ngarayeva001
Forum Replies Created
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Look up forum’s archives. It was discussed many times.
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Pharma said:Never worked with C12-15 alkyl benzoate…
@Pharma I recommend to try it. Very versatile. It’s helps silicones mix with essential oils, it’s very polar which can be handy in some cases, it’s cheap and easily available. It helps mineral oil mixing with Cithrol 10gtis. And probably many other things that I am not even aware of.
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Alkyl Benzoate is more ‘oily’. It’s one of the heaviest esters. Probably octyldodecanol will be closer. May I ask what is it that you like about isoamyl laurate? I wasn’t impressed by it at all.
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Perry said:The outer layer of skin is dead. It does not breath any more than a pair of leather gloves. No, you can’t suffocate skin.
I’ve not seen any evidence that women’s skin ages faster. This sounds like a marketing story that helps convince women to buy more products.
Perry, collagen in men’s skin intersects and men’s skin is thicker. I would think that thicker pair of gloves should last longer but it’s just a guess.
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You have a bunch of oils, esters and hydrocarbons with different polarity and Polysorbates as primary emulsifiers at not sufficient concentration. I bet they sink on the bottom. These type of products aren’t easy to make. Keep it simple: C12-15 alkyl benzoate 85%, Polysorbate 80 15%. Also works with CCT and octyldodecanol. You need high polarity esters to make Polysorbates do the job in such a formula.
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Have you tried good old crothix?
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@em88 there’s a couple of tricks: if you don’t need more than 10% go for water in oil. Then pH doesn’t matter. If you need it be be oil and water and or at high concentration, keep pH at 6, add lactic acid buffer and predissolve urea in propylene glycol (60c). Arlacel 165 is a good choice of an emulsifier.
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Usually no.
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There are leave on peels with 10% lactic or glycolic acid. I have not checked pH of those drug store peels but I use 10% glycolic with pH 3.3-3.4 overnight and my face hasn’t fallen off yet
not every day. -
I posted a lot on the second topic, so definitely read archives
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I used the one with glyoxylic which allegedly releases formaldehyde when heated over 200c. It smells horrendous (when straightened) but it works. Not as strong as professional version but I can live with it.
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There’s no way behentrimonium chloride fully melts at 75c. It needs 85C according to suppliers and around 95c as per my personal experience.
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I suggest that you rely on FDA or equivalent professional bodies around the globe, not EWG. Their ratings aren’t based on science. Moreover they are utterly inconsistent.
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Graillotion said:You didn’t give much to go by….but what about sodium metabisulfite or Sodium thiosulfate…and that whole family of similars?
I use that in a really tough formula.
I also use TEC…which can go in either phase. (Not smart enough to know which phase it works in though…hehehe.)
Agree. The first thought I had was about sodium metabisulfite. I used it in a formula with hydroquinone which is very hard to stop from oxidizing.
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If recreating a product by looking at the list of ingredients was that easy anyone would be able to do it. The thing is without a good formulator you can’t do it.
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Any reason why you aren’t using SLS? By the way Lush is using SLS mostly.
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Post a formula, it’s impossible to say anything without details
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Pond’s cold cream is used as a makeup remover. W/o wouldn’t make a decent makeup remover, you can’t rinse off the residue after removing make up with a cotton pad easily.
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@zetein, alluminium starch is near colorants, it’s probably at a negligible amount as part of some blend.
regarding cold cream, it’s not w/o. Don’t be deceived by mineral oil as first ingredient. It’s very difficult to create stable w/o with significant oil phase. When you need to pack 40-50% oil in a product o/w is your best bet.
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Graillotion said:DaveStone said:What are the scientifically supported anti-aging ingredients (if there are any)?
Genetics.
Guys, you are underestimating tretinoin.
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@Perry, I can answer the third question with a usual caveat: depends against what. If it’s to profect against a sunburn, then no, because glass blocks UVB. If against tanning, 100% yes, you must wear sunscreen indoors. I live in the UK and work from home. My busy season (at my day job) falls on summer, which means I barely leave my apartment in summer (uv index in the uk in winter is zero). My hands are different color because one hand is covered by my laptop. The hand that moves the mouse is darker. Moreover, I have an small age spot on it. I sit in front of the window and apply sunscreen on my face indoors, but I can’t bother applying it on my hands.
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Dow Formulation aid 5225 is very forgiving. Es 5600 isn’t bad either. From so called natural isolan gps and emullium illustro by gattefosse. But the latter isn’t sold by repackagers.
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You don’t need waterphase stabilisers in w/o (unless it’s some sort of unusual technique like Seppic’s geltrap) so remove xanthan. Not enough salt, up to 1%. Also try processing it differently, heat to the melting point of your ingredients (plus 10c just in case), put it under overhead stirrer and add water by droplets, making sure they aren’t floating on the top of oil phase. After all water is added cool it down below 50c and only then emulsify. I would also add additional emulsifier. It should thicken as you emulsify.
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Abdullah said:For me only 6% shea butter is more than what i want on my skin. How do you guys like such high amount of oil face?
Everyone’s skin is different. Mine is dry and I can use cold cream as a moisturizer in winter. In summer I prefer not more than 16-18% of total oil phase. I also use retinoids (either prescription tretinoin or high levels of retinol) so my skin absorbs those seemingly heavy creams as a sponge.
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The weird exception from this rule is ‘mysterious’ polymer with the same INCI as ultrez 21 from makingcosmetics called GelMaker Powder. I have no idea what that is because they don’t disclose trade names but it’s definitely not ultrez 21. That one forms a lump that looks like a piece of plastic if heated.