Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Your favorite “natural” emulsifier for a low viscosity day cream?

  • Your favorite “natural” emulsifier for a low viscosity day cream?

    Posted by suswang8 on July 4, 2021 at 12:24 am

    I am leaning toward trying sucrose stearate, especially since it is cold process (not essential), but I am curious to hear what else the Forum would recommend, and for what reason?  I will probably be using about 8% oil content.  Thank you.

    markbroussard replied 2 years, 5 months ago 5 Members · 7 Replies
  • 7 Replies
  • markbroussard

    Member
    July 4, 2021 at 12:37 am

    @suswang8:

    Sucrose Stearate will not give you any viscosity build … your emulsion will be water-thin.  If you are looking to formula a cream, you’ll need a companion emulsifier or thickeners to build viscosity.  SS is a good emulsifier.

  • graillotion

    Member
    July 4, 2021 at 2:24 am

    A little confused with the terms ‘low viscosity’ and ‘cream’ in the same sentence….

    But I make a delightful facial cream with Montanov 202 and GSC.

    I always add a twist of Aristoflex and a sprig of Carbomer, but maybe that won’t fit your ‘natural’ definition.

  • Sincityfire

    Member
    July 4, 2021 at 2:38 am

    Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate

  • seaberry

    Member
    July 4, 2021 at 2:00 pm

    I find that potassium cetyl phosphate is reliable and versatile, though the process can be less straightforward. 

  • suswang8

    Member
    July 4, 2021 at 3:47 pm
    Thank you.
    (ducking head in shame…..)
    I am looking to make something fairly watery:  a light, daytime, low viscosity facial emulsion that can easily be used in a pump container.  Maybe “cream” is an oxymoron.
    Does anyone know of any negatives (downsides) to using sucrose stearate (other than price and difficulty to find)?  And how would this compare to using GSC as sole emulsifier?  Thank you.
  • graillotion

    Member
    August 29, 2021 at 8:24 am

    suswang8 said:

    Does anyone know of any negatives (downsides) to using sucrose stearate (other than price and difficulty to find)? 

    Not too hard to find:
    Sucrose Stearate-EMF-SUSTE-01 (makingcosmetics.com)

  • markbroussard

    Member
    August 29, 2021 at 3:50 pm

    @suswang8

    Sucrose Stearate is a good choice if you are looking for a water-thin emulsion.  But, it may or may not be sufficient solo to form a stable emulstion.  You have to play with it and if it does not work solo, pair it up with another emulsifier.

Log in to reply.