Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Some water soluble ingredients work in mysterious ways- or not?

  • Some water soluble ingredients work in mysterious ways- or not?

    Posted by Aniela on October 10, 2024 at 7:33 am

    Every now and then I come across unhydrous products containing either allantoin (some body butters) or ascorbic acid (oil suspension).

    I’m not talking about youtube but about actually sold products.

    I suppose allantoin might be used at max 0.01% as a claim ingredient, but ascorbic acid is used at 23% in The Ordinary’s “Vitamin C suspension”.

    I’ll say that even if applied on wet skin, the actives won’t “play” their role.

    Please let me know if I’m wrong.

    Thank you.

    Aniela replied 3 weeks ago 2 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • fareloz

    Member
    October 11, 2024 at 3:20 am

    Ascorbic acid will dissolve in water that your skin has.

    • Aniela

      Member
      October 11, 2024 at 7:09 am

      Thank you for taking your time to answer @fareloz

      Still, another question, please: The Ordinary says to apply the oil suspension even on top of a different unhydrous product. Considering that oils “keep the water in”, would your previous answer be valid for this situation too?

      Thank you.

      • fareloz

        Member
        October 11, 2024 at 10:12 am

        Yes.

        The oils definitely create an occlusion, but this layer is not bulletproof. It will prevent the absorption, but can’t hold it over time. You can experience it if you apply some oily product and then the TO suspension. It will sting over time when it reach the water in your face.

        • Aniela

          Member
          October 12, 2024 at 1:18 am

          Thank you. Have a lovely weekend🙂

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