[ozgirl]

Try a different colour and fragrance. Some fragrances and colours are just not stable. Ask your supplier for suggestions based on your ingredients and pH.

The Liquitint dyes are good for laundry detergents.

[ozgirl]

This thread might be of interest.

https://www.chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/6428/percentage-of-active-ingredients

[ozgirl]

I worked on thickening an acidic industrial cleaner and we trialled a POLYOX WSR (can’t remember the number) that worked quite well. It might be worth investigating this option as some grades of the the POLYOX products can be used in cosmetics. 

[ozgirl]

I am not aware of any specific courses/programs for household and industrial cleaners but having a background in chemistry will help.

You can find lots of formulations on the UL Prospector website, Happi Website, suppliers websites and also from books such as Advanced Cleaning Product Formulations (Ernest W Flick).

[ozgirl]

We have used Australian Scientific for our lab supplies. I know they sell IKA stirrers.

Heidolph is also another reputable brand.

Also look for second hand dealers such as Fallsdell and Techtrader for used equipment which is often sold at a fraction of the original price.

[ozgirl]

Try reducing the BTMS to around 4%.

[ozgirl]

I agree with Letsalcido that it is most likely microbial growth. Does it have a bad odour?

Benzalkonium Chloride is not compatible with anionic surfactants like SLES and sodium benzoate is not active at slightly alkaline pH like is used in most dishwashing liquids.

What is the pH of your product?

[ozgirl]

Glucotain Sense is described by Clariant as a sensory additive (see below).

“This powerful sensory additive adds a deep caring after feel to your rinse-off formulation. GlucoTain® Sense is a mild surfactant with refatting effects it is non-tropical sourced, based on sunflower oil and sugar.”

I would try reducing the Glucotain Sense as this is most likely causing the issue.

If you provide your full formulation you will possibly get some more suggestions.

[ozgirl]

I would recommend contacting a fragrance manufacturer rather than a reseller especially if you are looking for bulk quantities (>10 Litres).

5% usage rate for a fragrance seems extremely high. A good quality fragrance is generally used at <1%.

[ozgirl]

I would look into the sunscreen regulations for your country first before you even start thinking about formulas. As others have mentioned it can be a very expensive process.

[ozgirl]

What don’t you like about your current bar? It is much easier to make suggestions if you have an issue with your current formulation (e.g. too drying, not enough foam etc).

[ozgirl]

You have two options with body butters

1. You can create them as a blend of oils and butters (you could just remove water from your formulation and adjust the proportion of oils/butter). These can often be greasy feeling depending on the combination of oils and butters.

or

2.You can create an emulsion in which case you will need an emulsifier. Most DIY suppliers have a version of Emulsifying wax that would probably be suitable but you would need to reduce your oil phase.

[ozgirl]

Creating cosmetic products is all about trying something and then testing it to see if it meets your expectations. So try that blend of oils and if you like it great if not adjust it and try again (and again). 

Grapeseed oil has a relatively low shelf life so you would probably be best to avoid this oil unless you are making small batches for personal use only. 

Start at much lower percentages for your essential oils and increase if necessary as these both have a very strong scent. 

[ozgirl]

We have used the BASF version of this emulsifier (Emulgade PL68/50 - Cetearyl Glucoside and Cetearyl Alcohol) in a face cream for many years with no reported eye irritation.

Are you using emollients/oils/esters with a high spreading rate that are allowing the cream to migrate into the eye.

[ozgirl]

You will need to provide more information such as your location and if you are looking for small (DIY) or bulk quantities if you want some suitable responses.

[ozgirl]

There is also the option to change the packaging to opaque bottles.

You can also get clear PET bottles with a UV filter in the plastic to stop dyes fading.

[ozgirl]

Have you tried adding some of the SCS as a fine powder to help with compacting?

[ozgirl]

Never assume they are the same. They most likely are very similar but it is always best to test before making the change. 

INCI does not guarantee the same composition.

[ozgirl]

Benzyl alcohol is part of the preservative system not the emollients. It is most likely part of a blend with dehydroacetic acid.

Behenyl alcohol is said to give a drier / more powdery feeling than cetyl and cetearyl alcohols so if you like the current feeling I probably wouldn’t replace this.

The milk thistle ethyl ester is a silicone replacement that is claimed to offer a “dry touch” so this would be also adding to the overall feel of the lotion.

[ozgirl]

@Shams This may be of interest (https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/cfrsearch.cfm?fr=700.35).

[ozgirl]

The BASF equivalent to Montanov 68 is Emulgade PL68. Emulgade PL68 is always used in combination with a second emulsifier (Usually Emulugin SG - Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate) in the BASF starting formulations.

[ozgirl]

The ingredients list does not comply with labelling requirements as the fragrance is listed as “essential scent”.

It is also likely that they are also in the incorrect order.

[ozgirl]

Sorry I don’t have any experience with glutaraldehyde as a preservative (we used it in chemical toilet sanitation) so I cannot offer any advice there.

There are a few preservatives that are suitable at pH 8 so it is best to talk to your suppliers. Here is some information on preservatives that might be of interest (https://makingskincare.com/preservatives/)

[ozgirl]

This document (https://vietducjsc.vn/upload/cdn/files/Protectol%20GA%2050%20-%20Technical%20Information.pdf) from BASF explains the stability of glutaraldehyde at different pH values. At high pH (~9) the glutaraldehyde degrades rapidly over a couple of months.

You can test the concentration of glutaraldehyde using titrations or via test strips.

I would look for a more suitable preservative.

[ozgirl]

That original document is alarmist and if you look at the list of resources it is no wonder why (EWG!!).  Whilst there is some basis to the inclusion of many of the items on the list  it is certainly not clear what the concern is with each item leaving the reader to assume they all cause cancer / cause burns etc. 

The oxidation products of D’limonene can cause a skin irritation reaction and sensitization (not d’limonene itself). D’limonene was used in high concentrations in many cleaning products mainly by companies trying to become more “natural” as a replacement for petroleum based solvents. There are also concerns about aquatic toxicity which is more of a concern for cleaning products that may bypass water treatment facilities.

Quaternary ammonium compounds used in disinfectants (such as benzalkonium chloride) have been linked to occupational asthma and also have concerns about aquatic toxicity.

The inclusion of dyes, parabens and fragrances is very much alarmist as it does not specify which particular item in these broad categories they take issue with.