Forum Replies Created

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  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    June 22, 2021 at 8:11 pm in reply to: Actives, Percentages & Layers

    No because when you apply it a second time you are still only applying 5%. You are also applying the 95% of the formula that isn’t your active ingredient. So, the total on your skin remains 5%

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    June 22, 2021 at 8:10 pm in reply to: Caffeine

    Caffeine may have potential but it is far from proven to be effective.
    https://www.jddsjournal.org/article.asp?issn=2352-2410;year=2020;volume=24;issue=1;spage=18;epage=24;aulast=Visconti

    My guess is that it is not. If it were, many more people would be successfully using it.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    June 22, 2021 at 3:45 pm in reply to: Petroleum jelly

    Petroleum jelly does not cause scalp irritation or dandruff.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    June 22, 2021 at 1:16 pm in reply to: Petroleum jelly

    It depends on what you are using it for. Both are hydrocarbon based materials but cera bellina is a solid wax at room temperature so if you are using it to provide structure to your formula, then you won’t be able to use petroleum jelly.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    June 22, 2021 at 12:54 pm in reply to: SHOULD HAIR GROWTH OILS HAVE PENETRATING INGREDIENTS???

    @Abdullah - petrolatum has been used in hair products for multiple decades. There is no evidence (I could find) that it causes any hair loss.

    @Paprik - I’ve done a search on Google scholar and reviewed as many relevant papers as I could & found no study showing silicones had anything to do with hair loss. In fact, I found a couple that recommended using silicones as a way to prevent negative aspects of hair loss. 

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    June 21, 2021 at 6:01 pm in reply to: no salt please

    I believe some of this trend started because people with Keratin treatments (straightening) are told that salt will ruin the effect. Another is a conflation of thinking Sodium Lauryl Sulfate and Sodium Chloride are somehow the same material. 

    Since many mainstream brands use sodium chloride in their formulas, I could see a marketer taking that bit of information and effectively using it for fear marketing.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    June 21, 2021 at 11:48 am in reply to: SHOULD HAIR GROWTH OILS HAVE PENETRATING INGREDIENTS???

    Silicones do not cause hair follicles to swell and die.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    June 18, 2021 at 6:57 pm in reply to: Any tips for removing stains from hot plates?

    This is a common problem. Not sure if I ever found a good solution. 

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    June 18, 2021 at 4:41 pm in reply to: Hairwax; Can I substitute ingredients in this formula (for healthier ones)

    Cosmetic ingredients are not like food ingredients.  There are no “healthier” options as long as you are using ingredients at safe levels. Acceptably safe levels can be found at the CIR ingredient review site.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    June 17, 2021 at 11:42 am in reply to: When are micelles formed in cleaning products?

    Micelles are formed when the concentration of the surfactant exceeds the Critical Micelle Concentration

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    June 16, 2021 at 11:41 pm in reply to: How would you interpret these mixing instructions?

    Since there is an A and B phase it’s important to know what ingredients are in A and what ingredients are in B.  In their formulations that is listed on the left side column. 
    So, that means in one container mix the A phase. Then slowly add phase B ingredients with high shear mixing. These are the polymers and they need to go in room temp water.  Then you heat up that phase.

    At 80C, add the ingredients from phase C (this is the oil phase). Use the homogenizer for 10 minutes.  Then begin cooling down the batch.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    June 16, 2021 at 11:01 pm in reply to: Effects of visible blue light on the skin?

    Here’s what the scientists at Beiersdorf had to say.
    https://www.beiersdorf.com/newsroom/press-releases/all-press-releases/2021/05/04-cell-phone-screens-do-not-damage-skin

    Basically…no you don’t have to worry about it.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    June 16, 2021 at 1:52 pm in reply to: Cosmetic line coach training program

    Hello @Jemmie1 - yes the course is still being offered. We’re moving it from it’s current domain to the Chemists Corner domain so I’ll let you know when it is ready to accept students again.  Sorry for the delay.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    June 10, 2021 at 5:48 pm in reply to: Tremella- any experience?

    If it is being added as a humectant, this is the strategy I would use.

    1.  Use glycerin or propylene glycol at effective levels.
    2.  Use Tremella at a tiny amount so you can put it on the label.

    In this way you get the benefits of a good working product and the same marketing benefits as if you had used tremella alone. Plus, it costs a fraction of the price to make!

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    June 10, 2021 at 1:04 pm in reply to: Tremella- any experience?

    I’m not sure I understand what advice/information you are looking for. You’ve used the product and feel like you are getting some benefit, or at least friends and family seem to.

    My thoughts are this…
    1. What benefit are you hoping to get from Tremella powder?
    2. What special benefit does tremella powder provide?
    3. Can you get the same benefits or more using a less expensive system/material?
    4. Why wouldn’t you use something less expensive & more reliable?

    In my view an ingredient like Tremella is a “claims” ingredient. You put it in a formula at a tiny percentage because it is expensive and it doesn’t provide as good a benefit as other ingredients (assuming moisturization is what you are going for).

    But you have to decide what kind of formulator/product developer do you want to be. 

    Do you want to make products that work the best using whatever ingredients deliver?

    or

    Do you want to restrict yourself to natural materials and make less effective products? 

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    June 9, 2021 at 4:29 pm in reply to: Welcome to the forum

    @Cinema - I’d suggest you post your question as a new discussion

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    June 9, 2021 at 1:59 pm in reply to: Which Dimethicone is OTC skin protector

    @PhilGeis - I saw that. I just am skeptical that even though there was enough evidence to convince regulators to include colloidal oatmeal at those low levels in the monograph, I doubt it provides any noticeable benefit over just using mineral oil alone. I’m sure they have a study that demonstrates an effect. I just remain skeptical and without replication see it as a statistical anomaly. 

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    June 8, 2021 at 11:17 pm in reply to: Which Dimethicone is OTC skin protector

    @Abdullah - It’s likely that someone, somewhere had a study that demonstrated an effect in combination with mineral oil. But I would say that is probably just an anomaly and it probably doesn’t have a real impact. Just my opinion though. 

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    June 8, 2021 at 8:56 pm in reply to: What is a basic question about beauty products you want to know the answer to?

    This is an interesting review of the research in the effectiveness of sunscreens. https://sciencebasedmedicine.org/the-great-sunscreen-cover-up/  But it doesn’t get to the nitty gritty of the sunscreen scenario I proposed.  

    This study is supposed to be the “proof” that daily sunscreen use is effective. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21135266/

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    June 8, 2021 at 7:37 pm in reply to: Tocopheryl acetate to tocopherol conversion rate

    Of course, if consumers can’t really tell any difference you still get the marketing benefits from having Vitamin E on your package without the cost or stability issues of tocopherol! 

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    June 8, 2021 at 6:47 pm in reply to: Formulating shampoo

    @abdelaal - Whether these ingredients are in the formula or not in the formula, a consumer will experience the same results. These are what we in the business call “claims ingredients.”

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    June 8, 2021 at 2:14 am in reply to: Formulating shampoo

    This formula isn’t following proper labeling rules so it would be difficult to guess at the percentages of things.  Mostly, it is a Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Cocamide DEA and Cocamidopropyl Betaine formula.  Everything before Sodium Laureth Sulfate is just claims ingredients and should just be counted as Water.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    June 8, 2021 at 2:11 am in reply to: Would you consider this shampoo a cleansing or moisturizing

    With Polyquaternium 10, this would be more of a “moisturizing” shampoo. Of course the inclusion of Almond Oil and Glycerin means that it will not foam or clean as well as formulas that don’t have those ingredients.  And I wouldn’t expect it to be very thick nor would I expect it to produce much foam.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    June 7, 2021 at 3:33 pm in reply to: Ethoxylated-Carinogenic?

    Right. Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Taurate is not ethoxylated.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    June 7, 2021 at 3:32 pm in reply to: What is a basic question about beauty products you want to know the answer to?

    @MarkBroussard - “I don’t think that question will ever be answered…”  
    On that we agree.

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