[Paprik]

Not sure if this is gonna help, but I’m using Montanov 202 and it provides matte finish. Love this, coz of my combination skin. 

Other than that, I’m thinking about adding some type of powder to reduce the glossiness? 

[Looking forward to see other’s suggestions on this one ]

[Paprik]

Hi,

looking at your formula, I think you need to reduce low melting point ingredients. Lauryl Laurate - melting point 23-30°C. + Shea and Mango butter. In total, you have 25% of those. Keep those under 10%, to give your product good climate stability. 

I think what you are experiencing is called “Syneresis”. Please check polarity of those waxes. And the oils. Mixing non-polar and polar ingredients usually results in this issue.

Hope that helps  

[Paprik]

It’s really hard to say. Could you share the cream you will be adding those to? The ingredient list, so we can see what’s inside and what they used as pa reservative. 

Where did you get the tretinoin, if I may ask? I’m almost jealous, haha. 
0.025% seems fine for the starts. 2 - 3 times a week and see how you tolerate it. And SUNSCREEN! Otherwise what’s the point, right?  

[Paprik]

@ngarayeva001, yes, you are right! I didn’t even go thru all the list properly.

I’m not even sure, where did he get this ingredient. I’m using Retrieve, which is prescription cream, with 0.05% of Tretinoin. 

[Paprik]

Hi,
so you’re saying you bought a facial cream from a store and you want to add some ingredients in it? 
I would not advise that, especially in this quantity. Imagine, the company creates a preservation system that protects the product for 2 - 3 years. But they usually don’t over-preserve it, to keep the potential irritancy low. If you add some of those actives, it’s basically food source for microorganism. And you are diluting the preservative. This will most likely end up in microorganism grow. 

Hope that makes a bit sense?  

[Paprik]

kot said:

Paprik said:

Hi,
I think it’s just going to add slip into that formula once applied to the skin with water.

Hi, but there is Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, isn’t it slippery when wet?

Hey, sorry, I did not work with this material yet. It probably is, the XG should maybe only enhance it? Just my guess

[Paprik]

Hi,
I think it’s just going to add slip into that formula once applied to the skin with water.

[Paprik]

Hi, 

HEC needs to be hydrated with ALL water available from the formula. 
So, if you will add that to a water and add surfactants after, most of surfactants also contain water, which won’t be available for the HEC.

So, proper method is:
Add water and all surfactants together.
-If you have any essential oil or lipid (which is not recommended, maximum 1% and it’s just for marketing), you need to solubilise it first and add to surfactants phase. 
Once everything is mixed, you can add your HEC. This way, all the available water will be there and HEC will grab all of it. Disperse properly.
Alkalize it to pH > 7, let it “swell”, once ready, you can adjust pH to desired/requested value. 

Hope that helps.

[Paprik]

For a creamy face wash that will foam, prepare a nice thick stable emulsion (use high inputs, excess if you will, of high HLB non-ionic emulsifier), use minimum amount of oils (keep it under 3% mostly for marketing) and swap some water with cocamidopropyl betaine. 

Hope this helps.

[Paprik]

If I can add .. what’s the final pH? 
Keep it around 3.5 for best results.
How fast does it turn pale yellow [in days]?

I keep my serum in bathroom and am making a new one every 2 - 3 weeks. Going to fridge for it everytime would be super annoying.  

Also, in my opinion, you don’t have enough solubiliser. You have 1% Polysorbate 80 for 1% Tocopherol. Although, I’ve never worked with that material, so can’t tell for sure. 
Method is crucial, do you solubilize the Toco properly before adding into water? Does it go clear before each adding? 

And curiosity question: Do you like it with the Xanthan Gum? I’m thickening it up with a bit of HA to get the slip. Probably depending on what grade of XG you’re using, but it may feel sticky? 

[Paprik]

Hello,

you would need to include your formula, so we can see what could go wrong.
Carbomers are usually electrolyte sensitive, so if you tried to thicken the product with salt (due to SLES) it could be the cause. 
As amitvedakar mentioned, Sepimax zen is electrolyte resistant, so this could help you. 

Let us know! Hope this helps

[Paprik]

Regarding the preservative - I’ve heard that methylparaben is fungicidal, however in creams and lotion can be broad spectrum.  
I think the easiest one to work with is Liquid Germall Plus. Affordable, effective and almost fool prove. 

[Paprik]

Hi,

what else are you using as preservative? What else is in the formula?

EU limit for benzyl alcohol is 1% max. 
We can’t really tell you, for example, that 0.78% or 0.48% would be enough. PET would need to be conducted. 
If it’s homemade, I would stick to the upper limit, however benzyl alcohol wouldn’t be sufficient as the only preservative. In other words, it’s not a broad spectrum preservative. 

Hope that helps.

[Paprik]

Hi,
how much of the olive oil are you using? 
Do you realize there is NO benefit other than claims? And it can destabilize your product or mess with the effectiveness? 

Use the olive oil in 0.01% just so you can claim it’s there and solubilize the fragrance in the superfatting agent. This won’t affect the stability, nor performance. It will only help it.

If you could also post full formula, that would help. 

[Paprik]

elham said:

Microformulation said:

If you post the Formulation with percentages, you will get better answers. I would guess it is likely an issue with the Niacinamide and you should research this issue closer. However, without percentages this is simply a guess.

glycerin  2%

tea tree oil 0.05%

niacinamide 0.5%

peg-7glycerl cocoate 2%

cocoamphoasetate 2.5%

preservative phenoxy ethanol 0.2%

That is not the whole formula. This is only 7.25% in total. Is the rest water? 
Phenoxyethanol is not a “broad spectrum” preservative. Especially at 0.2%. This product is mostly water with great food sources for microorganism. 
Is the pH 4.7 required for some reason? Consider make it more skin “friendly” and adjust it to around 5.5. 

[Paprik]

What about antioxidant and preservative?
It could also be the tea tree oil. 
Without percentages we can’t really help. Post FULL formula please. 

Have you tried it on someone else? 
Also the pH is little bit too low in my opinion. I would stick to pH close to 5.5-6 due to presence of Niacinamide. 

[Paprik]

@Perry - Sure. Page 59 - conclusion.

https://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/consumer_safety/docs/sccs_o_012.pdf

[Paprik]

SCCS opinion:
Leave-on hair care products up to 1.0%

Leave-on facial cream products:

sum of cetrimonium chloride
and steartrimonium chloride up to 0.5% 

EU:
As preservative : 0.1%.

Hope that helps

[Paprik]

Hi Mel,
the main difference would be the amount of active matter of surfactants. 
Shampoo - typically around 10 - 15%
Body wash - typically around 15 - 20%.
Please remember, this would be the main, but not the only reason. You have many actives that go well into shampoo, but would feel weird on the body skin and vice versa. 

Hope that helps a little  

[Paprik]

Hello,
my thoughts - You are missing an antioxidant. Shea butter, olive oil, sunflower oil, those need antioxidant to prevent any rancidity. It’s also a good practice to include rheology modifier to the formula to improve stability. 
Try to work on that. After that, try to make the cream and see how it feels, what the rub-in time etc. You should conduct stability testing, as you are mixing polar and non-polar lipids.

Hope that helps.

[Paprik]

Hi Alex,
you are basically asking us to make the formula for you. If you need help with formulating, you can talk to some chemist directly and maybe buy some consultation time. 
https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/#/discussion/137/need-formulating-services-here-are-some-contacts
Or try to input your percentages, let’s see if you know what you’re doing and we can help you to check the formula.  

[Paprik]

I would maybe use Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate (Fungicidal). 
Recommended use 0.1-0.3%. pH 2-10.
You can get it from the same supplier - Lonza. Trade name Glyacil L
 

[Paprik]

I hope I can correctly answer those questions for ya
1) I would air dry it in a clean room. If you wipe it, you can introduce debris or other contamination. 
2) I think they would be the same in matter of effectiveness. Ethanol is probably harder to get, because it’s considered drinking alcohol. So isopropanol is better choice, at least for me. 
3) There won’t be any residue. Both ethanol and isopropanol will fully evaporate. 

[Paprik]

Cool, thanks. That it what I’m doing. I have a small washing machine with “baby bottle function” only for my equipment. But I do wash them first manually with hot soaps water. And I’m using isopropyl alcohol afterwards. So I should be fine thanks guys!! 

[Paprik]

Uhm … I don’t? Hehe, I think I need to make my beakers and spoons,etc sterile for making cosmetics. To not contaminate my products. ?