[Sincityfire]

Reminds me of Jessica Simpson’s line of edible toiletries. Sugar based products and got a little bit of controversy, also similar story about bees

https://www.bustle.com/articles/37714-whatever-happened-to-jessica-simpsons-dessert-beauty-line-a-bunch-of-lawsuits-apparently

[Sincityfire]

I’m not from Hawaii but I have used the 98% sodium hydroxide drain cleaner from my hardware store to make soap because it says you could on the packaging and it even came with a recipe. Now I’m not so sure if that was a prudent choice. 

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emma1985 said:

I was thinking maybe the minerals are contributing to redness reduction.

Alternatively, I was thinking the madecassoside may be contributing to its effectiveness. Madecassoside and other Centella Asiatia terpinoids are used extensively in Korean skincare products (Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, etc.)

That’s certainly what La Roche Posay thinks (or wants us to think) -

1. In a study 100% sponsored by La Roche Posay and authored by a La Roche Posay employee:

“madecassoside associated with copper/
zinc/manganese salts decreased significantly (P < .05) the inflammatory reaction“

Although they don’t mention what the control was or what they compared their results to.

They mention that the product used contained 0.3% madecassoside, maybe that is the concentration in the balm too?

Full text: https://www.jaad.org/article/S0190-9622(07)02218-9/fulltext

2. In another study supported by L’Oreal (who owns La Roche Posay):

Cicaplast Baume B5 was compared to a control steroid free hospital made emollient after laser resurfacing.

In the 28 days of study, they observed statistically less erythema at day 3 and 7. 

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ggpetrov said:

You can’t use synthetic polymers together with electrolytes (sepimax Zen). The sodium lactate will broke the polymeric net of Zen. In this case, you should use only natural gums.

I think you might be talking about another polymer like Sepigel, Sepimax Zen is very electrolyte resistant.

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chemicalmatt said:

This material will be largely lecithin, similar to soy “foots”. Phosphatidyl choline and phosphatidyl serine mainly. I am curious as to how the brand can name or use that INCI, but when you are Estee I suppose you can do a lot of things other manufacturers can’t.

Very interesting, lecithin sure does feel amazing on the skin and they definitely do have a very unique name for it too

[Sincityfire]

Abdullah said:

Has anyone else faced this problem?

You will need to copy and paste the website address because the hyperlink doesn’t work.

[Sincityfire]

After skimming through it, they make it seem like using Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate alone will do damage, but all they say is that using Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate correlated with the upregulation of some genes that are annotated with interferon-1 production which in turn is associated with inflammation.

But just because a gene is upregulated doesn’t mean that the gene products the gene is annotated to is going to be directly affected. 

Some things to consider is that this portion of the experiment was done in-vitro using a skin model and that they did not test for actual interferon-1 production in the skin. 

[Sincityfire]

Milady’s Skin Care and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary by M. Varinia Michalun and Natalia Michalun. 

It’s used in esthetician/beauty therapist courses. It is a good book for beginners looking for a foundation in how and why products work on the skin, explains jargon and terminology, has a substantial dictionary of ingredients and what they do. 

[Sincityfire]

Perry said:

@Sincityfire which products are you referring to? You have a link?

Sure, here are the products and their ingredient lists:

• L’Occitane Almond Shower Oil: Vitis Vinifera (grape) Seed Oil, Tipa-laureth Sulfate, Laureth-3, Caprylic/capric Triglyceride, Parfum/fragrance, Cocamide Mea, Propylene Glycol, Sorbitan Oleate, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (sweet Almond) Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (bergamot) Fruit Oil, Helianthus Annuus (sunflower) Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis (rosemary) Leaf Extract, Tocopherol, Aqua/water, Limonene, Coumarin, Linalool

• The Body Shop Hemp Hydrating & Protecting Shower Oil: Glycine Soja Oil/Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Laureth-3, MIPA-Laureth Sulfate, Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil, Laureth-7 Citrate, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil/Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Parfum/Fragrance, Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate, Citric Acid

• Lush - not completely anhydrous but they often use glycerin instead of water as the main diluent, for example: Honey I Washed the Kids Shower Gel: Honey, Glycerine, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Cocoamphoacetate, Rosehip; Lotus Flowers And Tiger Lily Infusion, Perfume, Brazilian Orange Oil, Bergamot Oil, Titanium Dioxide, Amyl Cinnamal, *Citronellol, *Geraniol, *Limonene, *Linalool

[Sincityfire]

It’s possible, L’Occitane and The Body Shop both have an oil based body wash that lathers.

Lush uses glycerin instead of water for much of their shower gels.

[Sincityfire]

One downside is that it has a smell but it’s not unpleasant

[Sincityfire]

Also on the topic of distilled water, since it is not preserved, how long can you keep an opened container of distilled water?

[Sincityfire]

Hi, I’m a hobbyist, but I’ve been using Eumulgin SG for the past few months and it’s become one of my favourite emulsifiers.

2) It’s “naked” feeling, I’ve made thin serum emulsions to thick body butters with it. 

3/4) I find it very efficient, even at 0.25% + Cetearyl alcohol can make a nice cream, I’ve only gone as low at 0.25% but I can see it working at 0.1 or 0.2%. Worked really well with Montanov 68 or Olivem 1000. Yes, I find a “wash-out” effect if used too much.

6) I add to oil phase, but it never seems to completely melt - does that happen to you too?

7) I don’t have any experience with polyglyceryl emulsifiers, but yes, I use it alongside other emulsifiers like Montanov 68, Olivem 1000, or Glyceryl Stearate SE and it allows for more space for fatty alcohol which is one of the reasons I like this for body butters. Though it took me a few tries to get it right   

[Sincityfire]

Maybe it is part of the Ceramide complex as an incidental ingredient?

[Sincityfire]

I like to mix fragrance oils with essential oils - I think it really gives it that something special

I find a lot of fragrance oils I buy online are too heavy in musk for my preferences, and it can smell old-fashioned - does anyone else think so too?

1) Green tea and lemongrass fragrance oil + lemon myrtle essential oil

2) Chocolate fragrance oil + blood orange essential oil - it smells like a chocolate orange which is nice  

3) Cold water from Bramble berry - smells like the classic Cool water

4) Energy fragrance oil from Bramble berry - this reminds me of a Lush store

5) Vanilla is always an easy option, I’ve yet to find a bad smelling vanilla fragrance oil (knock on wood)

[Sincityfire]

I’m not an expert but it piqued my interest, it looks like the chemical is a residual substance - how did they find it?

[Sincityfire]

I don’t think moisturizers needs be applied on damp skin unless the product specifically says you could.

This abstract (I couldn’t find the full article) suggests that using a moisturizer designed for application to damp skin is easier to apply on wet xerotic skin than traditional moisturizers on dry xerotic skin.

The results showed no significant improvement on skin dryness, quality of life, and skin barrier function between the two moisturizers, interestingly the traditional moisturizer performed slightly better in barrier function.

[Sincityfire]

Out of curiosity, from the list it looks like the P-Anisic Acid is in the oil phase and I was wondering why

[Sincityfire]

Is that enough ethanol to be sanitizing? 

[Sincityfire]

What does your information say about SCI and pH below 6? I’m pretty sure it can work properly in pH 5

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PhilGeis said:

That is a poor preservative system and your supplier is profoundly ignorant.  Suggest you look for alternatives to  both.

Food colors have nothing to do with the acid salt equilibrium that is prmarily controlled by pH in cosmetic systems.

Thanks Phil, I’m not sure how they got such bad quality information, which makes me wonder about the quality of their product, rest assured I won’t be using this ingredient as the sole preservative.

[Sincityfire]

Liquid Germall Plus is easier to use in my opinion, tiny amounts of powder are hard to measure and work with.

[Sincityfire]

ggpetrov said:

drastically changes the haptics of the emulsion.

That’s really interesting! Out of curiousity, what tends to happen?

[Sincityfire]

I’m not a professional but I’ve seen Natpure Xfine by Sensient used to colour cosmetics, in this video

That being said, I have not used it because I can’t find any repackers selling it

[Sincityfire]

Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate