Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Help reverse engineering a brilliant face cream

  • Help reverse engineering a brilliant face cream

    Posted by katerinak on June 15, 2020 at 11:23 pm

    Hi all!

    I’m attempting to dupe my favourite moisturiser (just for personal use/to learn). Let me start out by saying I’m going off my high school chemistry knowledge and the huge amount of formulating reading I’ve done but I’m still very much a beginner!

    The ingredients list is as follows:
    Water, shea butter, sweet almond oil, apricot kernel oil, glyceryl oleate citrate, amla berry extract, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, avocado oil, sunflower oil, mango butter, milk thistle ethyl ester, benzyl alcohol, coenzyme Q10, arachidyl glucoside, vitamin e, sodium citrate, lysolecithin, sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, pullulan, dehydroacetic acid, natural fragrance (fig and oriental rose).

    I’m aware that with a list of plant oils and butters so long that they’re probably in quite small amounts except for the shea butter being the second ingredient? The cream feels fairly light on the skin but super nourishing.

    Does anyone have any idea which ingredients are lessening the heaviness?
    I have cetyl and cetearyl alcohols as well as glyceryl stearate, stearic and a few complete emulsifying waxes. Which of these materials would best replace the behenyl/benzyl alcohols?
    The gums at the end look to me like they could be Siligel?

    Any pointers would be greatly appreciated in my quest!


    EVchem replied 4 years ago 3 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • ozgirl

    June 16, 2020 at 12:31 am
    Benzyl alcohol is part of the preservative system not the emollients. It is most likely part of a blend with dehydroacetic acid.
    Behenyl alcohol is said to give a drier / more powdery feeling than cetyl and cetearyl alcohols so if you like the current feeling I probably wouldn’t replace this.
    The milk thistle ethyl ester is a silicone replacement that is claimed to offer a “dry touch” so this would be also adding to the overall feel of the lotion.
  • katerinak

    June 16, 2020 at 12:47 am

    Thanks @ozgirl!

    Should’ve done a teeny bit of research before I excitedly posted such a huge question.

    Looks like they’re using Dermofeel Easymuls (Glyceryl Oleate Citrate) and Montanov 202… Does anyone have any pointers on working with those together?

    Also looks like the preservative is Geogard 221 and they’re using Ecogel.

    I’ve roughed out the percentages but I have no idea how to go about tackling the oil to emulsifier/thickener ratios!

  • katerinak

    June 16, 2020 at 12:49 am

    Also is it just me or are there no humectants?

  • EVchem

    June 16, 2020 at 1:18 pm

    Haven’t used the dermofeel and montanov together but the easymulse data sheet has some good formulation tips

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