Forum Replies Created

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  • Pattsi

    Member
    October 5, 2021 at 9:15 am in reply to: Lawyers suitable for cosmetics business

    If they have money and time to waste, maybe let them have their way with design patent or stupid new ingredient patent.

    Sounds like you’re caught up in money laundring thriller. B) B) B)

  • I’m not sure I understand your question well.
    I will name a few that I ( kind of ) like, not really blown away or anything.

    Clarins hand and nail
    Burt’s Bees baobab oil ultimate care hand cream
    Eucerin Advanced repair hand - red cap tube
    La Roche-Posay Cicaplast baume B5

    If i have to pick one, I would say La Roche-Posay. 

    Personally I don’t like high gum or gums in emulsion other than pullulan ( is pullulan a gum? I don’t know ). 
    Have you tried wax, rice bran wax is quite nice.

  • Thank you @Graillotion and @Pharma

  • Pattsi

    Member
    September 29, 2021 at 2:52 pm in reply to: Formulating a clear serum with max 10% oils

    Paprik said:

     As usually it takes 5:1 ratio. Sometimes even 10:1. (1:1 if you are lucky)

    as @Paprik mentioned - usually solubilizer 5 : oil 1

    So you may start with P80 5% and oil 1 %.

  • @MarkBroussard - great advice thank you, I will try it next time.

  • Pattsi

    Member
    September 29, 2021 at 2:29 pm in reply to: What is too much?

    Stanley said:

    Do you ask the customer to sign an agreement of sorts?  Ideas?

    You should.

    I assumed you’re USA based.
    trade names, vendor, COA, SDS, various statements, blends, inci, cas, % of each component - normally not necessary, only inci for LOI, but if the trade name of certain ingredient can be use in marketing then it would be good for marketer.

    But if it’s a 30,000 USD or more per formula, I would expect every or most of detail bit.

  • just curious, if add after cooldown, won’t it break the Montanov L lamella?
    didn’t seppic said can shear again with rotor stator if necessary.

  • Pattsi

    Member
    September 29, 2021 at 12:49 pm in reply to: K.A.D.S.S. PEIRIS
  • Pattsi

    Member
    September 29, 2021 at 12:41 pm in reply to: Vitamin C Serum: Would appreciate some advice. Thanks.

    Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is water soluble, so you can add it to your water phase, final pH should be around 7-8 for Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate’s stability.

    you have water phase and oil phase but you don’t have emulsifier.

  • Pattsi

    Member
    September 24, 2021 at 1:21 pm in reply to: Correlation between Polyglycerol Esters and ceramide penetration.

    I don’t think penetration is the problem.
    But mostly will be stuck at the top layers.

    https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/cerami032015rep.pdf
    Ceramides are lipophilic and are likely to be readily absorbed
    into the skin. However, they are expected to remain in the stratum corneum and not penetrate any deeper.

    link for reading, differences in cer subclasses in epidermis.
    https://bmcdermatol.biomedcentral.com/articles/10.1186/s12895-020-00102-1

    with Hydrogenated Lecithin pre-blended, it is supposed to form liposome for ceramides’ stability, not the penetration? >>>> have to wait for Pharma.

  • Pattsi

    Member
    September 21, 2021 at 6:58 am in reply to: What does a new brand need to succeed?

    Thank you Perry.

    Perry said:

    There are rarely any really new ideas.

    So true.

    Perry said:

    They know that ideas like all natural cosmetics already exist, so they don’t waste a formulator’s time trying to convince them it’s never been introduced before.

    A joke I exchanged with our formulator.
    Me - Uncle, can we put a living crayfish in our gel bottle?
    He - Yes of cause, stupid.
    Me - Come on, super natural product, no? lol
    He - Yeah yeah, stupid kid, go play with your sand that way.

  • Pattsi

    Member
    September 16, 2021 at 7:23 pm in reply to: Chemical banned in thailand?
  • Pattsi

    Member
    September 16, 2021 at 5:13 pm in reply to: Long INCI, very small jar.

    How small is the jar?
    0.5 oz jar like eye cream, you can use all 6 sides of the box - usually enough for everything required.
    or 0.1 oz jar or tube like tester, we exempt LOI but can’t be sold.  

  • Pattsi

    Member
    September 16, 2021 at 4:58 pm in reply to: What does a new brand need to succeed?

    As a Marketer, I want to know the answer(s) as well lol.

    For me, I would say
    1 market research and identify your consumers - customer insight is the most crucial part because people won’t change easily.
    2 good quality product - the product is the second, even tho you can adjust the formula but it takes time.
    3 marketing -  if you do the research well enough this part is easy.

    some notes
    Influencers - good for brand awareness but have little to do with profits/sale, used to be reasonable price but now very inflated. Some with good work etiquette, some with really bad. 
    Partnering with appropriate experts(derms, estheticians, etc) - meaning higher price tag but it might be double-edged sword, people will have higher expectation when there’s expert involved if the product doesn’t deliver and meet their expectation (which is very subjective) they might consider your product underperform.

    Perry said:

    I will add that too many people spend time learning how to make products (formulate) when they should be learning how to market and sell their products. It’s much easier to hire a good chemist than a good marketer.

    agree but I have a question. In chemists point of view, what makes a marketer a good marketer?

  • Pattsi

    Member
    September 8, 2021 at 7:40 am in reply to: Reason a hair relaxer might not take

    abierose said:

    Would older (30 years ago) home perm kits have any of the aforementioned chemicals and if so, is it possible those chemicals could permanently alter the way ones hair grows? My hair was as straight as straight could be up until I was about 11 years old when a family “friend” permed my hair and since then my hair is wavy…and yes, I remember the smell…yuck! ????

    It’ likely to be just genetics and puberty.

  • Pattsi

    Member
    September 6, 2021 at 4:19 am in reply to: This is how formulating happens in industry

     <3 <3 <3 Thanks for sharing <3 <3 <3  

  • Pattsi

    Member
    September 3, 2021 at 4:15 am in reply to: Toner

    I know of Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate that’s why I suggested try 10- 15 and work your way up until you meet your desired texture.
    Happy formulating.

  • Pattsi

    Member
    September 3, 2021 at 3:54 am in reply to: Typical inclusion rate of Cholecalciferol / D3 in a cream or lotion

    L’orealusa, Paula, CeraVe - use it. 
    EU - banned.
    CeraVe Canada use it in their 3% SA lotion and cream - medicinal/non-medicinal LOI but also use it in cleanser with typical LOI.
    So you are probably safe with 0.00000 - 0.00 % inclusion rate.

  • Pattsi

    Member
    September 2, 2021 at 6:08 am in reply to: Sustainable Mica versus Iron Oxide

    @Perry - In theory yes but in term of sustainability, it will be judged by consumers’ general perception as it is self-declared and UN has no penalties or anything.

    From your example - They could use green technologies to extract and ship it in wooden ship and claim sustainable petroleum but there’s no merit in doing so as the perception of petroleum is unsustainable (and/or they don’t bother to care, petro rich countries have been invested in non-petro megaprojects past years).

    As for Mica, it was focused on child labor in India so they came up with sustainable Mica, providing good opportunities for locals and then build their story from that.

    For start-up who comes across this post, my humble little advice.
    Thing I learned from Danish chamber of commerce - sustainable products have promising opportunity in EU but if you fake it then you will be scrutinized harsh and dead.

    PhilGeis said:

    UN bureaucracy sticks its fingers in everything.

    @PhilGeis - Yup tho UN has no real power or anything.

  • Pattsi

    Member
    September 1, 2021 at 5:25 am in reply to: Sustainable Mica versus Iron Oxide

    According to the United Nations (UN), a sustainable activity is one that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs. The UN recognises three main spheres of sustainability:

    1. Economic: sustainable economies for long term provision of wealth, research and development.
    2. Environmental: sustainable use of natural resources such as water, air, land and habitats.
    3. Societal: sustainable provision of education, equal rights, and communities.

    I just copy&patse from Merck’s site.

    Tho the original term would be responsible mica but now mostly use  sustainable mica.

    I wouldn’t call it a claim, it’s more like a self-declaration for business agenda.

  • Pattsi

    Member
    September 1, 2021 at 4:52 am in reply to: Toner

    Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate - up to 100 ?

    try cut it down to 10-15.

  • Pattsi

    Member
    August 28, 2021 at 6:00 am in reply to: Is a PH of 7-7.5 okay for a tonic?

    Honestly, Niacinimide is pretty much overrated. Fair & lovely’s been using it since before I was born. 
    pH 5-5.5 is to claim pH balance when pre-sale regis is needed in EU and it’s good for marketing.

  • Pattsi

    Member
    August 27, 2021 at 12:18 pm in reply to: Preservatives if refrigerating

    DaveStone said:

    Wouldn’t the stomach acid only have minimal effect?

    Where do you get this information?

    Oh I just saw @PhilGeis ‘s already explained. 

  • Results: Coconut oil and mineral oil have comparable effects. Both oils showed effectivity through significant improvement in skin hydration and increase in skin surface lipid levels. Safety was demonstrated through no significant difference in TEWL and skin pH. Subjective grading of xerosis by the investigators and visual analogue scales used by the patients showed a general trend toward better (though not statistically evident) improvement with coconut oil than with mineral oil. Safety for both was further demonstrated by negative patch-test results prior to the study and by the absence of adverse reactions during the study.

    Conclusion: Coconut oil is as effective and safe as mineral oil when used as a moisturizer.

    5% petrolatum and 20% glycerin?

  • Pattsi

    Member
    August 24, 2021 at 4:48 am in reply to: Be advised: the continuing creep of EWG/Skin Deep

    I agree with @MarkBroussard and maybe with some pressure form retailers.
    I don’t think this move will affect Pantene or Head and Shoulders, they still dominate parts of the globe where EWG doesn’t matter. Maybe some adjustment in Europe to comply with regulation in the next few years. 

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