ngarayeva001
Forum Replies Created
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Hi @Perry, thank you for your response. Since I have not made such a product before, I would like to know if there is any particular emulsifier that is prefered for this type of system. I chose polyglyceryl 4 oleate because it’s liquid and probably it’s not the best way of choosing an emulsifier (and I don’t have any benchmark commercial product in mind to see what is normally used). I skipped the preservative, because the product is in an airtight container and won’t have any contact with water. I guess it’s better to add a preservative to be safe.
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Is there any reason to use a mix of low and high HLB emulsifiers in this type of system?
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Vitamin C will make your skin senstivie to sun in any form. As most of the active ingredients. I think the only way to deal with it is a very strong and reliable broad spectrum sun screen (both UVA and UVB).
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There are some discussions about pre-biotics in skincare now. Not sure if it’s marketing hype sponsored by pre-biotic ingredients manufacturers, but there are some papers implying that acne are caused by imbalance of “good” and “bad” skin bacteria. I have not seen any relible reseach yet.
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Emollients won’t give you the “whitening” effect. The whitening effect is emulsification. You need an emulsifier to achieve it. Add a liquid emulsifier to your formula and a clear product will become white, once mixed with water.
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It’s ok for personal use, but don’t try to sell it. It’s a patent owned by L’Oreal. And it’s not stable in a long run even with ferulic and vitamin e. LAA serum stays without signs of oxidation for about 7 weeks in the fridge without ferulic and vit e.
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@KingRoland78, I am using this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electric-Overhead-Stirrer-Mixer-Variable-Speed-Stainless-Steel-100W-220V-UK-Ship/292712381330?hash=item4427047b92:g:vC4AAOSwIFRbj4GP
it is more than sufficient for viscous o/w creams. It can mix polymers, silica and other ingredients that don’t work well with a stickblender. And no issues with air bubbles. But I don’t think it’s powerful enough for your product. Try to figure out technical characteristics that you need and search that in ebay.
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I am using oil-soluble retinol liposomes for antiaging effect. Is there a reason why encapsulated retinol should it be water-soluble (I actually thought that even encapsulated version should be oil-soluble as vitamin A is oil-soluble)?
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Aloe does break viscosity of products based on polymers. You don’t have any polymers in your formula, so aloe shouldn’t cause decrease of viscosity for you. Regarding HLB, it would not tell you how much emulsifier to use (you can rely on supplier information for it) but what type of emulsifier. Regarding the calculation, google for a HLB table for oils and emulsifiers. Calculate your total oil phase. That would include oils, butters, tocopherols, fatty alcohols. Your oil phase here is 27.5%. Calculate weigted average of every oil to total oil phase and multiply to the HLB value from the table. You would know what should be hlb of your emulsifier. You need both high and low HLB emulsifiers to mix then to achieve the value u need.
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Oh, it’s a broad topic! Acne have multiple causes: stress, hormones, some cosmetic products, some medications, you name it.. this issue isn’t that well understood as many think.
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Hi there. White streaks are unavoidable when you work with conventional fatty alcohols (cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol etc). You can get rid of it easily by adding silicones (dimethicone, cyclomethicone). Regading problem #1, I suspect that your emulsifier can’t handle your oil phase. Think about it, your oil phase is 22% plus some of your ewax is cetearyl alcohol and you have one emulsifier (ceteareth 20). Assuming that half of that ewax is cetearyl, you are trying to stabilize 27% of oils with 5% of ceteareth 20. You need stronger emulsification system. Calculate HLB of the oil phase to understand what emulsifier you need (probably not one) Other than that your formula looks fine. I would reduce that silk. I bet it doesn’t have a nice smell.
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@Belassi I found a polymer that tolerates aloe relatively well. I remember that you mentioned you prefer conventional rheology modifiers fot lotions but maybe the information is useful for you. ViscOptima SE by Croda. Based on Sodium Polyacrylate. INCI Sodium polyacrylate, ethylhexyl cocoate, PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate, polysorbate 20. I actually found it on makingcosmetics under another brand name. This rheology modifier tolerates aloe and MAP but Sodium PCA destroys it.
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@Dtdang, I personally don’t like aloe, but if you want to use it, get a concentrated powder instead. I have x200 concentration. It means, 0.5 gr in water gives you 100% aloe. You probably don’t want to add more than 0.1gr which would make your product 20% aloe vera. I don’t like it because it’s an electrolyte and decreases viscosity of polymers. Regarding tea tree oil, again I would rather try to so something with salicylic acid insted. It works, it’s cheap, easy to get in most places, causes less irritation than tea tree (if formulated right).
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@Amira, I started this discussion some time :
Give it a read. There is a link to a research paper shared by Perry. It’s long but worth reading. Short summary: all essential oils are either phototoxic (for example orange, lemon) or cytotoxic (they talk about tea tree as an example) or both. They might have some skin (and overall health benefits) but the side effects make it isn’t worth it.
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I have one formula with 70% CAPB of total actives. I tried 80%, but I find that 70% is good enough and foams better (because of decyl glucose that is a foam booster). Tested on 6 people (I understand not many) and it is tear free. You can lather your face and open your eyes. It’s a foaming face wash with total surfactants of 10%, 7 of which CAPB and the remainder is decyl glucoside and coco glucoside.
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Happy Thanksgiving @Dtdang.
Salicylic Acid, Benzoyl Peroxide, and Retinol. However, they all are serious ingredients and require a lot of experience. The product with those ingredients can be classified as OTC drug.
Botanicals do not do anything. Tea tree oil is somewhat effective, but it’s cytotoxic. Which means it kills all cells, not only bacteria causing acne.
If you really want to try, make a light lotion with salicylic acid and a little of niacinamide. Read LOI of Effaclar products by La Roche Posay for some inspiration.
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Castile soap is a soap. It will not be moisturizing, and you can’t make non-drying body wash with it.
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A combination of liquid W/O emulsifiers (sorbitan oleate, Polyglyceryl-4 oleate, glyceryl oleate etc.) and Polysorbates doesn’t need heating.
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@Jdawgswife76, I have this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electric-Overhead-Stirrer-Mixer-Variable-Speed-Stainless-Steel-100W-220V-UK-Ship/292712381330?hash=item4427047b92:g:vC4AAOSwIFRbj4GP
It is very basic, but you don’t need more for small batches (400 gr). The most important thing in it for me, it mixes silica and polymers and doesn’t aerate the product (stick blender can’t mix silica into your product without lumps and introduces too much air). You can make batches between 100 and 400 gr using it It’s good for the price.
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GelMaker EMU, GelMaker RHEO (makingcosmetics), Sepinov EMT, Emulthix, Sepiplus 400, Aristoflex AVC (lotioncrafter). Listed in ascending order from the easiest to most difficult to work with. I personally like Sepinov (can be used in a hot and cold process). RHEO is my new passion. It has amazing thickening properties. All can be used in a cold process.
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@Jdawgswife76 if you are still making test batches get this one BADGER Airbrush Paint Mixer BA121 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000BROV02/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ou69BbKA4W962 I think it’s the best thing for learning. Helps to make tiny batches and not waste expensive materials. But do get this one! Not a frappe maker, it will aerate your product! This little thing can mix sodium carbomer into a ready product. I couldn’t do it witha a stick blender. Once you start making larger batches (to share with friends) go to ebay, and look up for a lab overhead stirrer, 100W or above, 3000 rpm or above, with anchor blade (preferably but not a must).
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@Jdawgswife76, disodium EDTA is actually preferable for products with lower pH (lower than
. Tetrasodium is used for surfactants and when you want to get a clear product. So it only relevant for water based serum. You are trying to make an emuslsion, so disodium is even better. I am not a big fan of emulsifiers with many components (unless it’s a polymer), so I have cetearyl alcohol and polysorbate 60 separately. The thing is they both are thickeners (poly60 is a high hlb emulsifier but it has thickening properties).Try to play with percentages to see if you can get serum like texture. Don’t use much oil if you use low % of the emulsifier. Mango butter is ok. It is lighter than shea. So it’s about your preferences. -
@Jdawgswife76 what is INCI of the product you are using? It should be some type of protein (amino acids, peptides) to have skin benefits (not really proven) and proteins often have horrible smell. Also proteins compromise viscosity of certain polymers. I recommend you to start a new topic about benefits of silk. Let’s see what professionals think and is there any proof that silk even does anything for skin.
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Guys, CAPB is amphoteric and becomes cationic at ph below 7. SLES is anionic. Could this be a reason?
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Then HLB is not an issue. Any oils in the formula?