Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Typical inclusion rate of Cholecalciferol / D3 in a cream or lotion

  • Typical inclusion rate of Cholecalciferol / D3 in a cream or lotion

    Posted by Graillotion on September 2, 2021 at 3:37 am

    I am considering including Cholecalciferol in a lotion/cream project.  What is the typical inclusion rate?

    Considering that the cosmetic industry…is always in the search of ‘claim’ ingredients, even if they know they don’t work…. Why is Cholecalciferol typically overlooked?  What are the negatives of formulating with it?

    Abdullah replied 2 years, 7 months ago 9 Members · 22 Replies
  • 22 Replies
  • zetein

    Member
    September 2, 2021 at 4:00 am

    It was banned.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    September 2, 2021 at 5:46 am

    zetein said:

    It was banned.

    In the US?  I know it was in the EU.

  • Abdullah

    Member
    September 2, 2021 at 11:06 am

    @zetein why was it banned?
    It is safe to be eaten then why it may not be safe to touch the skin? 

  • Abdullah

    Member
    September 2, 2021 at 11:16 am

    If you add 0.01% Cholecalciferol to an emulsion and apply 2g of that emulsion everyday and your skin absorbed 100% of vitamin D3 from it, you get 8000 IU vitamin D from that emulsion per day. 😃

    Now you calculate the rest of that. 

  • CedarS

    Member
    September 2, 2021 at 5:20 pm

    Now I’m curious as well. We have a customer formulation that uses cholecalciferol. Surely it’s not banned in the US? 

  • Graillotion

    Member
    September 2, 2021 at 6:48 pm

    @Perry, is it still legal to add Cholecalciferol to a cosmetic emulsion in the USA?  I can still find Vitamin D creams on Amazon and such.

  • OldPerry

    Member
    September 2, 2021 at 7:20 pm

    I don’t know for sure but it is a drug active that requires a prescription. So, then it comes down to why are you adding the ingredient. There is no non-drug reason to add it so that would make it illegal.

    That you find creams on Amazon is not surprising. It is difficult for the FDA to keep up on all these different products.

  • zetein

    Member
    September 3, 2021 at 12:30 am
    It’s also one of the most common rodenticides.🐁
  • Pattsi

    Member
    September 3, 2021 at 3:54 am

    L’orealusa, Paula, CeraVe - use it. 
    EU - banned.
    CeraVe Canada use it in their 3% SA lotion and cream - medicinal/non-medicinal LOI but also use it in cleanser with typical LOI.
    So you are probably safe with 0.00000 - 0.00 % inclusion rate.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    October 18, 2021 at 6:40 pm

    Perry said:

    I don’t know for sure but it is a drug active that requires a prescription. So, then it comes down to why are you adding the ingredient. There is no non-drug reason to add it so that would make it illegal.

    That you find creams on Amazon is not surprising. It is difficult for the FDA to keep up on all these different products.

    Where can I find this in print?  To this day I can not find anything definitive, for the US market.

  • OldPerry

    Member
    October 18, 2021 at 10:23 pm

    @Graillotion - Perhaps I’m mistaken. It is simply a supplement so there wouldn’t be any drug restrictions.  

     I found it here and misread the entry.
    https://medlineplus.gov/druginfo/meds/a620058.html

  • Abdullah

    Member
    October 19, 2021 at 1:53 am

    @Pattsi i did search all the website of CeraVe but couldn’t find a product with 3% salicylic acid. Can you mention that product please. 

  • Graillotion

    Member
    October 19, 2021 at 3:06 am

    Abdullah said:

    If you add 0.01% Cholecalciferol to an emulsion and apply 2g of that emulsion everyday and your skin absorbed 100% of vitamin D3 from it, you get 8000 IU vitamin D from that emulsion per day. 😃

    Now you calculate the rest of that. 

    I assume there are different potencies?  The one I have is:

    Vitamin D3 Cholecalciferol 100,000 ui/gr

    Is that what your calculation was based on?

  • Pharma

    Member
    October 19, 2021 at 7:34 am

    Vitamin D is a partially synthesised and highly active compound which, back in the day, was often not pure but just an ‘activated concoction’ or it was sold in diluted form for easier and more precise measuring. Hence, quality/purity is traditionally expressed in international units instead of grams (1 ug = 40 IE). Yours would be 0.25% pure cholecalciferol.

  • Abdullah

    Member
    October 19, 2021 at 11:15 am

    I calculated based on this (1 IU = 0.025 mcg) if it is 100% vitamin D.

  • Pharma

    Member
    October 19, 2021 at 1:52 pm
    The reason why cholecalciferol can not be a cosmetic ingredient:
    Vitamin A and vitamin D are the only two vitamins which are not
    co-factors in enzymes and/or antioxidants but, in their active forms,
    bind directly to promoters which ‘activate genes’ and produce more
    effect the more you take and don’t level off at the limit given by the
    physiologic concentration of corresponding enzymes.

    Similar to most B vitamins which require activation, vitamin A is
    commonly applied as precursor (retinol or retinyl esters) which, to some
    degree, can be activated by all living cells and organs. Vitamin D in
    its common form cholecalciferol needs to be activated first in the liver
    and then the kidneys in order to become biologically active. This means
    that topically applied vitamin D will not show any topical effects like
    in the case of vitamin A but has to penetrate skin, get assimilated,
    pass through the whole body to become active, and finally exert its
    function systemically (in the whole body). That’s the main reason why
    biologically active vitamin D derivatives are used in topical products.
    To my knowledge, cholecalciferol has no topical effect and those would
    be the ones you need for claims. The instant you claim metabolic
    activation, your product is a drug (or nutrient supplement) because it
    relies on a full body circulation and lacks skin targeting.

  • vitalys

    Member
    October 19, 2021 at 2:20 pm

    @Pharma, Excellent input! Indeed it merely can’t work topically. 

  • Pattsi

    Member
    October 19, 2021 at 3:47 pm
    @Pharma - Thank you for your explanation.

    Pharma said:

    The instant you claim metabolic
    activation, your product is a drug (or nutrient supplement) because it
    relies on a full body circulation and lacks skin targeting.

    Very true, hormonal vitamin effects various tissues.

    for fun reading. @Graillotion
    Vitamin D3 is produced in the skin from 7-dehydrocholesterol by UV irradiation.
    vitamin D def, you can guess what will be the first prescription, yes sun exposure - morning sun 7-8 am or evening sun 4-5 pm for 15-30 min.
    In US, it isn’t banned, L’oreal still use it but EU version they removed it, I’m guessing they use it at super low.

    Perry said:

    That you find creams on Amazon is not surprising. It is difficult for the FDA to keep up on all these different products.

    Very true. Some weird stuffs sell  better than actual OTC.

  • Pharma

    Member
    October 19, 2021 at 4:19 pm

    Pattsi said:

    …Very true. Some weird stuffs sell  better than actual OTC.

    Regarding weird stuff… found THIS a few days ago (after I found out that hydroquinone is banned in South Africa thanks to a ‘personalised’ Youtube proposition… why the heck does Youtube think I’m interested in skin bleaching?).

  • Pattsi

    Member
    October 19, 2021 at 5:22 pm
    lol lots of Thai stuffs and some Chinese.
    I’m familiar with these stuffs tho, they managed to sneak into US.
    Since hydroquinone is hard to get so they go for easier choice Mercury and steroid.
    Skin bleaching is everywhere, you can’t escape. Even Voldemort uses it, i guess.

  • Bill_Toge

    Member
    October 19, 2021 at 5:36 pm
    the European ban is to restrict its usage to medicines only - same story with benzoyl peroxide, tretinoin and hydroquinone
  • Abdullah

    Member
    October 20, 2021 at 1:10 am

    @Pattsi thanks 

    Also mid-day sun produces most vitamin D. 

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