Forum Replies Created

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  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 20, 2018 at 5:30 pm in reply to: natural coloring in lipstick

    If you are using the ingredient as a colorant, then you can’t use it. The fact that it has some skin moisturizing as a side benefit doesn’t make it ok to use it when the main intent is to use it as a colorant.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 20, 2018 at 1:33 pm in reply to: Natural presevation

    Well, you should also do a preservative efficacy test (PET)

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 20, 2018 at 1:31 pm in reply to: Alternative to coffee/energy drinks - I need to wake up!

    @Doreen - This is put under the “off topic” category so it’s fair to list.

    Having said that I certainly wouldn’t take health advice from a forum.

    As to the original question, I drink tea as an alternative to coffee.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 20, 2018 at 12:41 pm in reply to: Marketing Investment for A New Skin Care Brand

    You can also piece together information freely available on the Internet.

    https://www.statista.com/statistics/382100/european-cosmetics-market-volume-by-country/

    But for a completely new brand, it will be a total guess.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 20, 2018 at 12:38 pm in reply to: Is there anything I can do to make this product actually effective on my skin?

    @Gunther - how is the penetration effect measured?

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 20, 2018 at 12:35 pm in reply to: Percentage of oil in hair conditioner

    Reduce macadamia oil to 0.5% or less. Reduce Dimethicone level to 1% increase Cyclomethicone to 3%.

    That’s where I’d start. The silicones will give you the most “smoothing” of any ingredient in there. Behentrimonium Chloride would be more effective at a lower pH.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 20, 2018 at 12:32 pm in reply to: Cosmetic Product Labeling

    The company distributing the products would be responsible for listing their address and making sure the label is correct.

    Net quantity would be measured when you fill the product. You have to fill as much as listed on the net contents. You do that by weighing the amount that you put into the container.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 16, 2018 at 12:53 pm in reply to: Cetosteryl alcohol co-emulsifier

    No, this probably won’t work.  Cetomacrogol 1000 (Ceteareth-20) has an HLB of 15.7.  Sorbitan Stearate has an HLB of 4.7

    If you are going to replace a high HLB material, you’ll need to use another high HLB material.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 15, 2018 at 2:58 am in reply to: Base product

    Ultimately you are responsible for proving your products are safe. The base sellers don’t have to prove anything if you customize it in some way.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 15, 2018 at 2:55 am in reply to: How do I extract potential nutrients from seaweed and algae?

    There’s a long way from some positive results in lab studies of an ingredient to actually seeing any benefits in a formula. In the vast majority of cases, lab results can’t be replicated in real life.

    Better to leave to professionals of course. But my opinion is that the only thing that matters in your extraction process is that you do it in a consistent way. No matter how you do it, it’s unlikely you’ll see much effect in your final formula.  But it’s worth proving that for yourself 

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 14, 2018 at 9:41 pm in reply to: Hot Pour- Skin over

    For formulation questions, to get helpful answers you need to include either the entire formula or at least the list of ingredients.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 14, 2018 at 2:05 pm in reply to: Emulsifying a mouthwash

    @DrAndrewWorthen - please contribute a bit more to the discussion before you pitch your services.  This forum only works if experts are willing to answer questions.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 14, 2018 at 2:03 pm in reply to: final product separation at the market

    Yes, it is possible that a change in production procedure can cause a stability problem. Especially, if your manufacturing change is the type of mixer you are using.  And especially if you are going from lab sized batches to production scale sized batches!

    Without seeing the formula or ingredient list, no one will be able to guess what is the problem. I’m thinking you didn’t create a good enough emulsion in the production process.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 14, 2018 at 2:00 pm in reply to: Silicones in serums

    No. Silicones won’t interfere with absorption in any significant way because as @Microformulation says, active ingredients don’t really penetrate significantly anyway.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 14, 2018 at 1:39 pm in reply to: To be or not to be? Essential Oils in skincare

    Parabens are added to formulas for one purpose, preservation. So, it does make sense to categorize them, although there are significant differences.

    However, it’s not fair to look at silicones as a group. The wide variety of molecules and functions of those molecules makes the term “silicones” no less broad than the category “hydrocarbons.”

    For your question, here is a recent review of the biological effects of essential oils published in a peer reviewed journal on toxicology. 

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/hqg5nqs4vbqvf63/essential-oil-review.pdf?dl=0

    Of note…”Depending on type and concentration, they exhibit cytotoxic effects on living cells…”  

    Of course, this effect can be good if it is attacking parasites and problematic microbes, it can be bad if it is attacking human cells.



    Big companies hire fragrances houses like IFF, Givaudan, or Firmenich to make their fragrances. 

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 13, 2018 at 10:35 pm in reply to: vegan, 100% natural oil

    What kind of recommendations are you looking for?  Are you looking for a company that supplies it? Or a different option than jojoba oil?

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 13, 2018 at 5:20 pm in reply to: Cetosteryl alcohol co-emulsifier

    Yes, if you want any advice you should list your whole formula or the ingredient list at the very least.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 13, 2018 at 5:19 pm in reply to: Ingredients to add drag to lip product?

    To get better answers you should include a list of all the ingredients already in your formula.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 13, 2018 at 1:46 pm in reply to: Alcohol in oil

    I’m skeptical of the “alcohol is bad for skin” claim too.  

    For example, the best evidence suggests it is not irritating to skin. 
    https://chemistscorner.com/does-alcohol-cause-skin-irritation/

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 13, 2018 at 12:41 pm in reply to: URprospector video: concentration and No extra preservatives

    I agree with @Sibech - I would add.

    1.  There is no prescribed legal limit on cosmetic ingredients. But there is a law that it is illegal to sell unsafe products. You have to be able to prove that the product you are selling is demonstrated to be safe under expected use conditions. Usually, this means limiting your concentration to the level as suggested by the CIR.

    2.  I’m not sure I agree with her assertions that you should consider the consumer when deciding whether to put more preservative in the system or not. The most important consideration is whether the product will be safe or not. In this case, since there isn’t any water in the concentrates, I agree that extra preservation probably isn’t required.

    In general, I don’t like this notion of encouraging people to customize their beauty products in this way. It seems way too easy for something to go wrong.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 8, 2018 at 10:40 pm in reply to: What is the purpose in the product?

    In case you’re curious, there are currently 26 EU allergens that you must declare if they are in your fragrance / product.

    List of EU allergens

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 7, 2018 at 11:54 pm in reply to: Is there anything I can do to make this product actually effective on my skin?

    @Sibech - Yes, I’m aware of many studies. I just find them lacking. Most are done on cell cultures or without controls or on small groups. I agree double-blind are the most reliable.  But even for those I’d like to see replication of studies which you rarely ever get.

    Like you said, most of the research is done by companies or sponsored by a company. This doesn’t mean the research is crap but it does mean we have to be extra skeptical. Plus, there is the file-drawer effect where researchers don’t publish negative findings.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 7, 2018 at 2:56 pm in reply to: Is there anything I can do to make this product actually effective on my skin?

    My question is: Is it a waste of time to create a formula with these ingredients if they are just going to be sitting on surface of my skin? Will they produce any kind of effect at all on the quality of my skin?”

    Based on the evidence available, I do think it is a waste of time. These are claims ingredients that will just sit on the top of your skin and do little more than moisturize. 

    You’ll have difficulty showing any improvement better than just using a moisturizer alone.

    Although, I’d be happy to be shown wrong based on scientific evidence. I just haven’t found any convincing evidence that under real-life conditions, things like Ceramides, Hyaluronic Acid, most vitamins, stem cells, or most any other anti-aging ingredient, actually has much noticeable effect.

    The only ingredients that seem to have some merit are retinols (the drug kind) and niacinamide. I still find the later dubious but there is at least more than a little evidence of effectiveness.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 6, 2018 at 9:40 pm in reply to: Is it possible to make shampoo with cationics as the main surfactants?

    It sounds like you’ve just tried a cationic shampoo so it’s definitely been attempted. I don’t think there have been any marketed though.

    There are a few problems with cationics for shampoos.

    1. They don’t foam well (as you saw)
    2. They are irritating to the eyes.
    3. They are more expensive that anionics.
    4. They don’t clean well

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 6, 2018 at 3:28 pm in reply to: Good supplier for common cosmetic chemicals? Or when to stop ordering from webshops

    You can find bigger suppliers on places like ulprospector.com or knowde.com

    It’s likely you’ll continue to order from webshops for things you don’t buy much of and larger suppliers for your larger ingredient orders.

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