

OldPerry
Forum Replies Created
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@Bobzchemist - That would be nice. Perhaps there could be a page or something. I just don’t know how to organize it.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorFebruary 4, 2015 at 2:23 pm in reply to: Charging for formula development - Hourly fees VS RoyaltiesI can see either strategy being effective. I think a reasonable royalty range is 1 - 2% but I don’t know for sure. It’s highly dependent on what you can negotiate.
With the probability of failure of any product line, I’d opt for the payment up front. Plus, you have to rely on the company actually paying you the royalties in the future. How would you keep track of their sales? It all seems pretty complicated. I’m sure it can work but I’d go for the hourly / project fees. -
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorFebruary 3, 2015 at 1:32 pm in reply to: No idea what to call this request!You might trying asking @chemicalmatt. I believe this might be something his company does.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJanuary 31, 2015 at 10:42 pm in reply to: Animal testing - why the US won’t ban it any time soonYou can’t test potential carcinogens on people.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJanuary 31, 2015 at 5:08 pm in reply to: Animal testing - why the US won’t ban it any time soonWithout new ingredients there will be no more innovation. Or at least innovation will be strictly limited.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJanuary 30, 2015 at 6:35 pm in reply to: This makes me somewhat sad…I agree. Ugh.
The Internet has been a great invention but it’s had the side effect of making people who know very little feel like they are experts because they were able to Google a topic.The Dunning Kruger effect in action. -
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJanuary 30, 2015 at 6:33 pm in reply to: AmorePacific mulls patent lawsuit against LancomeUsually the David just agrees to a buyout by the Goliath. (e.g. Burt’s Bees, Toms of Maine, etc)
Some version of this kind of copying goes on all the time in the cosmetic industry. I remember that much of the marketing done by the company I worked at involved going to Sephora and seeing which products were popular enough for us to copy.It doesn’t matter how much money you have. Everyone can come up with an idea.Of course, ideas aren’t worth anything unless you do something with them. -
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJanuary 30, 2015 at 6:29 pm in reply to: Pharmaceuticals vs CosmeceuticalsI like that idea. I’ll give it some thought and see if I can put together some for later this year.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJanuary 30, 2015 at 4:03 pm in reply to: Preservative systemsThe best in terms of functionality? DMDM Hydantoin plus Methylparaben.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJanuary 30, 2015 at 4:00 pm in reply to: Pharmaceuticals vs CosmeceuticalsWelcome to the wonderful world of weasel words.
1. “Supports” - that can pretty much mean anything.2. “Stimulates” - that’s vague and can pretty much mean anything too3. “Strengthened” - how do you strengthen collagen? More vagueness.4. “clams, heals, brightens” - what does it mean to calm collagen? or heal collagen or brighten collagen?5. “provides intense moisture” - what would non-intense moisture be? more vagueness.This is all very clever copywriting. They write sentences that when picked apart don’t actually mean anything.Notice what they don’t say…“Increases the amount of collagen” That might be a measurable claim which could get them in trouble. -
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJanuary 30, 2015 at 3:53 pm in reply to: Stability and thickening of shampooThanks for enlightening me. My information about Cocamide DEA was clearly out of date. Back in 1996 all the major hair care companies removed DEA containing materials from their formulas (it was a big project for the VO5 brand). The reason we did it though was because of residual DEA being shown to be carcinogenic in rats. There wasn’t evidence that the the amid itself was carcinogenic.
While the CIR finds that it is safe when used at levels in cosmetics, it’s probably a good idea for marketing reasons to avoid it. -
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJanuary 30, 2015 at 3:28 pm in reply to: Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics: Volume II Formulating Book … Review?I have a copy of the book in my hand right now. Each chapter gives a bit of background about the topic talking about the history, the technology, and how things are made. Then the chapters end with a number of example formulas.
It’s a pretty good book and I reference it frequently. Some of the chapters are better than others but if you are looking for lots of example formulas this is a good book for that. If you are looking for more in-depth background information you would probably do better with Harry’s Cosmeticology. They just get more detailed but have far fewer example formulas. -
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJanuary 30, 2015 at 3:24 pm in reply to: Did you see the cosmetic chemist on Dr Oz?@MarkBroussard - Our segment wasn’t a debate so we didn’t actually have any interaction. She actually covered material that I told the Oz show about (e.g. the beetle shells used for coloring & finding less expensive versions of expensive cosmetics). I guess they wanted a little more diversity in the segment.
You’re right that it is difficult for scientists to go on a show like that because they want to keep everything simple for their audience and science isn’t always simple. They also want definitive advice and science is also never 100% definitive about anything. I feel confident enough in busting some cosmetic marketing myths but I try to avoid telling people that any particular product or technology is something they must use. -
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJanuary 30, 2015 at 4:43 am in reply to: Did you see the cosmetic chemist on Dr Oz?The first time I went on his show I wanted to hate him but he is actually a nice guy. It’s just unfortunate that so much of the stuff on the show is complete nonsense.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJanuary 29, 2015 at 8:02 pm in reply to: Pharmaceuticals vs CosmeceuticalsThat’s a pretty good philosophy for a smaller cosmetic brand.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJanuary 29, 2015 at 6:41 pm in reply to: Did you see the cosmetic chemist on Dr Oz?Incidentally, if you were curious about what it’s like to be on that show, I did a little behind the scenes write-up on the blog.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJanuary 29, 2015 at 4:44 pm in reply to: Remember your first job interview?Every so often it helps to bump a discussion back to the top.
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Thanks for letting me know. I think if you try ‘refreshing’ you should be able to comment. I’ll try to get this fixed.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJanuary 29, 2015 at 4:42 pm in reply to: Stability and thickening of shampooYou’ll need to solubilize the essential oils in something like polysorbate or if you want to be more natural, Sorbitan Oleate Decylglucoside Crosspolymer from Colonial Chemical. Oleth-40 can work too.
Incidentally, DEA is not a carcinogen. -
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJanuary 29, 2015 at 1:39 pm in reply to: Pharmaceuticals vs CosmeceuticalsFunny, there are lots of people who say the US industry is unregulated and are pushing for more regulations.
I don’t really have a problem with the US regulatory system but you are right, it favors big, rich companies. If you could demonstrate a clinical effect for a new acne treatment then you can file an NDA and get it approved as a new drug.Basically, if you can prove something works you can get it approved for use (if you have enough money). -
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJanuary 28, 2015 at 2:21 pm in reply to: Seeking a Cosmetic Scientist who has experience in Color CosmeticsYou can try Nick Morante
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJanuary 28, 2015 at 2:19 pm in reply to: Pharmaceuticals vs CosmeceuticalsIt’s pretty clear. If a product actually has an impact on cell metabolism or cures a disease, then it is a drug. If it merely affects the appearance, it is a cosmetic.
“Cosmeceuticals” are technically drugs.Recently the FDA has been sending warning letters to companies making antiaging claims which are drug claims. See this letter they sent to Cell Vitals.<edited> -
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJanuary 28, 2015 at 2:15 pm in reply to: Website E-Commerce providerJust a tip, be sure to backup your websites somewhere away from your host. The host I was using for all my websites had a technical crash and lost all my data (over 6 year’s worth). It was awful.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJanuary 28, 2015 at 2:11 pm in reply to: Recommendation for UK Safety AssessorYou might also try Colin Sanders at colinscosmeticconsultancy.co.uk