[OldPerry]

Build-up of cationic polymers and silicones could be one rationale for people claiming their hair “gets used to” a shampoo.

I think it is more a psychological effect more than something they actually notice but I could be wrong. I often am.

[OldPerry]

I’m afraid Aspirin (which is Acetylsalicylic Acid) will not fight acne.  There is a reason those lotions with salicylic acid are expensive…they work.  

Lotions with acetylsalicylic acid will not work.

I’m not sure I understand the claim that products are “outrageously priced” though.  You can get a St. Ives acne product for $3.

http://www.drugstore.com/search/search_results.asp?N=4294965389&srchtree=1&Ns=performanceRank%7c0&Ntk=All&Ntt=acne%20care

[OldPerry]

I think a lack of quantification of many characteristics of cosmetic products is the main hurdle that computer formulators will have to overcome.

[OldPerry]

If you’re using Glycerin as a processing aid then there is no downside to including it in your formula. It doesn’t give much conditioning effect but it doesn’t hurt either (except make the formula a little more expensive).

Cetrimonium Chloride will not work in a shampoo. 

Dimethicone will give the most noticeable effect in my experience.

PQ-10 is the cationic polymer conditioning standard. All others try to out perform it. PQ-44 might but I haven’t worked with it.

I’ve never seen a system where excessive Sodium ions caused a reduction in conditioning.

[OldPerry]

If you’re located in the US, Cosmetic Test Labs is a good resource for getting micro testing done.

[OldPerry]

I think you’re starting with a formula that is too complicated.

If you want to make something more conditioning you want to start simple.  First make a base formula which could be….

Water a.q to 100 

SLES (8% ACTIVE) 

CAPB (2.5% ACTIVE) 

Cocoamido DEA (1.5% ACTIVE)

Preservative a.q 

Pearling agent 2% 

Menthol 0.5% 

Fragrance (menthol) 0.5% 

Citric acid a.q 

Ph=5.5 active surfactants=12%

Then add your conditioning agents one at a time.

Glycerin 2% - I doubt this will have any effect on anything in your formula. It can be left out.

Polyquaternium-10 0.25% - This will have a conditioning effect but can also build up on hair. If you use it for a few weeks your hair will start to feel dull and coated.

Dimethicone 1% - This is good but tough to make stable in a formula. Also can build up.

Polyquaternium-7 2% - This is a really high level but in truth I’ve never noticed much effect of PQ-7 in shampoo formulas.

You might try Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride

[OldPerry]

We used to hire temporary workers to fill bottles. We paid them $10 an hour.

[OldPerry]

You could probably strike a deal with this company.

http://www.makingcosmetics.com/

Or finding a distributor that takes on smaller accounts could be done. To find a distributor, look up what company makes the ingredient you are buying then do a google search for the trade name of that compound.

[OldPerry]

I’m not so confident it will make it on to the monograph.  If it worked demonstrably better than the current drugs (and it has undoubtedly been tested) I’m sure a big company would include it in a standard formula without making claims on it.  But I could be mistaken about my predictions in the future.  I often am.

[OldPerry]

Using Amazon for your fulfillment system is a great idea too.  The store and ship all your products while you can focus on marketing.

[OldPerry]

I would suggest you look at this discussion….

https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/comment/7195/

[OldPerry]

I agree with @microformulation. Many companies consider phenoxyethanol “natural”

[OldPerry]

Actually, you are not allowed to use anything to color cosmetics that are not approved on the FDA list.  (There is a similar list for the EU).

If it is not listed here (even if it comes right from nature) you can’t put it in a cosmetic for the purpose of coloring the product. 

[OldPerry]

Hello Bob

Here is a Youtube version of the presentation.

The main presentation starts at 14:00 into the video and lasts for about 40 minutes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-pBy3-evfI0

Let me know what you think.

Perry, 44

[OldPerry]

I didn’t actually say add carcinogens. I said to add more mineral oil which this person thinks is a carcinogen apparently.

[OldPerry]

If you know it’s in there then it should be declared.

[OldPerry]

Probably the best company from a technology standpoint is TRI Institute. 

[OldPerry]

The webinar is tomorrow and over 600 people have already joined!  

I’m almost done writing it which means this work day will probably be a work night. See you tomorrow.

Cosmetic Science Webinar

[OldPerry]

Great questions and I agree with what @Bobzchemist has said above.

I would add that before you pay for any testing you should come up with a list of claims that you want to have substantiated.  These should be claims that your customers will find compelling.  That will give your testing house some goal to shoot for. They may or may not be able to do it but you need to give them as much direction as possible.

If they were really good they would help you come up with claims about your product but that may be asking a bit much.

Claims will support the story that can set your product apart from all the other technologies. It is well worth doing the testing but you need claims that you know are compelling to your consumers.

[OldPerry]

If the % activity of an ingredient is >1% then it has to be listed in order of concentration on the label.  When making LOIs you have to base the list on % activity, not on the amount of the raw material (as supplied) that you put in.

If you use 5% of a raw material that is only 10% active, you’re actually only adding 0.5% of the ingredient and can list it in any order you want.

[OldPerry]

It takes a lot of testing to be sure the cost savings is worth it.

[OldPerry]

@Bobzchemist - very clever use of WordPress.com  >

[OldPerry]

@David - for posting pictures you have to use the 6th button from the right. It’s a square with a green blob in the middle.  In there you put the URL of the picture.

[OldPerry]

@Chemist77 - I think you can just use your own email address.  Let me know if you have any problems.

[OldPerry]

@BartJ - cool tool.