sodium Xylenesulfonate - anionic
Cocamide MEA - non-ionic
Cocamidopropyl Betaine - amphoteric
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UPDATE:
It appeared the problem is water. Distilled water apparently is not the same as deionized water. Due to metal ions in water the copper part of Copper PCA was replaced with these free ions. Then copper ions oxidized. The solution was to replace the water source to have deionized water. The good source is water after reverse osmosis filter without remineralization step.
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I suspect your problem is not about thickness of the product, but maybe the soapiness of the emulsifier. Olivem 1000 is known to give the “soaping” effect (when you rub it, it gives you white cast for quite some time and you can’t rub it in for a while), especially in a combination with gums. If so, you can try switching to other self-thickening emulsifier
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Check what commercial hair oils contain to make them light - caprylic capric triglycerides, carbonates, volatile silicones.
But the supplement itself may have a very sticky base.
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I think they just added a lot of fragrance. And Citric Acid is at 3% as they claim.
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why make all these slurries and pre-gels? It baffles me why so many formulators do this
Because it prevents clumps if you do it at home with no special equipment? In my humble experience it works at least for Xanthan gum
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Sodium Phytate is usually used as a chelating agent, not pH adjuster. Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) is more preferable choice.
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Did you adjust the pH BEFORE adding the peptides? Because if you adjusted the pH it can’t change unless something is interacting in the formula. Since you’ve got green color I suspect it is oxidized copper. You need to check what other incompatible ingredients you have
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