

OldPerry
Forum Replies Created
-
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 17, 2020 at 5:38 pm in reply to: alpha tocopherol vs mixed tocopherol for a vit C serum.Tocopheryl Acetate is typically used.
-
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 16, 2020 at 3:23 am in reply to: Raw material question - Behenyl alcoholStearyl alcohol and Cetyl alcohol are other options.
-
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 15, 2020 at 12:03 pm in reply to: SLES ALERT!!!@filiz - with any ingredient, any individual can have a problem which other individuals don’t experience. You may never know the exact reason why one individual reacts but for a general population, it’s unlikely that SLES is a problem or will cause itching.
-
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 14, 2020 at 7:32 pm in reply to: What makes a “moisturizing” shampoo?@Belassi - If only the fearmongers didn’t scare people off parabens and formaldehyde donors. The usage of thiazolinones would have steadily disappeared.
-
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 14, 2020 at 6:46 pm in reply to: Comedogenic ratings of emulsifiers….@chemicalmatt - Exactly! Dose matters. It’s true of ALL cosmetic ingredients.
I think comedogenic ratings are pretty much worthless.
-
In looking at the CIR report on the safety of SLES they conclude…
“The panel noted that sodium laureth sulfate and ammonium laureth sulfate can produce eye and/or skin irritation in experimental animals and in some human test subjects; irritation may occur in some users of cosmetic formulations containing these ingredients. The irritant effects, however, are similar to those produced by other detergents, and the severity of the irritation appears to increase directly with concentration.”
So, it’s possible in high amounts that it might cause itching in some people. But it is not more problematic than any other detergent commonly used for body washes. -
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 14, 2020 at 2:02 pm in reply to: Help with this hair conditioner formulaYou have no slip because you’ve used Shea butter, coconut oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, etc.
If you want slip, drop the oils (or reduce the levels) and add silicones, Dimethicone or Amodimethicone. If you want to avoid silicones, then your products will have no slip (or at least not much).
But if you still want to avoid silicones get rid of the oils (especially the shea butter, that’s terrible for slip and doesn’t do much for hair), and use Cetrimonium Chloride or Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine.
In truth, you should get rid of a lot of the ingredients in your formula. Less is better. At least that way you know what each ingredient is doing in your formula.
So, revise formula…
Water
Cetyl Alcohol
Btms 50Cetrimonium Chloride
Coconut oil
Pheno X
Frag multifruity
Lactic acidAnd if you actually want good performing slip, use Dimethicone.
If you are going to deny using the best technology available, you will be destined to make bad formulas. (relatively speaking). -
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 14, 2020 at 12:57 pm in reply to: Difference between Baby Shampoo and Baby WashThe main difference between body wash and shampoo are the way they are marketed. In fact, when the VO5 brand I used to work on came out with a body wash, we pretty much took our shampoo, changed the label to say body wash and started selling it. The formulas were basically the same.
For baby wash / shampoo, it’s the same story. No, baby wash is not too harsh for baby’s hair.
-
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 12, 2020 at 3:30 am in reply to: A bit of Friday FunSodium chloride? Or maybe LiF?
-
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 12, 2020 at 3:29 am in reply to: Stability test questionProbably unstable
-
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 10, 2020 at 2:00 pm in reply to: Formulation Q&A - Webinar 2@raveena - here’s the link
-
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 3, 2020 at 7:32 pm in reply to: Signs of Nitrosamines being formed in Shampoo@Pharma - I don’t think the levels exposed to by cosmetics have ever been demonstrated to cause skin cancer.
-
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 3, 2020 at 12:12 pm in reply to: Signs of Nitrosamines being formed in ShampooNot that a person could sense. I suppose you could run a sample through an IR Spectrometer to identify the bonds.
-
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 2, 2020 at 1:47 pm in reply to: Does rate of cooling affect thickness of product?Yes, cooling rate can affect viscosity.
-
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 1, 2020 at 9:36 pm in reply to: Maintaining Viscosity At 50cMore xanthan gum
Carbomer
Better packaging. -
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 1, 2020 at 9:34 pm in reply to: Wanting to create a facial mask the consistency of thick honey (need help)To get the most useful help you’ll have to list all the ingredients in your formula.
-
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 1, 2020 at 7:28 pm in reply to: Maintaining Viscosity At 50cTo get a useful answer you need to give more information about the composition of your formula.
-
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 1, 2020 at 3:13 pm in reply to: Mildness comparison of two Shampoo formulaAccording to the CIR report (see table 6), Decyl glucoside was not-irritating at 1% (pH 7) but was slightly irritating at 3%. So, it could be that.
-
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 1, 2020 at 3:06 pm in reply to: stringy character of ShampooNo, stringiness doesn’t have any real effect on the hair or scalp. It could affect how quickly or easily the product produces foam or maybe even rinses out. But it’s mostly about how it comes out of the bottle.
Salt may or may not impact stringiness. It depends on the formula. There is no general answer.
-
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 1, 2020 at 1:07 pm in reply to: stringy character of Shampoo“Stringy flow” relates to the tendency for the stream of product to stick to the container when you are pouring it our.
When you pour water our of a pitcher, as soon as you lift it up and stop pouring, the stream of liquid cuts off and there is a complete separation from the stream and the container.
When you pour a “stringy” liquid, something like honey, when you lift up the container to stop the pouring, the liquid remains attached to itself and the container. There isn’t a clean break like there is with water. There is a fine strip of liquid the remains connected and this literally can look like a string. Thus the name.
These are two extreme examples. Depending on how it’s formulated, a shampoo can be more or less stringy. Typically, when you use a polymeric thickener like a cellulose you might get a stringy effect on pouring.
-
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 1, 2020 at 12:51 pm in reply to: 10% aha peel formula@Lal8899 - just because you can do something doesn’t mean you should do it. There is no good reason to formulate outside the boundaries of the CIR recommendations.
And if you are selling the product saying the “FDA website is just a guideline” doesn’t mean they won’t inspect your company, fine you, and shut you down if you can’t prove that your product is safe. If you are not following the CIR recommendations, you won’t be able to prove safety to the satisfaction of the FDA. Additionally, you set yourself up for a lawsuit by any consumer who might get harmed by your product.
Bottom line: not following the guidelines for safety is a bad idea.
-
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 1, 2020 at 12:44 pm in reply to: Need help understanding the process of hiring a chemistIt’s not exactly clear where you are in the process. So, it looks like you want to start a perfume line.
What do you mean when you say “I really want to mix it up myself..”? Mix what up? The fragrance, the perfume, something else?
If you want to “mix it up yourself” what do you want to hire a chemist to do?
If you are looking to get your own exclusive fragrance your best strategy is to find a fragrance house who can work with you and make exactly what you want. Then you make an exclusive deal with them so you are the only one who can purchase that particular fragrance. That’s what big companies do anyway.
-
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 1, 2020 at 12:41 pm in reply to: Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine and Behentrimonium Methosulfate@qwerty - Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine (SADMA) works well in a conditioner as does Behentrimonium Methosulfate. They aren’t “new” technology as I was using SADMA in the mid-1990’s in our Tresemme Conditioner. But they are relatively newly in favor as compared to other standard conditioning ingredients like Cetrimonium Chloride or Stearalkonium Chloride.
Yes, using Polyquats in the shampoo and the cationic (or amphoteric) surfactants in conditioners is a good strategy. Polyquat 10 was the first one that was widely used and it is the one that is more associated with build-up. But it’s hard to quantify these things.
-
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorAugust 31, 2020 at 11:37 pm in reply to: Denatured alcohol / alcoholsYour question is too vague to provide a good answer. Whether you can incorporate alcohol or not depends on what is in your formula.
-
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorAugust 31, 2020 at 11:11 pm in reply to: Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine and Behentrimonium Methosulfate@ngarayeva001 - Being able to produce a stable formula and one that provides a benefit are two different things. Despite what incidecoder or even Harry’s says, in my opinion these ingredients will not provide much benefit when delivered from a shampoo. I believe the ingredients listed in the formulas you linked are performing the function of being opacifying agents & foam reducers. They are not conditioning hair.