[TimMcG]

Here is the formula:
Waxes 24%
Oils/Butters 21.5%

For the water phase, I’m using Aloe Vera Juice at 10%
Distilled water is 30%
Fragrance and preservatives at 2.5%

The emulsifiers I’ve tried is:
Emulsifying Wax NF 8%
PEG-40 HCO 4%

The product initially is clumpy. It does break down rubbing between the palms and it washes out of the hair fine. I was expecting it to be creamier and look better.

I can be more specific on the waxes, oils and butters if it helps. 

[TimMcG]

Pharma said:

TimMcG said:

…Can someone point me to a good resource to calculate the requirements?

If you happen to have a Windwos computer, go to the search bar (the magnifying glass usually on the lower left), type ‘calc’ and hit Enter .

I have a Mac, so the calculator app is in my dock all the time.

But I wasn’t looking for the calculation app. I was looking for a resource to help me determine the HLB values for my ingredients.

[TimMcG]

Check out SoapMakingForum’s Lye-Based Soap Forum section. There are several lengthy discussions on shaving soap. There is also a good video on YouTube from Kevin Devine on different NaOH/KOH ratios. 

[TimMcG]

I forgot to include DMDM Hydantoin in the ingredients. My bad.

[TimMcG]

Fekher said:

@TimMcG stearic acid with coco fatty acid sapofined with combination Koh and NaOh can give verry good shaving soap.

The basis of the shaving soap is stearic acid, beef tallow and coconut oil. There are a few other oils/butters as well. It is saponified with KOH/NaOH. 

Instead of adding a litany of expensive oils after saponification, I was looking to see what modern chemistry could add.