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Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating What would be a comparable substitute for Isoamyl laurate?

  • What would be a comparable substitute for Isoamyl laurate?

    Posted by abierose on October 18, 2021 at 5:38 pm

    I have quite a few other esters, some of which are new to me and I haven’t tried them yet….but I am out of IL so I thought I’d ask if any of the following could be used instead and if so what to expect as far as textural and viscosity changes:

    Isostearyl Isostearate 
    Octyldodecanol 
    Isononyl Isononanoate 
    Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
    C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
    Coco-Caprilate/Caprate 

    I would like to use something that will feel similar to IL if possible or if I’m better off to just order some more IL.

    Thank you!

    abierose replied 1 year, 3 months ago 5 Members · 8 Replies
  • 8 Replies
  • Pharma

    Member
    October 18, 2021 at 6:57 pm
    Never worked with C12-15 alkyl benzoate… it should be quite similar.
    Coco-caprylate/caprate is fairly similar (not similar enough for my taste), has a viscosity, spreading etc in the same range. Not quite as ‘good’ as IL and hence, I like IL more. It feels less greasy and comes with the perk of a short branched side chain.
    The others all have higher viscosities, lower spreading, penetrate/dry not as fast, and are less polar. Even coco-caprylate/caprate isn’t really polar compared to IL and alkyl benzoates.
    I would guess, from a theoretical musing, that a blend of C12-15 alkyl benzoate and coco-caprylate/caprate would come closest to IL.
    Becaue I have more coco caprylate than IL in stock and the former is less expensive too, I use it as an IL substitute during trial formulations (notably, coco caprylate has a lower viscosity and higher spreading than coco caprylate/caprate and hence comes even closer to IL… nonetheless, I can still feel a difference).
  • abierose

    Member
    October 18, 2021 at 11:21 pm

    Pharma said:

    Never worked with C12-15 alkyl benzoate… it should be quite similar.
    Coco-caprylate/caprate is fairly similar (not similar enough for my taste), has a viscosity, spreading etc in the same range. Not quite as ‘good’ as IL and hence, I like IL more. It feels less greasy and comes with the perk of a short branched side chain.
    The others all have higher viscosities, lower spreading, penetrate/dry not as fast, and are less polar. Even coco-caprylate/caprate isn’t really polar compared to IL and alkyl benzoates.
    I would guess, from a theoretical musing, that a blend of C12-15 alkyl benzoate and coco-caprylate/caprate would come closest to IL.
    Becaue I have more coco caprylate than IL in stock and the former is less expensive too, I use it as an IL substitute during trial formulations (notably, coco caprylate has a lower viscosity and higher spreading than coco caprylate/caprate and hence comes even closer to IL… nonetheless, I can still feel a difference).

    Thank you so much!! I will try subbing out the IL for a blend of Coco Caprylate/Caprate and C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate and see how much of a difference it makes 😀 I appreciate your knowledge!!

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    October 21, 2021 at 2:02 am

    Alkyl Benzoate is more ‘oily’. It’s one of the heaviest esters. Probably octyldodecanol will be closer. May I ask what is it that you like about isoamyl laurate? I wasn’t impressed by it at all.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    October 21, 2021 at 2:10 am

    Pharma said:

    Never worked with C12-15 alkyl benzoate… 

    @Pharma I recommend to try it. Very versatile. It’s helps silicones mix with essential oils, it’s very polar which can be handy in some cases, it’s cheap and easily available. It helps mineral oil mixing with Cithrol 10gtis. And probably many other things that I am not even aware of.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    October 21, 2021 at 5:45 am

    ngarayeva001  May I ask what is it that you like about isoamyl laurate? I wasn’t impressed by it at all.

    Did you try the 100% IL….or the one that is 90% IL…and 10% something else….forget the name at the moment…. But I HATED that 90/10 blend.

    Hehehe…I can’t live without my IL…. and I have them all.

  • abierose

    Member
    October 21, 2021 at 6:55 pm

    ngarayeva001  May I ask what is it that you like about isoamyl laurate? I wasn’t impressed by it at all.

    Did you try the 100% IL….or the one that is 90% IL…and 10% something else….forget the name at the moment…. But I HATED that 90/10 blend.

    Hehehe…I can’t live without my IL…. and I have them all.

    I am totally in love with it too…I’m just gonna end up ordering some more since I also just ran out of another new-to-me favorite ingredient…pentylene glycol 😁

    @ngarayeva001 I will try subbing the octyldodecanol and see if the feel is similar enough.

  • Anca_Formulator

    Member
    October 22, 2021 at 1:08 am

    I don’t know which one would be a good substitute without testing the skin feel. When I substitute esters I test the spreadability, volatility, greasiness, absorbtion rate and play time. I also try to match the specific gravity as closely as possible. 

  • Graillotion

    Member
    October 22, 2021 at 2:00 am

    abierose said:

    I’m just gonna end up ordering some more since I also just ran out of another new-to-me favorite ingredient…pentylene glycol 😁

    Isn’t Pentylene magical?  Splish splash!

  • abierose

    Member
    October 22, 2021 at 3:44 am

    abierose said:

    I’m just gonna end up ordering some more since I also just ran out of another new-to-me favorite ingredient…pentylene glycol 😁

    Isn’t Pentylene magical?  Splish splash!

    It really is!!